Pixel Hotshoe to PC-Sync Adapters

thanks for the update

SpartanWarrior wrote in post #14578223
I just ordered the new one, so in order to set flash settings on flash instead of camera, I hook the TF-321 onto my flash with the cord and then hook the receiver on the bottom?

It's a bit late for SpartanWarrior, perhaps, but to clarify:

If a Speedlite or compatible is mounted on a King RX, the King TX will force it to comply with the camera's Flash Control Menus, and ignore manual on-flash settings.

If you want to use a fully-controllable flash as a dumb, manually-set flash, it must be separated from all but the centre pin and the rails.

The dirty way is to cover the 4 extra contacts in the RX shoe with insulating tape.

A clean way is to use the RX's PC-sync connector and cable. The problem with that is that Canon did not provide an input into its Speedlite, except for the 580EXII and later. So a PC-sync socket to hotshoe adapter must be used.

An alternative is to use a TF-321 which has only the rails and centrepin wires internally connected from shoe to foot. Some early versions were wired this way; others will need to be opened and adapted. This buffers the flash mounted on the TF-321 from the 4 extra pins on the King RX. It is a neat, non-dangling, plug-in solution.

This quick pic shows an umbrella bracket, a King RX, a TF-321 and a 430EXII. To change back to full control, just remove the TF.

Update on a NON-destructive way of adapting the Pixel TF-321 (new version) for TTL-bypass use on Monday (all being well). The OLD version TF-321 is still currently available from http://www.ebay.co.uk …_trksid=p3984.m​1439.l2649 for those who want one. BTW that's their best price cos I already asked when I ordered another one for myself! Just to save you asking Wenshy yourself!

If you've been following this thread and seek a hotshoe converter without TTL but have actually got one with TTL facility (eg you bought a new version Pixel TF-321 thinking it would just act as a 2 port fire/not-fire outlet), the usual way of converting is to start cutting wires. Though this does work, it's a one-way-street solution as resoldering/rewiring is a tricky business with tiny 7 filament wires and pins embedded in plastic which promptly melt and fall out at the slightest opportunity.

Here's an easy and reversible way of converting the 'new' Pixel TF-321 (TTL) to the 'old' Pixel TF-321 (non-TTL). All you need is a perfectly ordinary Philips 00 size crosshead screwdriver - nothing else.

1. Undo the 4 case screws to reveal the innards. In picture 1 (RHS), remove the 4 screws retaining the circuit board. Lift the circuit board to reveal 4 LOOSE springs underneath.
   
2. In picture 1 (LHS), remove the 4 springs shown and the pins underneath them.
   
3. Replace the circuit board, screw in place and close the case.
   
4. Finished!
   

• The 4 screws retaining the circuit board go right through and also secure the metal hotshoe plate underneath. This is simply pushed onto the pin housing and may fall off. It goes back on very easily.
  
• The springs under the circuit board are not compressed but hey they're springs! The pins under the springs are also not attached to anything. They are SMALL. If you are an idiot, you'll sit quietly doing all this and drop one or more parts on the floor. Then one gets lost. Do it over a box. Don't be an idiot - there's quite enough with one of me!
  
• You NEED the centre pin and spring - don't remove that or it won't work. That centre contact is almost exactly 50.00000% of the fire circuit. No pin. No circuit. DO IT OVER A BOX, you're going to drop something for sure.

the modified TF-321 and (right) an unmodified version.
Pic 3 gives a tiny clue as to how big the bits aren't. Put the removed 4 springs and 4 pins (if you haven't got 8 pieces ±0 then you've done it wrong) in a safe place then you can replace and get all the TTL functions back whenever you want.

Right, I've done what I promised - now back on my hands and knees scrubbing round looking for the bl**dy pin that rolled off my desk cos I didn't use a box! Not my fault, nobody told me to USE A BOX.

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A HUMBLE APOLOGY
I seem to have inadvertently misinformed folks about the availability of OLD TF-321 from the link in Post #19 here. Just received another of these units from Jiakgong Digital as per the link. The illustration they supply shows the old item and the text specifies NO to ETTL. I also asked Wenshy specifically if it was the OLD (ie no ETTL) and was told that it was.

What arrived was the NEW version, in the OLD box (no NEW sticker on it as a clue)! Obviously there's no way short of taking the thing apart (hardly likely they'd do that) or using it that Jiakgong could tell the difference. Hence the confusion. My fault entirely.

Sorry if I led anyone up the garden path with this - I perhaps jumped the gun a little and should have waited for Royal Snail to deliver. The previous one from the same source was the old version and I did that fateful thing of assuming it'd be the same. ASS u ME

Fortunately, anyone who gets the new one by mistake can follow my instructions in post #20 and actually get the non-TTL version.

Right, end of humble - back to being arrogant, smug and know-it-all

PS. No. Didn't find the little pin mentioned in post #20. The sore knees complement the red face really well.

There are more than two wiring arrangements out there; I have received three. And yes, it is unlikely that any merchant will be sure of which version they have. I suspect that even Pixel is not sure...

It does not take advanced soldering skills to make one into the other. I do not recommend the pin removal for the reason that Whortleberry demonstrates Note that the signal direction on the current version is camera-hotshoe to PC-sync socket, and camera-hotshoe to adapter hotshoe. It does not do PC-sync to adapter hotshoe. The internal electronics are one-way!

Update on old/new/something blue situation regarding these adapters. In response to my feedback to Jiakgong, they wrote:

Hi,Phil
I'm glad that you have gotten the parcel, and sincerely appreciate your feedback for the issue. We send you the item which we get from the manufacturer, and I asked Pixel just now, they don't produce the old version any more, really sorry for this issue, sincerely hope to get your understanding.
Regards
Wenshy
- jiakgong

Hence it would seem that any pursuit of the original 3 wire type is very much down to finding someone with old stock. Given the way Cino-eBay vending works, I think we can probably rule out any viable chance of finding old stock - no-one actually holds stock in the classic way. End of that story, in real terms.

However, there's the alternative outlined above of simply removing the connector pins. Not quite clear if it's this which Clive doesn't recommend or the desoldering/resolderin​g of the pins to the hotshoe. Soldering at the circuit board end is fiddly but quite possible, the moulded-in pins with go through to the top (female) shoe are rather more tricky. I managed it once, I wouldn't like to redo on the same pins because the plastic melts.