How to use your flash properly

It has been annoying me forever that using the Canon system has been so hit and miss for reliably getting a flash photo of the exact exposure time after time.

For example something in the foreground of great contrast throwing off the exposure when you thought ETTL-II was meant to use distance data to determine the flash output.

WELL...it does but only if you (tested using the 7D) focus with the central focusing point or you FEL (which also meters about the central focus spot) AND hold the exposure lock to maintain this flash setting, you now have the flash output set appropriately for the distance to chosen subject and you can compose to your artistic hearts content and as long as you have the exposure locked BINGO the subject is consistently exposed between shots.

It could be that the camera is spot metering this focus point because I did have to dial in Exp Comp to get bright whites, but it works

I will have to look to see if the 7D and the 5D can be asked to meter at different focusing spots, but I thought I better tell what I have discovered by experimenting and have unfortunately not read/absorbed this info elsewhere.

Anyone else found other secrets for getting consistent flash shots?

Try switching your E-TTL metering mode to Average, rather than Evaluative (default). It's buried in the camera custom functions.

It's not always the best choice, but in my experience the results are more predictable indoors with a relatively close background.

Curtis N wrote in post #14256558
Try switching your E-TTL metering mode to Average, rather than Evaluative (default). It's buried in the camera custom functions.

It's not always the best choice, but in my experience the results are more predictable indoors with a relatively close background.

This is different:

I had picked up knowledge that when you FEL pre flash the meter reading is partial mode.
ans I had also picked up that the selected focus points had a bias to allow the camera/flash to decide on output settings.
Also..
I had discovered that using FEL gave different results to any auto-flash point and shoot.

But I have just realised that FEL only works on the centre focus spot and by implication and experiment, if you take the focus lock with the centre spot it appears that the distance to subject is used to calculate the flash output.

If you use a different focus point to the centre point, then everything becomes hit and miss again with high contrast scenes, because you are now relying on the reflected flash light/camera metering algorithms to try to work out the best flash output.
Which will be messed up if there is a large white foreground,for instance at a wedding reception.

The Nikon system is reknowned for using distance data from the lense focusing to get the best flash output and I have been thinking why does is m ysimilarly expensive Canon gear not replicate this ability.

I suppose the 1d's probably can partial meter at lots of it's focus points(I dont know for sure) but the 7D and I expect the 5DII is also limited to the central focus point for acquiring distance data for flash calculations.

If the subject distance can be extracted from EXIF info then it can be used as the primary calcualtion for flash output as in the olden days.

Flash Exposure Lock uses the partial/spot metering circle in the center of the viewfinder. It doesn't matter which focus point you use.

Hey, if you want to analyze Evaluative E-TTL metering, be my guest. I find that it does a pretty decent job with outdoor fill flash.

The problem with using distance data is it's only useful for direct, undiffused, hotshoe-mounted flash. If you're bouncing or diffusing the light in any way, or using the Canon Wireless Flash System, then you're throwing in variables that make distance calculations pointless.

john5189 wrote in post #14254575
Anyone else found other secrets for getting consistent flash shots?

Using manual mode...

jackerin wrote in post #14258569
Using manual mode...

That's reliable and easy when the flash and subject are not moving, but if you have only moments to get that shot, then you get into my area of complaint.

Set up multiple flashes around the room and shoot away. Sometimes you may not be equipped to get the shot you're think of.

When I want to run 8 seconds in the 1/4 mile drag race, I look at my 1987 Chevy Cavalier and think, "What am I doing wrong here?"

Welcome to world of ETTL. Shoot - chimp - adjust - repeat. I stopped trying to figure it out eons ago. I just accept it and work around it. People that shoot regularly have learned to predict how it will react depending on environment, adjust the FEC before hand and be closer to the mark. If I can always always choose manual first.