I believe you shoot manual. How do you manage with changes of light/weather.
Yep, I like to shoot in manual mode as far as possible. I think I'm a bit of a control freak in that regard
I will generally take a base reading with my lightmeter, take a quick test shot and chimp the histogram. If need be I'll tweak the exposure slightly to make sure the histogram is nicely exposed to the right without clipping the main highlights.
For most action sports I will try to shoot at at least 1/1000s with the lens wide open - so I will choose the lowest ISO that gives me this reading.
If I'm shooting in the daytime and part of the playing area is in shade, I will repeat the process for the shaded area and keep that reading in mind. I will then change the exposure on the fly - there may be a two stop difference, so I may shoot at 1/4000s f/2.8 in the bright area and at 1/1000s f/2.8 in the shaded area.
I try to avoid the automatic modes as my experiences in Av, Tv and P have generally been disappointing. The problems arise with teams wearing different colour shirts (including nasty white ones ), the advertising hoardings around the ground, variable amounts of sky in the images, etc. I find that no matter what metering pattern I set up, the camera will always under or over-expose the best picture of the day and I don't have the patience with Photoshop to salvage the image!
If the light is constantly changing (e.g.. fast moving clouds on a windy day with the sun coming in and out unpredictably) then I will resort to Av mode, keeping the lens wide open and choosing an ISO to keep the shutter speed high enough when the sun is behind clouds. I will always be aiming to go back into manual exposure if the lighting settles down.
The other way I cope with this situation is to shoot into the sun. In these circumstances, the exposure when the sun is out and when the sun goes in is very similar. I will be overexposing by, say, two stops when the sun is out... then the sun goes in and the same exposure could well still apply. This puts me back into my 'comfort zone' and enables me to shoot manually again.
Shooting into the sun has other benefits as well - e.g. beautiful rim-lighting - but it's not for the faint-hearted
If the light is simply dwindling, then I will habitually take meter readings as I go along, and dial up the ISO as the light fades. This is where the grass comes in handy - once I've got my base reading with the handheld meter, I can relate this to the grass so I simply fill the frame with grass and use that for the exposure setting.
Grass varies from pitch to pitch At some grounds the grass will act as a perfect 18% grey card, at others I may need to be anywhere between +1/3 and +1 stop over the reading from the turf. For artificial pitches (e.g. hockey), the difference may be a little higher than that.
For indoor sports, the situation is a lot easier - and manual exposure is certainly the way to go. I'm sure we'll touch on that subject again later on.
Hmmmm. Hope that's the kind of answer you were looking for! I'm sure I'll think of some more info at a later date!