Pixel Hotshoe to PC-Sync Adapters

The Pixel TF-321 adapter for Canon is a quality product with a high Canon-format spec. They have the Canon locking pin and recess and lock securely up and down. But...

The original intent was to provide camera bodies with a Canon ETTL hotshoe but no PC-sync port with an adapter which provided a PC-sync port. Pixel added on top a full hotshoe with three wires connected to provide a pass-through Fire! capability. The problem was that the camera's electronics can be overloaded. Each port (PC, hotshoe) should be independently driven.

So, Pixel cut the three wires to the hotshoe, fixing the loading problem. (The wires are still there and can be re-soldered.) But the unit still had a hotshoe, which now did nothing, but looked as though it might do what many users wanted.

Eventually, Pixel released the "NEW TF-321" which has all 6 wires connected through, and the two ports are correctly buffered. At last, it was what it appeared to be, an ETTL pass-through with a PC-sync port. They also released the TF-326 for Canon, which has no top hotshoe - it is visibly just a hotshoe to PC-sync adapter.

There's more...

Warning: All three versions are currently on sale! The NEW TF-321 at eBay US$14; the old ones at US$9 or up to $39. Let the buyer beware!

Opportunity: The earlier units can be useful. Instead of using sticky tape to cover some TTL pins, just pop on an old TF-321 with 3 wire connected. Professional look. No residue. An instant TTL-Decoupler.

And what about the Kings? The early 3-wire units make a great buffer to drive Speedlites in dumb-flash mode. Canon flash control menus provide either all-ETTL or all-Manual settings. So, the King can only work with these. In fact, the King RX forces all full-featured Speedlites to follow these menu settings, even when the user has set specific values on-flash.

Place a 430EXII on an old TF-321 on top of a King RX, and it will sync, including 2nd-curtain, but its on-flash settings for Flash Mode, Power and Zoom will not respond to menu changes or lens zooming. (A clamp-type adapter or the Mini-Stand would be needed to mount on a light stand as there is no 1/4 socket).

im not sure if im reading this correctly but would this allow you to have 2 flashes in manual using pixel kings. put the tf-321 on one flash and set zoom to 105mm and it would stay set at that but you could adjust the other flash zoom from the camera?

barryonn wrote in post #14308885
im not sure if im reading this correctly but would this allow you to have 2 flashes in manual using pixel kings. put the tf-321 on one flash and set zoom to 105mm and it would stay set at that but you could adjust the other flash zoom from the camera?

Exactly. The 105mm flash could be a hairlight, and another near-axis main light following the lens setting using Auto Zoom. Both sync'd, one fully controlled.

so i would need the old version of tf-321 how do i tell the diffrence on ebay listings ?

barryonn wrote in post #14311938
so i would need the old version of tf-321 how do i tell the diffrence on ebay listings ?

Price; the presence of "NEW TF-321" in listing; descriptive text.

http://www.ebay.co.uk …ts_JN&hash=item​3f0215f10d

would these be correct?

???

Yes, there really is still someone out there reading your plea. For once, I don't quite agree with Cliveyboy - price tends not to be that good a guide. The other two points are spot-on though. The main one comes from scrolling down the details to the compatibility section and if it says "No" to TTL compatible, then there's your answer.

If there is a pack shot showing the box then the attached comparison may help. On the left is the old style packaging with hanging tab, on the right there is no hanging tab but the word "NEW" bottom right. Looking at the externals of the unit, the only difference I can see is that the new version (right front) has the PC socket very slightly protruding. This may not be a valid way to differentiate and, anyway, you'd have to buy the thing to find out

The internals are completely different - shown in the second attachment. As Cliveyboy says, the two outlets are now buffered so as not to overload the camera electronics. It's possible to tag three wires onto appropriate points on the old TF-321 system (I know, I did it, I took them off for this pic) which will give you full TTL pass through - but no buffering. Similarly, it's possible if you end up with the new version to simply cut the necessary wires - well, it is if you really want to.

PS There is NO significance to the PC socket being in the upper half of the new unit but the lower half of the old unit other than that the wires aren't very long and I didn't want to overstretch them just for a picture.

For the sake of completeness, here's the old TF-321 wired up for TTL pass through. It does work, but there's always that danger of frying your camera with accumulated trigger voltages.

Thanks, Whortleberry, for the update and detail.

You're very welcome, Clive. They're very neat little units and both variants work extremely well.

Ok thanks so for my Metz 58 AF-2 and 600 EX RT which one do I buy?

It depends very much on what exactly you want to do. The old version (ie in the vendors description, it will say NO to eTTL) will only give you original hotshoe synch of fire/not fire as only the centre contact and the rails are 'live'. Obviously, the PC socket can only ever be fire/not fire as there are only two possible contacts. IF you want to retain full eTTL capability on the top hotshoe then you need the NEW version (no hanging tab on box, orange/red circle bottom right, YES to eTTL in description).

What is it you want to do?

Whortleberry wrote in post #14577967
It depends very much on what exactly you want to do. The old version (ie in the vendors description, it will say NO to eTTL) will only give you original hotshoe synch of fire/not fire as only the centre contact and the rails are 'live'. Obviously, the PC socket can only ever be fire/not fire as there are only two possible contacts. IF you want to retain full eTTL capability on the top hotshoe then you need the NEW version (no hanging tab on box, orange/red circle bottom right, YES to eTTL in description).

What is it you want to do?

I just ordered the new one, so in order to set flash settings on flash instead of camera, I hook the TF-321 onto my flash with the cord and then hook the receiver on the bottom?

Looking at your equipment list, I'm seriously wondering why you need a TF-321 at all. The Pixel Kings listed will do everything you can do with either flash directly on the camera - the Tx simply 'maps' what Rx units are turned on and transmits commands from the camera. One Tx on camera and an Rx under each flash unit should give you as much control as you can get. Adding a TF-321 into the mix is no more than another set of connections with no added features as far as I can see. But I stand to be corrected on this.