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Thread started 13 Apr 2012 (Friday) 06:06
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DavidWatts
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Apr 21, 2012 00:16 |  #31

whiteflyer wrote in post #14299256 (external link)
You can use the HDR tool on just a single images, you don't need a set of bracketed images.

Ahhh, thanks, I never expected that. I re-read the manual, and it does say that, by golly (page 81). I tried it, and it appears about the only usefulness of this is to pull out some additional details from the shadows - but very sparingly or it gets garish as most HDR's can become.

One thing that's not clear to me yet, and maybe some of you who've been playing with DLO for a bit longer than my one day of non-experience is this question...

With regard to DLO and Lens Abberation Correction, can one use both features in any order? Or should one perform one function before the other? From the manual, they don't delve into any interactions between the two features, but they each perform different corrections to the images.


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Apr 21, 2012 05:06 |  #32

DavidWatts wrote in post #14301814 (external link)
One thing that's not clear to me yet, and maybe some of you who've been playing with DLO for a bit longer than my one day of non-experience is this question...

With regard to DLO and Lens Abberation Correction, can one use both features in any order? Or should one perform one function before the other? From the manual, they don't delve into any interactions between the two features, but they each perform different corrections to the images.

Normally the order in which you move sliders, etc. in any Raw converter doesn't matter because the workflow of the real processing is internal and fixed and isn't done until you hit Convert and Save. But DLO breaks the mold; it is real processing that is carried out immediately, is irreversible and does not merely change the metadata - apparently a whole new set of Raw image data is created. Moreover, it can fundamentally change the appearance of the image. For this reason I'd say to do it first, before any other editing, especially editing whose strength you are determining visually.


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Broadway53
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Apr 21, 2012 11:19 |  #33

You can download the new version from Canon Canada and it works great. The HDR function is pretty good (for free) but won't replace Photomatix - I processed an HDR using both programs and Canon comes in second. On the other hand - the Digital Lens Optimizer is fabulous. Copy a RAW picture and process one with DLO. Convert both to JPG and enlarge to 100% - a very noticeable difference! I also noted that the file is much larger - my RAW image from a 7D with 17-55mm lens went from 25 to 49mb after processing with DLO. Don't understand why but the IQ is much better.


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EdKiefer
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Apr 21, 2012 12:15 as a reply to  @ Broadway53's post |  #34

those that do use multiple shot (-1, 0, 1+ ) for example do you edit at all each of the three shots prior to HDR or do it afterwards .
I shoot in natural profile (canon XSI) so there on flat side out of camera .

Also I assume the wider your bracketed shot exposures the more cartoonish/fake looking to can extract out of 3 HDR .




  
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tonylong
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Apr 21, 2012 13:50 |  #35

Broadway53 wrote in post #14303354 (external link)
You can download the new version from Canon Canada and it works great. The HDR function is pretty good (for free) but won't replace Photomatix - I processed an HDR using both programs and Canon comes in second. On the other hand - the Digital Lens Optimizer is fabulous. Copy a RAW picture and process one with DLO. Convert both to JPG and enlarge to 100% - a very noticeable difference! I also noted that the file is much larger - my RAW image from a 7D with 17-55mm lens went from 25 to 49mb after processing with DLO. Don't understand why but the IQ is much better.

Interesting, I've tried the DLO but haven't seen results that jumped out at me. What setting did you use?

EdKiefer wrote in post #14303609 (external link)
those that do use multiple shot (-1, 0, 1+ ) for example do you edit at all each of the three shots prior to HDR or do it afterwards .
I shoot in natural profile (canon XSI) so there on flat side out of camera .

Also I assume the wider your bracketed shot exposures the more cartoonish/fake looking to can extract out of 3 HDR .

The output of the HDR is a jpeg or a tiff, so I't get the most out of the Raw files as you can then use a 16 bit tiff for processing the result. I find that the HDR merge tends to kee the highlights too bright.

The blending seems to ignore your picture style, although I'm not sure of that. At any rate by default it uses a "Natural" Preset which to my eye seems pretty close to a Neutral PS. You can, though, "tweak" the image with different things before saving the result. They do offer different "Art" presets that give that "goofy" look. But one interesting control you can mess with is the "Digital Enhancement" control -- it has quite an effect.

Also, when messing with the HDR window before Saving, I'd Max the window to view the shot full screen.


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Maxdave
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Apr 21, 2012 13:54 |  #36

But can't you remove the DLO data by loading the modified RAW file, going to the DLO tab, clicking Tune, and unclicking the set button (page 72 in the Manual):

"The [Setting} checkbox will be checkmarked if the image has the Digital lens optimizer already applied. Remove the checkmark and click the [Save] button to cancel the Digital Lens Optimizer."

When I do this the DLO changes seem to be removed ... in my test:

My original RAW was 20,453 bytes. After having DLO applied the size increased to 40,881. When I followed the removal procedure above, it went back to 20,457 (I can't explain where the extra 4 came from).

Maxdave

tzalman wrote in post #14302313 (external link)
Normally the order in which you move sliders, etc. in any Raw converter doesn't matter because the workflow of the real processing is internal and fixed and isn't done until you hit Convert and Save. But DLO breaks the mold; it is real processing that is carried out immediately, is irreversible and does not merely change the metadata - apparently a whole new set of Raw image data is created. Moreover, it can fundamentally change the appearance of the image. For this reason I'd say to do it first, before any other editing, especially editing whose strength you are determining visually.


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Apr 21, 2012 14:06 as a reply to  @ Maxdave's post |  #37

Has anyone discovered any guidelines to the use of the setting slider in the DLO module?

P.S. For those who use DPP + + , I can confirm that the 10.2 version of DPP + + works correctly with the newest version of DPP with DLO ... excellent Yacine!

Maxdave


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tzalman
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Apr 21, 2012 14:56 |  #38

"The [Setting} checkbox will be checkmarked if the image has the Digital lens optimizer already applied. Remove the checkmark and click the [Save] button to cancel the Digital Lens Optimizer."

Thanks for the correction. I didn't know that.


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EdKiefer
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Apr 21, 2012 16:38 |  #39

tonylong wrote in post #14304026 (external link)
Interesting, I've tried the DLO but haven't seen results that jumped out at me. What setting did you use?



The output of the HDR is a jpeg or a tiff, so I't get the most out of the Raw files as you can then use a 16 bit tiff for processing the result. I find that the HDR merge tends to kee the highlights too bright.

The blending seems to ignore your picture style, although I'm not sure of that. At any rate by default it uses a "Natural" Preset which to my eye seems pretty close to a Neutral PS. You can, though, "tweak" the image with different things before saving the result. They do offer different "Art" presets that give that "goofy" look. But one interesting control you can mess with is the "Digital Enhancement" control -- it has quite an effect.

Also, when messing with the HDR window before Saving, I'd Max the window to view the shot full screen.

right, the HDR edit window would be nice to have view % size available .

What I meant by bracketing exposures if you choose for example -1.5 , 0, +1.5 would give you more unrealistic output compared to say -1, 0, +1 exposures for same settings . I tend to like art-standard as starting point .




  
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tonylong
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Apr 21, 2012 17:03 |  #40

EdKiefer wrote in post #14304627 (external link)
right, the HDR edit window would be nice to have view % size available .

What I meant by bracketing exposures if you choose for example -1.5 , 0, +1.5 would give you more unrealistic output compared to say -1, 0, +1 exposures for same settings . I tend to like art-standard as starting point .

Ah, well I haven't played with it enough to get a real good "feel" for things. But those "Art" settings scare me:)!


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EdKiefer
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Apr 21, 2012 17:44 |  #41

tonylong wrote in post #14304750 (external link)
Ah, well I haven't played with it enough to get a real good "feel" for things. But those "Art" settings scare me:)!

right, I played a bit with doing single image and bracketed images .

When you open it up the default natrual has all the detail settings on 0 , the art-standard keeps the 3 top sliders the same but now adds HDR affect with strength-25 , smoothing-10 ,fine-20 .

To me single imaged HDR doesn't really do HDR but more tonemapping or what I can do in RT with shadows/hightlight and tonemapping . bringing out detail in shadows and the highlight .




  
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tonylong
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Apr 21, 2012 17:53 |  #42

Well, I'll have to play with it more.

Honestly, though, I don't normally shoot with HDR in mind. I do bracket, but it's typically just to get a range of exposures to play with and find one that gives the best Raw processing output. I'll have to mess around some:)!


Tony
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DavidWatts
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Apr 21, 2012 23:42 |  #43

Running DLO will remove the Chromatic Aberration choice from the Lens Aberrations tab. Its not even grayed out - just missing entirely. I guess DLO'ing will do all the aberration heavy lifting. Another reason to DLO first, then move to the Aberrations tab and play with the remaining three choices.


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tzalman
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Apr 22, 2012 00:41 |  #44

I noticed while trying a downloaded 5D3 file that an additional Picture Style appears in the P.S. menu, "Auto". Anybody know what that's about?


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tonylong
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Apr 22, 2012 00:45 |  #45

Hmm -- no Auto PS when opening a 5DC Raw file. Does the 5D3 setting have a Standard? Do the 5DC bodies have an "Auto" PS? Or, since the newer bodies can shoot Raw in the Auto/Green Box mode, is this just added for when you have one of the newer bodies for when you shoot in Auto?


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