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Thread started 03 May 2012 (Thursday) 17:51
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BlackRapid FastenR-T1 vs Manfrotto RC2 stock ring to attach BlackRapid straps

 
sherpa25
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Jun 19, 2013 08:59 |  #16

Wow, that's a quite a load you've got there :)

Thanks for the info. Though I haven't checked much yet on the difference between the MN323 and what I currently have (488RC2), it seems the MN323 is a totally different set? On the other hand, I wasn't planning on changing, but rather just wanted to keep my setup and simply improve on my strap connection to the RC2. Currently I only have the fixed fastener, w/c has to be removed for tripod use. Now I'm planning on having the RC2 plate fixed on my cam, w/c led me to get the FR-T1. And I don't have plans too of needing multiple sets, at least in the near future :)


Canon EOS 60D | Σ17-50 f2.8 | Canon 50mm f1.8 | Canon EF-S 55-250mm f3.5-5.6

  
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tdodd
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Jun 19, 2013 09:11 |  #17

The 323 is just a quick release platform, which can be used to add an RC2 compatible QR system to anything which has a standard tripod thread sticking out of it - like the top of a monopod or an alternate brand tripod head, or perhaps a flash bracket. For my setup all it needs is to have the original BR FR-3 D-rings screwed into the rear of the platform. The rings are secured into the rear of the platform with Loctite 222 threadlocker.

EDIT : Another example of the MN323, not my image - http://images.okazje.i​nfo.pl …a/1539/manfrott​o-559b.jpg (external link)

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sherpa25
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Jun 19, 2013 11:10 |  #18

I see now. It's basically having a similar clamp (like the one normally attached to the ballhead) attached to the end of the sling. That's quite ingenious, and releasing it from the sling seems even faster. Slight downside though would be bulk, as you said. Thanks again.

Regarding the FR-T1's, I would surmise from the amount of your setup that all of your T1's have functioned flawlessly.


Canon EOS 60D | Σ17-50 f2.8 | Canon 50mm f1.8 | Canon EF-S 55-250mm f3.5-5.6

  
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gakoenig
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Jun 19, 2013 13:22 |  #19

FYI: On our pull tests, a factory Manfrotto plate screw holds about 60lb when pulled straight, so the load is going into each end of the D-ring evenly.

Of course, the load is *never* even. Pull from a 45 degree angle, and the one we tested failed at 22 pounds.

The typical rule of thumb we use at Luma is a Factor of Safety of at least 15, so if we design something for a camera that weighs 10 pounds, we will load test individual components, and the entire assembly, to a minimum of 150. Basically, the same FoS used in life safety equipment. We typically don't engineer parts over that FoS, because at that point, you are adding material, cost and complexity for no gain.


http://lu.ma (external link), greg@luma-labs.com (external link)

  
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Numenorean
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Jun 19, 2013 13:27 |  #20

kaushama wrote in post #14375438 (external link)
Found this (external link). Will it be a good alternative for expensive Balckrapid solution?

Might as well just tie some string around things and loop that around your shoulders.


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tdodd
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Jun 19, 2013 13:27 |  #21

sherpa25 wrote in post #16045278 (external link)
Regarding the FR-T1's, I would surmise from the amount of your setup that all of your T1's have functioned flawlessly.

I've had problems with the T1s unscrewing, but not quite letting go, and that is why with Black Rapid, as with my Cotton Carrier setup, I now ALWAYS use threadlocker on these fittings. Since then nothing has ever come loose unless I've wanted it to.




  
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sherpa25
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Jun 19, 2013 22:22 |  #22

gakoenig wrote in post #16045680 (external link)
FYI: On our pull tests, a factory Manfrotto plate screw holds about 60lb when pulled straight, so the load is going into each end of the D-ring evenly.

Of course, the load is *never* even. Pull from a 45 degree angle, and the one we tested failed at 22 pounds.

The typical rule of thumb we use at Luma is a Factor of Safety of at least 15, so if we design something for a camera that weighs 10 pounds, we will load test individual components, and the entire assembly, to a minimum of 150. Basically, the same FoS used in life safety equipment. We typically don't engineer parts over that FoS, because at that point, you are adding material, cost and complexity for no gain.

Thanks for the info. So does that mean the Manfrotto stock would still fall under the safe region, considering it failed at 22, where you think 15 is minimum as rule of thumb? Of course it doesn't compare to Luma's minimum of 150! I'm also considering Luma connectors but the main reason I'm considering the FR-T1 (if it works safely) is because it is the cheapest solution so far that would allow me to use my existing RC2 since the FR-T1's D-ring can lay flat.

I was also looking at the membrane connector, but I prefer one connection at the center at the bottom of the camera, rather than offset to the side. Perhaps, is there a shorter membrane connector? Also, what happened to the plan to have a Manfrotto plate made (w/c I read in the Luma thread was planned sometime back March/April, if I recall correctly)?

tdodd wrote in post #16045702 (external link)
I've had problems with the T1s unscrewing, but not quite letting go, and that is why with Black Rapid, as with my Cotton Carrier setup, I now ALWAYS use threadlocker on these fittings. Since then nothing has ever come loose unless I've wanted it to.

I see. So blue locktite solves the problem? How difficult is it to unscrew with blue locktite, if needed?


Canon EOS 60D | Σ17-50 f2.8 | Canon 50mm f1.8 | Canon EF-S 55-250mm f3.5-5.6

  
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sherpa25
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Jun 19, 2013 22:35 |  #23

By the way, regarding strength of sling connectors attached to the tripod hole, I never saw any mention or discussion of stress on the Connectors' threads when attached into the tripod hole. Don't these pose any risk too?


Canon EOS 60D | Σ17-50 f2.8 | Canon 50mm f1.8 | Canon EF-S 55-250mm f3.5-5.6

  
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tdodd
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Jun 20, 2013 01:17 |  #24

sherpa25 wrote in post #16047113 (external link)
I see. So blue locktite solves the problem? How difficult is it to unscrew with blue locktite, if needed?

I don't know anything about "blue" Loctite. I use Loctite 222, which is a purple colour.... (<===== edited to be accurate about the colour)

http://www.loctite.co.​uk …htm?redDotUID=1​000000I7EX (external link)

It was supplied by a friend of mine, who sells the stuff commercially to companies. If you use an excessive amount it can make removal a little tricky, but levering with a screwdriver through the D-ring soon fixes that. TBH I don't actually want to be removing the screws, and I don't want them removing themselves either. Once my RC-2 plates are firmly fixed, whether with T1s or standard D-rings, I don't need them to come off again unless I want to sell kit or switch to a new QR system like Arca-Swiss.




  
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gakoenig
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Jun 20, 2013 10:03 |  #25

Thanks for the info. So does that mean the Manfrotto stock would still fall under the safe region, considering it failed at 22, where you think 15 is minimum as rule of thumb? Of course it doesn't compare to Luma's minimum of 150!

15 isn't a minimum; 15 is the Factor of Safety multiplier. If I am designing a system to carry 10 pounds of weight, I'm going to design it to carry the Load x Factor of Safety (10 pound weight X 15 FoS)... so 150lb.

Luma isn't special in our use of a relatively high Factor of Safety in our gear design, it's a pretty common practice. Life safety gear (like mountain climbing rope and harnesses) are typically designed with a minimum FoS of 20, and most companies overshoot that by a lot.

By the way, regarding strength of sling connectors attached to the tripod hole, I never saw any mention or discussion of stress on the Connectors' threads when attached into the tripod hole. Don't these pose any risk too?

This has been a concern folks have expressed since Black Rapid came onto the scene over 5 years ago, but it's unfounded in actual practice. At first, I often tried to placate these concerns by noting that all of us in the camera strap racket do lots of testing and abuse our own personal gear without this issue. Now though, we've got over a dozen companies with tripod socket mounted products and hundreds of thousands of cameras being carried this way. If there was a truly systemic issue with tripod sockets failing, internet photography forums would be littered with reports of catastrophic gear failures. They are not; most everyone who buys any brand of sling is generally very happy with them and we don't see cameras failing at all.

I don't know anything about "blue" Loctite. I use Loctite 222, which is a red colour....

I think you may have your Loctite compounds a bit confused. Loctite 222 is supposed to be purple and is designated as a lightweight threadlocker for set-screws and other applications where removal of the fastener with hand tools is required. It's basically an anti-vibration compound.

Actual Red Loctite (#271) is a permanent threadlocker. Do Not Use Red (271) Loctite On Your Camera. Removing a screw that is locked down with Red Loctite requires heating the threads to 400+ degrees to break the bond.

All screws have the potential to back out and critical screws should be checked regularly. Even in the aircraft industry - where they typically drill a hole through the screw head and safety wire it down - critical screws get checked during pre-flight. Checking screw connectors is just part of the zen-like joy of owning gear.

Having said that, for folks who may want a bit of extra insurance, I recommend a product called VC-3 from Vibra-Tite. Loctite is basically super glue formulated to bond threads together and is a single use product. VC-3 is unique in that it is comprised of tiny acrylic spheres suspended in a sticky solvent. These tiny spheres get crushed between the threads of a screw and dramatically increase the screw contact surface area, making the screw a bit tighter and far more vibration resistant.

The cool thing with VC-3 is that you apply it once, and can unfasten/refasten the screw up to 6 times without needing to reapply it (basically, until you crush all the acrylic balls from the initial application). It also doesn't require any hand tools or heat to remove.


http://lu.ma (external link), greg@luma-labs.com (external link)

  
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sherpa25
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Jun 20, 2013 10:15 |  #26

Thanks for clarifying.


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tdodd
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Jun 20, 2013 10:25 |  #27

OK, yes, purple rather than red, but definitely not blue. In any case, that is why I referred to it by number.

It is, without doubt, Loctite 222 and the website link I provided clearly lists the specifications, which I am sure you can see are entirely appropriate for the use.

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gakoenig
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Jun 20, 2013 10:57 |  #28

I have no idea where you got Loctite 271 from. Not from me. Here's the bottle. I think I know well enough which product I have been using. I also know how effectively it works for my purposes.

I was only being emphatic because Loctite (in the US) tends to emphasize product color instead of the product number when it comes to marketing (Red = Permanent, Blue=Semi Permanent and Purple=Lightweight). Loctite's numbering scheme also gets a bit complicate as specialty adhesives can be very closely numbered, but be of a totally different formulation.

It would be very poor if someone read this thread and ran out to the hardware store asking for "Red Loctite" to put on their camera. My emphasis was simply an attempt to prevent that from happening.


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tdodd
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Jun 20, 2013 10:59 |  #29

I appreciate that and I will adjust my earlier post to remove doubt, but I go by product designation, because that is unambiguous.




  
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BlackRapid FastenR-T1 vs Manfrotto RC2 stock ring to attach BlackRapid straps
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