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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 01 May 2012 (Tuesday) 17:47
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Flourescent Lights - Bad Rep?

 
weegee
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May 04, 2012 15:21 |  #16

The only problem for the color chart I see is the orange. 2nd row far left and far right.

I'm going to try a couple of the 4 bulb banks just for the heck of it. I won't do any drilling or rewiring so I can quickly return them anyway. I figure I can mount them on the old "can and a stick" method. Probably go with the 5000k bulbs because they're cheaper and closer to speedlite temp in case I use them as well.

The closet door set up Edelman uses is pretty genius if you have a dedicated space. BUt I can see your appoint about lugging that stuff in and out. Esepcially with those fragile bulbs that shatter into a gajillion pieces

I'll report back with some pics, but might take a few weeks.


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Wilt
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May 04, 2012 16:52 |  #17

Just for reference, the ColorChecker fluorescent was shot under the 8' Kitchen & Bath tubes by GE


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weegee
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May 04, 2012 17:28 |  #18

Wilt, were you shooting at 1/120 or 1/125th to synch with the 60 mhz, or the bulbs you were using were more modern that recycle much faster, so shutter doesn't matter?

be interesting to do a burst and see how much the color changes from shot to shot.


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gintasr
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May 04, 2012 17:45 |  #19

I'm actually building my own kino flo's. Just make sure you use an electronic ballast and color balanced lamps with a high cri. I'm using the Philips TL950 T8 bulbs with a Philips ballast


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Wilt
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May 04, 2012 17:45 |  #20

weegee wrote in post #14380639 (external link)
Wilt, were you shooting at 1/120 or 1/125th to synch with the 60 mhz, or the bulbs you were using were more modern that recycle much faster, so shutter doesn't matter?

be interesting to do a burst and see how much the color changes from shot to shot.

Shot at 1/60, standard 120v 60Hz US household fixture.


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tkbslc
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May 04, 2012 17:47 |  #21

Are you shooting video where constant lighting is required? If not you are going to get more output out of a $150 monolight. Why bother?


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Curtis ­ N
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May 04, 2012 21:16 |  #22

With Wilt's permission, I sliced and diced his images a bit, for easier comparison.

The yellowish-green looks pretty close, because that's basically what color fluorescent light is.

With red, violet and blue, the fluorescent looks darker, because Fluorescent light is weak in those parts of the spectrum.

Looking at the grey shades, the daylight shot might be exposed a hair brighter, yet the fluorescent yellow seems a hair brighter than the daylight yellow. Fluorescent tends to oversaturate yellow, which digital cameras often have trouble with, yielding ugly results.


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May 06, 2012 12:09 |  #23

Curtis N wrote in post #14381495 (external link)
With Wilt's permission, I sliced and diced his images a bit, for easier comparison.

The yellowish-green looks pretty close, because that's basically what color fluorescent light is.

With red, violet and blue, the fluorescent looks darker, because Fluorescent light is weak in those parts of the spectrum.

Looking at the grey shades, the daylight shot might be exposed a hair brighter, yet the fluorescent yellow seems a hair brighter than the daylight yellow. Fluorescent tends to oversaturate yellow, which digital cameras often have trouble with, yielding ugly results.

Curtis,
I should note that on the fluorescent shot, I not only did WB adjustment using the 4th square of the bottom row of the ColorChecker, but I also had to increase Contrast significantly in LR. Both shots used the same gray square for spot metering exposure. In the Daylight shot I used the default Brightness 50, Contrast 25. In the Fluorescent shot, I left Brightness at 50 but had to bump Contrast up to about 60.


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AntonLargiader
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May 07, 2012 06:41 |  #24

When I was looking at bulbs at Lowe's few months ago, I think I found a better CRI selection in T12 format than in T8. Just one data point, though.

And electronic ballasts can be had for either, so you don't HAVE to go T8 if you want to get away from flicker.


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May 07, 2012 18:34 as a reply to  @ post 14379538 |  #25

I have a four light compact flourescent softbox which I use to supplement my light for video work of my dogs. I wondered what it would be like to shoot a still image with the flourescent softlight so I tried it on these puppies.

The best exposure I could get was 1/30 second @ f/4 using ISO 320 with the light five feet from the puppies.

ISO 320 is higher than I like to use for portraits and 1/30 second is too slow to stop any subject motion - as you see in this example when the puppy moved its head.

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IMO, a cheap JTL monolight bounced into a cheap umbrella or used with a shoot through umbrella will do a better job for portraits.

In fact, a single flash bouncced from a Stroboframe Bracket and modified with a Joe demb Flash Diffuser pro does quite a nice job...

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Flourescent Lights - Bad Rep?
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