Advice needed Major League Soccer + 5D II

JoeyBahr wrote in post #14301474
Let me second the person who suggested the 300mm lens...

Shutter speed? I would say keep it above 1/1000th. If it's a daytime game, I would suggest using Aperture Priority mode.

Aperture priority? I guess you suggest that aperture be set to wide open - f/2.8 or whatever to help with AF accuracy. Then pump up ISO enough to keep the shutter 1/1000th or more.

I'm considering buying a used 7D, which will give me the equivalent to 300mm compared to the 5D II. Only thing is probably a bad time to buy a 7D body now but may get one used and just resell it if not happy with it. Thanks again everybody for the advice. Shooting soccer is new to me

The game is this Sat. 3PM.

ajaffe wrote in post #14301800
Not sure what to say. 250th simply won't cut it once you start cropping and capturing peak action.

From my experience this is true, I've seen comments that you can get away with slower shutter speeds for kids sports but some kids move plenty fast as well!

I shot a karate tournament indoors recently and using 1/640 I still had the slightest hint of motion blur in some shots. I didn't expect to see any but I guess flying limbs travel pretty fast...

ilikeglass wrote in post #14312909
Aperture priority? I guess you suggest that aperture be set to wide open - f/2.8 or whatever to help with AF accuracy. Then pump up ISO enough to keep the shutter 1/1000th or more.

I'm considering buying a used 7D, which will give me the equivalent to 300mm compared to the 5D II. Only thing is probably a bad time to buy a 7D body now but may get one used and just resell it if not happy with it. Thanks again everybody for the advice. Shooting soccer is new to me

The game is this Sat. 3PM.

Look, since it is likely that you are going to be there for the whole match, how about trying all the things that we have told you. Go to a local match before the game if you can, you don't need a 300mm lens as a rule unless you are in the stands, since the most action is likely to in the goal mouth area, not to say all, but most. Do you need that amount of focal length? I doubt it, unless you want to be near the corner flag. Also, get a zoom lens, you don't need a prime lens at 300mm

You need practice to get experience, Rome wasn't built in a day.

ilikeglass wrote in post #14312909
Aperture priority? I guess you suggest that aperture be set to wide open - f/2.8 or whatever to help with AF accuracy. Then pump up ISO enough to keep the shutter 1/1000th or more.

Wide open aperture doesn't help with AF accuracy. All lenses AF with the aperture wide-open and then stop down when taking the shot. However, a wide open aperture will give you faster shutter speeds and a narrow depth of field for subject isolation and to blur out the distracting background.

ilikeglass wrote in post #14312909
JPG (for faster FPS)

Shooting RAW or JPG gives the same FPS on the 5D2. Shooting JPG will give you more shots before the buffer fills. If you have plenty of CF cards, I'd still recommend shooting RAW.

The FPS on the 5D2 is fairly slow, so it takes quite a few consecutive shots to fill the buffer (14-17 frames in RAW depending on the speed of your CF card). That's holding down the shutter button for 4 consecutive seconds. And then you'd have to wait only 7.5 seconds for the buffer to write to CF (and you can continue to capture a shot each time the buffer sends a file to CF).

But, then again, if you're not used to timing sports action, it might be better for you to shoot in JPG and just rapidfire 78 JPGs when/if a scoring play gets within range.

Definitely do a microfocus adjustment (MA) calibration with the 70-200/2.8 on the 5D2. Especially since you'll be shooting wide-open on FF.

And if your field position allows, get low. As low as possible. Kneel or lay flat. Don't stand.

400dabuser wrote in post #14318193
Look, since it is likely that you are going to be there for the whole match, how about trying all the things that we have told you. Go to a local match before the game if you can, you don't need a 300mm lens as a rule unless you are in the stands, since the most action is likely to in the goal mouth area, not to say all, but most. Do you need that amount of focal length? I doubt it, unless you want to be near the corner flag. Also, get a zoom lens, you don't need a prime lens at 300mm

You need practice to get experience, Rome wasn't built in a day.

This.

You learn by experimenting and what works for you. I shot soccer with a 70-200 for 2 seasons. Worked great. You might even find that a 300mm prime may not be for you!

Like 400dabuser said, most of the action is in the penalty area and the corners, in which a 300 is too long. (on a crop)

Also depends on what you're trying to capture.

If you (or your customers or your photo editor) want faces, then a long prime is ideal (300, 400, 600).

But if you're trying to capture action, then wider (70-200) is fine. And easier. For editorial action (e.g. sports page to depict a score) it's easier to tell the story if you have the shooter, defender, ball, goal, and keeper in the frame. This is easier to do with 70-200 than it it with 300, 400, or 600 prime.

But if your assignment is to capture stock or faces, then a long prime really extends your reach (and even with a prime you end up with a lot of pseudo-zoom composition variety as the players are at different distances throughout the game).

It frankly boils down to what you want to do.

I shoot soccer, soccer is my sport.

I had a 300 and it was too short to capture midfield battles without pretty heavy cropping. I got a 400 and I was able to now shoot things in the midfield, but also across the field pretty effectively without losing too many pixels on target after cropping. I have literally shot entire games with a 400 and not missed a key moment or not able to tell the story of the game.

I typically switch to the 70-200 when action comes far into the penalty area or closely in front of me.

The 24-70 is for stadium wides, pregrame starting 11s and as a goal remote for the most part.

As well, I shoot on a 1.3x crop. Full frame is a difference maker since you lose reach. I would want a 300 for penalty area shots since you have to sit so far back from the endline in a professional match. Can you get by with a 70-200? Sure. But why go less than ideal when you are putting your name on it.

Thanks for all of the recommendations. I found this also, very useful - "How to Take Great Soccer Photos" - http://goalwa.wordpres​s.com …take-great-soccer-photos/

Based on everything that I've read in this thread, and the above link, I'll do the following:
Camera setting:
M or Av. Depends on the clouds - if mixed cloud cover with light changes, Av is best.
Aperture: f/4 to f/5.6 - The extra depth of field will come in handy for focus and to get multiple players.
Shutter Speed: Will try for at least 1/1000.
Mostly full size JPG, maybe some in RAW.
ISO - around 3200, hopefully less

I'm going to bring a Canon 17-40L for shots of the stadium and also a folding stool.

Don't limit yourself to a certain aperture size. If you are filling the frame then it matters a little more.

ilikeglass wrote in post #14326730
Thanks for all of the recommendations. I found this also, very useful - "How to Take Great Soccer Photos" - http://goalwa.wordpres​s.com …take-great-soccer-photos/

Based on everything that I've read in this thread, and the above link, I'll do the following:
Camera setting:
M or Av. Depends on the clouds - if mixed cloud cover with light changes, Av is best.
Aperture: f/4 to f/5.6 - The extra depth of field will come in handy for focus and to get multiple players.
Shutter Speed: Will try for at least 1/1000.
Mostly full size JPG, maybe some in RAW.
ISO - around 3200, hopefully less

I'm going to bring a Canon 17-40L for shots of the stadium and also a folding stool.

im going to read this...
hopefully im allowed out to play with the big boys.. (FF Guys )

I shoot pics of my kids.. my 12 year old is in a travel U12 team...
when i go... I cant set one aspect of my camera until i get there..

Yes..
Day = 1/640 MINIMUM... go lower and running shots are ok.. but hard kicks are blurry.. falling kids (tripping) can be blurry) so I have found 1/640 as my minimum..

so for me I attempt this..

M

ISO 100-200 (try not much higer but you have FF so you will get better results. i have pushed 3200 and 6400 but dont like it)

F5.6 (i use my 55-250mm so @ 250 mm it is 5.6 so i go max so i know my settings will stick) but your f2.8 is constant so you can play around there..

1/640-1/2000 - whatever i need to do to not over expose depending on the sun...

now I have found in times where clouds roll in and it is not a clear day but not truely dark..
I will use AV..

AV
f.5.6
ISO200

ya gotta see, try and learn what works for your camera..
im a hobbyist and my stuff is not great but i have a feeling for when i get there what my settings will be and get close..

just like setting the timing on a car.. you can ballpark hear it. but the timing light will set ya

good luck shooting.. cant wait to see them.. i love seeing soccer and hockey pics (deck hockey mainley)

ajaffe wrote in post #14319342
I had a 300 and it was too short to capture midfield battles without pretty heavy cropping. I got a 400 and I was able to now shoot things in the midfield, but also across the field pretty effectively without losing too many pixels on target after cropping. I have literally shot entire games with a 400 and not missed a key moment or not able to tell the story of the game.

Which 400mm do you use? I was thinking of the 400 f/5.6, since it would take me 4-5 years to save for that...

I have the 2.8 version

So it would take him 40-50 years to save...

BeerWolf wrote in post #14333868
So it would take him 40-50 years to save...

Naw, maybe 30...

I think I am going to pick up a used 400 f/5.6 tomorrow though. Best I can do at this point.

kenjancef wrote in post #14334548
Naw, maybe 30...

I think I am going to pick up a used 400 f/5.6 tomorrow though. Best I can do at this point.

Buy once cry once.