Cutting Competition

I tried my first Cutting Competition and the lighting was really challenging. The event was in a covered arena but the ambient light was really bright coming in and the internal light was much darker. I didn't have a flash with me and was shooting with my 70-200 f4 IS. Not very happy with the soft focus (photographer error) so need to keep working on that. Please feel free to C&C.

That looks like motion blur more than missed focus. EXIF says 1/200th, which is too slow to freeze the action. Shoot for 1/500th or more, which will require bumping ISO quite a bit.

Indoor equestrian arenas are a nightmare. I think you did fine.

Thanks Rainyday. I still need to get a handle on sharp focus. It wasn't the lens. I was also afraid of boosting the ISO too high to compensate for the lighting.

Almondsaz wrote in post #14231449
Thanks Rainyday. I still need to get a handle on sharp focus. It wasn't the lens. I was also afraid of boosting the ISO too high to compensate for the lighting.

Again, it's probably motion blur softening the subjects, not focus. Don't be afraid to boost the ISO. The 60D should be able to handle ISOs as high as 3200 and look fine with a little noise reduction. A slightly noisy, but sharp action shot is much better than a blurry soft one. When shooting higher ISO, it's best to slightly overexpose the shot, since noise is more noticeable in the darks and shadows.

abruckse: thank you, I incorrectly have thought that I should stay not greater than ISO 800 - I will shoot higher ISO next time I have a similar situation.

If I am not using strobes at alot of arenas 1600iso or 3200 is a must. and that is with me 70-200 2.8. For cutting I use my 85 1.8 alot and get between the judges. I have some shots from the NCHA super stakes when I was up there last week that came out well, but that arena is pretty well lit. But the photog that was there still had 9 strobes setup. From the performance side, it is a good shot horse is cutting back with the cow and locked on. Don't be afraid to crank up the ISO, a little noise is better than motion blur in my opinion. What arena was that at?

It was the Horseshoe park in Queencreek

ok, I thought it was the walls and the area code made me think it was there. Hopefully I will show out there next year

What level do you compete at? I was really impressed with how incredible all the horses were and how friendly everyone was. I didn't have boots on and was still allowed to go down into the arena

I show in the nrcha, srcha, and shot as a limited non pro

Here are just a couple more that I liked.

Although it would be tough to pull off, some slow shutter speed panning might make for some interesting shots since you're forced to shoot slow anyway. Maybe putting the focus point on the horse. Just trying to think outside the box.

So many thoughts here and only a few minutes.

You shot these, at least the first one, at 1/200th which is no where near fast enough for cutting. You have to be at least at 1/500th for cutting, even faster would be better. Not only is your first shot not fast enough shutter speed, it is underexposed. You've lost shadow detail on the horse. (Look at the horse's neck and belly)

So, yes, as the other poster's pointed out this is subject motion not missed focus.

Up the ISO. There is no way I could ever shoot an indoor show at ISO 800. Or even 1600. I am almost always at 3200. Sometimes, 6400.

Which means, unfortunately, your F/4 lens is not going to be fast enough. You are probably looking at a fast prime if you want to continue to shoot NCHA or other indoor horse events.

You had mentioned the bright ambient light coming in and it is good that you picked up on this. Open overhead doors or windows with throw your exposure off every time if you use your in-camera meter. I always use a hand held incident meter to get my exposure and set it and leave it. Failing using a hand held meter, do some test shots and get a proper exposure and use that. If you use your camera in one of the program modes every time a horse runs in front of one of those doors it is going to get fooled and give you and underexposed shot. DO NOT USE THE HISTOGRAM. That is going to show you the overhead door as blinkies. You want the doors to be blown out.

If you are not already familiar with one, you are going to have to become very intimate with a noise reduction program.

HTH

Matonanjin: great information. Thank you I really appreciate the comments. My only faster lens is a 60 @ 2.8. I will have to look into a used 70-200 2.8. The next round is in October so I have a little time to practice. For noise reduction I have been looking at NIK. Any recommendations?