To stabilize or not to stabilize, that is the question

Neewbie here,

I'm off out to shoot some football (soccer) later and am wondering if I should use the stabilizer or not.

I'll have my 7D with the 70-200 IS 2.8 lens, the conditions are overcast with the occasional rain shower possible.

There is a small, about waist height wall around the pitch that you can see in the attached shot.

So, if I put my elbows on the wall to steady the camera will having the stabilizer on be the right thing to do? I'll obviously be following the action so camera movement will happen.

Many thanks
Simon.

Unless you are solidly locked on a tripod, stabilize.

gonzogolf wrote in post #14264127
Unless you are solidly locked on a tripod, stabilize.

Brilliant, thanks.

gonzogolf wrote in post #14264127
Unless you are solidly locked on a tripod, stabilize.

+1 but I would put it into mode 2 (switch on the lens) so you can use panning

Using a tripod is more stable that elbows on a wall, but your choice of tripod head is liable to make your efforts at tracking fast moving players a very frustrating task during the heat of a game! In that situation, elbows on wall is liable to be a far better way to manage tracking the players. But I really suggest resting the 70-200mm lens directly upon a bean bag placed on the wall, rather than your elbows.

Wilt wrote in post #14264506
Using a tripod is more stable that elbows on a wall, but your choice of tripod head is liable to make your efforts at tracking fast moving players a very frustrating task during the heat of a game! In that situation, elbows on wall is liable to be a far better way to manage tracking the players. But I really suggest resting the 70-200mm lens directly upon a bean bag placed on the wall, rather than your elbows.

Wilt, you must have amazing precognition skills to shoot soccer from a camera resting on a beanbag. Besides if the difference in stability between elbow rest and a bean bag are critical your shutter speeds would be too slow to stop sports action anyway.

Depends on what kind of shutter speeds you are getting. If it's fast enough to hand hold then I would actually turn IS off because it can mess with things when you are trying to track a moving target. If you are panning, as someone already mentioned, put it in mode 2.

gonzogolf wrote in post #14264589
Wilt, you must have amazing precognition skills to shoot soccer from a camera resting on a beanbag. Besides if the difference in stability between elbow rest and a bean bag are critical your shutter speeds would be too slow to stop sports action anyway.

Sorry, I don't have the version of software with precognition included, still in the Dark Ages! But resting the lens on the bag and pivoting around on top of it is far easier and more stable than putting camera and lens on an unlocked ballhead (pan control alone would not be sufficient for dealing with action that moves closer and farther away a lot). I was suggesting the bean bag as better to deal with a front heavy load due to lens weight. A full height tripod with gimbal head would be best. Must admit though, that -- whether using bean bag or elbows on the wall -- it will be a challenge setting yourself at precisely the right height to the wall and holding that level thoughout the game, without an adjustable height chair to sit upon!

I think some you guys are way over-thinking this. I see no reason to need to turn off image stabilization for these type of shot. It's not going to get you any additional sharpness in these types of shots IMO.

Your going to be zoomed out probably at 200MM anyways so just leave it IS on and shoot it hand held. Mode 2 is probably the most suitable also.

I only turn off IS when i'm mounted to a tripod and I am going to be shooting fairly stationary items.

BaghdadFred wrote in post #14264731
I think some you guys are way over-thinking this. I see no reason to need to turn off image stabilization for these type of shot. It's not going to get you any additional sharpness in these types of shots IMO.

Your going to be zoomed out probably at 200MM anyways so just leave it IS on and shoot it hand held. Mode 2 is probably the most suitable also.

I only turn off IS when i'm mounted to a tripod and I am going to be shooting fairly stationary items.

Yeah, for this specific situation, you are probably right. But when the shutter speed gets up there, like beyond 1/500 to 1/1000, IS will actually interfere and depending on what you are shooting, like you are tracking a moving target.

nicksan wrote in post #14264762
Yeah, for this specific situation, you are probably right. But when the shutter speed gets up there, like beyond 1/500 to 1/1000, IS will actually interfere and depending on what you are shooting, like you are tracking a moving target.

Hmm, I've never noticed "interference" from having IS on shooting handheld or with a monopod.

Yes, stabilize. We've heard the potential for issues with VR (we shoot Nikon) and high shutter speeds, but just turn it off in those situations.

BaghdadFred wrote in post #14264731
I think some you guys are way over-thinking this. I see no reason to need to turn off image stabilization for these type of shot. It's not going to get you any additional sharpness in these types of shots IMO.

Your going to be zoomed out probably at 200MM anyways so just leave it IS on and shoot it hand held. Mode 2 is probably the most suitable also.

I only turn off IS when i'm mounted to a tripod and I am going to be shooting fairly stationary items.

same here, - because if I turn the "IS" off I'll forget to turn it back on

tonylong wrote in post #14265495
Hmm, I've never noticed "interference" from having IS on shooting handheld or with a monopod.

I have. But we are talking about faster shutter speeds, like 1/500 and faster. It's a bigger problem when panning. Of course for that, you put it in mode 2. That said, when I am getting very fast shutter speed, I turn IS off.

sold all my IS stuff in favor of larger apertures, I seldom miss it, and wonder if I ever really needed it at all. With the ability of the newer bodies (like that 7D of yours) to use the higher ISO's with good results, I challenge you to work on your technique and get the shots your gear is capable of giving you without relying on a gyro to help.

Nothing wrong with ANYTHING that helps bring out better IQ and lets you get shots you wouldn't be able to get otherwise, nothing is cheating, it's all good. I loved my IS lenses when I had them, especially when in a moving vehichle or on the water, but my goal now is to be ready when the improvements in high ISO become so tempting I can't resist and be shooting so fast all the time that even my lousy technique will match the IS lens shots.

I had to make a choice, I just couldn't justify a 24-70 AND a 28-105, a 70-200 f2.8 and a 100-400. There is no substitute for speed and good technique.