EF-S lens on 5D3

Getting worried now that my EF-s 10-22mm will not work on the 5D3. Is it true? Heard that it only causes vignetting from another source but isn't that easy to remove with software?

Have my upgrading dreams been dashed?

If so do they have an EF wide lens (arrgh the cost!)

If you are already getting a 5D3 then the upgrade cost for a similar UWA shouldn't be too much of a punch in the gut

To my knowledge, EF-S lenses do not mount on FF cameras. I could be wrong, but I've never tried it and probably wouldn't try it anyway. Why force something it wasn't built for?

Correct, EFS lenses have an alternative mounting configuration that only APS-C crop bodies allow. Sure, you can alter the lens to fit the mount, but you run the risk of mirror slap on the rear of the lens with a FF, less so with an APS-H crop body.

The widest FF lens you can use is the Sigma 12-24mm at this time. Otherwise you have the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 that would work at 16mm, the 17-40L, the 16-35L, Tamron 16-28, and a very small misc other list of lenses.

EDIT: so let's grab some popcorn and see how far this reply count goes, when this was a simple question with a simple answer.

If you were to modify the lens' mount so that it would mount on the 5D (any version), there's a good chance that the mirror in the camera would crash into the rear element of the lens at certain focal length settings. There would also be some radical vignetting if you used the lens on a 5D.

For the 5D family, the 16-35 f/2.8L (or the newer Mark II version) would provide the same range of coverage that the 10-22 does on your 350D. In addition, you'd be able to open up to f/2.8 with the 16-35.

BTW. Op, correct your sig. It's EF-S not ES-F

Also, Manifrotto is spelled wrong as well. It's Manfrotto

I know how good the EF-S 10-22mm is. It rivals many "L" lens. I still have mine even though i upgraded to APS-H censor. I did NOT have to change the metal mount. I just pulled out the piece of plastic on the mount and it fits my 1D just fine. I can only use from 13mm to 22mm to avoid vignette and slapping the mirror.

To the OP's question, i understand it's hard to let go of the 10-22mm but unfortutely IMHO it's not worth the effort to make it work with a FF body. Even if you successfully mount it on the 5D, you probably could only use it from 17mm and longer without vignetting. Not to mention running a greater risk of hitting the mirror accidentally.

Keep the lens for your 350D. When shooting a wedding, i had my EF-S 10-22 on my 20D, and a telephoto on my 7D. Worked out great because i didn't have to constantly swap lens and wasted precious moments.

syburn wrote in post #14404931
Getting worried now that my EF-s 10-22mm will not work on the 5D3. Is it true?

Neither of your lenses will work.

If you keep your 350d you obviously will still have wide angle ability, or you could cough up for a 16-35, but if you went for the cheaper 17-40 you would only lose 1mm off the wide end from your 10-22. I suspect if you trade your 10-22 in you would not have to pay much

timnosenzo wrote in post #14405035
Neither of your lenses will work.

the 10-22 will "work". There are multiple threads here that go into detail. I use it on both my t2i and 5dc. the rear baffle, the grey plastic thing on the back of the lens is the only thing that stops it from mouting on a FF, it hits the focusing screen. the 10-22 is usablae in the ~12-22 range. if you go down to 10, you will definitely hit the mirror, but i use the degree of vignetting in the viewfinder as a guide. If I see hard vignetting, I know I am reaching too wide to take a shot.

I think there might be a hack for the 17-85 too, but I dont remember as I looked into this a while ago, while trying to decide if I needed a 16/17-XXX.

since the FOV is the same, why not sell it and get a 17-40L or 16-35L.

is the 10-22 that superior to the alternatives on FF?

lilkngster wrote in post #14405090
the 10-22 will "work".

Yeah, I know it can be made to work - but IMO it doesn't make sense to modify a $700 lens to work in a fairly limited capacity (and can risk damaging a $3400 camera) when you could sell that lens and buy something like a 17-40 that is completely compatible.

FOV is similar comparing the 10-22 on a crop and 16/17-XX on FF, but not the same when putting the 10-22 on FF. The advantage of the 10-22 on FF is that you can go wider than 16-17mm, approx 14mm not 12mm as I stated above, on a 1.6 crop and approx 12mm on 1.3 crop. The disadvantage is that the possibility of mirror damage if you are not careful.

If the OP is planing to stick to FF, then probably should get one of the Ls, but I intend to keep both crop and FF and I do not use wide very often on either, so modifying it made the most sense for me.

I'm selling my 10-22 later today and plan on picking up a 17-40 for my 5d3. Losing 1mm shouldn't be too bad as I usually shot around 12-14mm on my 10-22 anyways.

Syburn, you can probably sell the 10-22mm and use the funds to pick up a used 17-40L and pretty much break even.

Thansk for the response.

I was excited to upgrade way above my intended budget because I thought that with FF I would finaly be able to get a real 10-22mm shot without cropping (because I realy only shoot Interiors with any seriousness). Even if I decided to spend on a new lens as well as a new camera, seems I will not be able to get wider - find it almost beyond believe that Cannon dont have a 10-22mm type of lens for FF.

There is a Sigma 12-24mm but but now feel im getting out of my depth in new kit when i have a very good lens already. Have to think about this.

Maybe do back to my 60D original idea. Ho-hum!