Multicoating required for 10-stop ND's?

Right now I'm looking at the B+W 3.0 ND filters. There's quite a price difference between the MRC model and the non-MRC model. I'd probably be using this filter often stacked under a CPL. Is MRC very important for ND filters? I hear a lot of buzz about having to buy multi-coated filters if you want to use a protection filter, but I'm not sure if it's just as important for ND filters? And does anyone else have any (not so expensive but not crap) recommendations for screw in 10-stop ND filters?

I'm not sure if there is a $60.00 difference between MRC coated ND filter and one that is not? I use the one that is not multicoated and I never had any flair issues even shooting directly into the sun. Have a look at my flickr and look at the sunsets.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

A non-multicoated generally will pass only about 93% of the light, whereas a super-multicoated (the B+W MRC) will pass 99+%. Buy no less than a 97% passing filter (e.g. Hoya HMC, Hoya Pro1 Digital)

Wilt wrote in post #14232450
A non-multicoated generally will pass only about 93% of the light, whereas a super-multicoated (the B+W MRC) will pass 99+%. Buy no less than a 97% passing filter (e.g. Hoya HMC, Hoya Pro1 Digital)

But isn't the whole point of a ND filter to block out light? I think the question is whether the MRC adds anything in terms of blocking on a consistent basis.

wunhang wrote in post #14232529
But isn't the whole point of a ND filter to block out light? I think the question is whether the MRC adds anything in terms of blocking on a consistent basis.

'Reducing the amount of light for exposure' is very distinctly different than 'bouncing around 7% of the light as contrast-reducing flare'!

I would pay for the ability to do the first; no one could PAY ME enough money to do the second to myself.

No, MRC is not required. It wasn't even available until fairly recently. I don't recall anybody complaining about its absence.

As Frank says, it's not. With a 10-stop ND, the filter proper serves to control propagation of internal reflections, since every light ray that's reflected internally is attenuated by at least 10 more stops as it passes through the filter for the second, third, etc. time.

Jon wrote in post #14235809
As Frank says, it's not. With a 10-stop ND, the filter proper serves to control propagation of internal reflections, since every light ray that's reflected internally is attenuated by at least 10 more stops as it passes through the filter for the second, third, etc. time.

Good explanation for why 'it does not matter'!

Yea, I have noticed its pretty rare anyone uses a multi-coated filter when working with 6-stops or more. The 3-stop ND filters seem to go either way.

That extra $80 or so dollars can go to another filter now thanks to you guys!


P.S. BTW! Is it possible to adjust a circular polarizer with a 10stop ND under it? Like with live view or something?

edmyloo wrote in post #14238031
That extra $80 or so dollars can go to another filter now thanks to you guys!


P.S. BTW! Is it possible to adjust a circular polarizer with a 10stop ND under it? Like with live view or something?

Well, you probably wont see anything through the viewfinder as now youre talking around 12 stops of light. Not sure how liveview would perform, but AF might not work either.

ben_r_ wrote in post #14241865
Well, you probably wont see anything through the viewfinder as now youre talking around 12 stops of light. Not sure how liveview would perform, but AF might not work either.

Oh I'd definitely be manual focusing, but if I can't see anything, I can't even do that. x.x I guess this might be a reason why people buy Lee setups, but their filters aren't exactly cheap.

edmyloo wrote in post #14242766
Oh I'd definitely be manual focusing, but if I can't see anything, I can't even do that. x.x I guess this might be a reason why people buy Lee setups, but their filters aren't exactly cheap.

Nope, not at all. Youd have to focus and compose the shot with no filters on, then put the CPL on and set that, then try to screw the ND filter on without rotating the CPL I guess?

Singh-Ray filters aren't even available coated, much less multicoated, and Singh-Ray filters are generally very well regarded.

ben_r_ wrote in post #14243259
Nope, not at all. Youd have to focus and compose the shot with no filters on, then put the CPL on and set that, then try to screw the ND filter on without rotating the CPL I guess?

Boy does that sound like a PITA.

Indecent Exposure wrote in post #14243448
Singh-Ray filters aren't even available coated, much less multicoated, and Singh-Ray filters are generally very well regarded.

Do you think something like a Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo would be better than a seperate CPL and ND combo? I want the ND to be dark enough to blur the people out of photos in daylight.