panning

Hi.
I urgently need some info to improve my panning technique.
I know its really not easy and that no one can give me a straight answer or a method how to pan.

At the moment: i am using a eos 60d
Al focus. Iso 100 shutterspeed between 1/40-1/60
Apperture... Its daylight so according to the ligh meter larger than f 9.0.Hi speed burst mode...continues shooting....


So i get some photos semi sharp...
Do i turn the OS on or off?
Do i underexpose? Overexpose or correctly expose? If shooting in raw?
Raw or Jpg?
I know i must follow the subbject with my viewfinder and depressing my shutter button.

I will post a few samples later.


Thank you

Panning is the thing I have yet to learn, but shutter at 1/40-1/60... I shoot gigs handheld 1/60, when it's really dark, but even then with holding breath down.

delko wrote in post #14429125
Hi.
I urgently need some info to improve my panning technique.
I know its really not easy and that no one can give me a straight answer or a method how to pan.

So i get some photos semi sharp...


Thank you

trying increasing your shutter speed if your photos are coming out of focus ! seems like you're doing what is required for panning. this is the video i watched to help me with panning, but it maybe old info for you since you already have an idea. it's still a great video from adorama. hope it helps

adorama tv: panning

Thank you .
Im going to post two pics i were proud off i though it were kinda good for an quick attempt.

Tell me do you guys shoot in raw or jpg? Coz i know in jpg you will be able to shoot a langer number of images in burst mode than in raw... That buffer number in the right corner of your canon eos viewfinder....

Thank you for all the help.

Shutter speed depends on vehicle speed

A drag car will move a lot further in 1/50 than a go kart.

Start around 1/200, TV mode, and work your way toward a slower speed, remembering that the slower your shutter, the less your success rate.

As for technique, panning side on is easier than front on, or 3/4. Try to pick a point on the car and keep the focal point there while you move. I usually go for a wheel, headlight, helmet...anything that I can pick as a target to follow.

Stance is also important, especially if it involves sharp corners and you need to move heaps. Feet apart and facing away from each other helps.

Lastly, dont be afraid to burst a few shots off, you might get lucky.

criticize hard? Ok, they're rubbish...sorry

Not only are they too small to pick out any detail, let alone confirm they are sharp, but with nothing but blue sky it's impossible to tell they are panned (except for the really small propellers turning)

Both of these were shot at 1/50, which is very slow for hand held, especially when the subject is so far away. The further away it is, the less you have to move the lens to follow it, but any movement is amplified causing the image to be blurry. you probably could of gotten the same result at 1/250, with more chance of getting it sharp.

Planes are probably not the best subject to be practicing on. A good pan shows movement, and without a reference point in the shot to show the subject is moving, its just a plane.

If you MUST shoot planes, try to get them when they are closer to the ground - not only will they be bigger and easier to track, but may also present some background objects to show the motion.

angryman wrote in post #14429585
criticize hard? Ok, they're rubbish...sorry

Not only are they too small to pick out any detail, let alone confirm they are sharp, but with nothing but blue sky it's impossible to tell they are panned (except for the really small propellers turning)

Both of these were shot at 1/50, which is very slow for hand held, especially when the subject is so far away. The further away it is, the less you have to move the lens to follow it, but any movement is amplified causing the image to be blurry. you probably could of gotten the same result at 1/250, with more chance of getting it sharp.

Planes are probably not the best subject to be practicing on. A good pan shows movement, and without a reference point in the shot to show the subject is moving, its just a plane.

If you MUST shoot planes, try to get them when they are closer to the ground - not only will they be bigger and easier to track, but may also present some background objects to show the motion.

Thank you

Ok so im onto shutter priority for my next try.
I am a student here in south africa and at the university we have this photography assignment. Im not studing photography...
So the assignment is to shoot a moving subject with panning.
That is why i started the thread.

Thank you. Would you say rather RAW or JPG?

Thank you

I shoot raw personally, but shoot whatever works for you. If you have the ability and equipment to correctly work with a raw file, it is better in my opinion, but at the end of the day it's up to you.

If you have to shoot something that moves, go shoot some traffic. Its a great way to learn what works and what doesnt, and if you get some good shots you can submit them as your assignment.

Anyone reading this can gladly visit this link .
I found it interesting id you see in a way the shutter speed can determine you depth of field just as aperture does when shooting portraits...


The faster the shutter speed the less motion blur in the backround.

Well im going to start at 1/125 and work my way to 1/60 ...

Thanks kariselovuo.com/OCA/20​11/07/project-shutter-speed-and-panning/

You need to try panning something with the background first in mind for your shot setup, it only works well if you have interesting background to blur and bring out the motion.

The only thing your sky shots accomplish is that, all other factors equal, it is more in focus than a static shot at the same shutter speed would be, but it's still soft and there's no practical reason you'd need that in most cases.

"Panning" typically refers to a sharp or semi-sharp subject in motion, with an obviously blurred background. To achieve this you really need to shoot something at ground level, so that you will have something to blur out in the background. Try shooting a moving car. Unless the car is on the skyline, this should give you some background objects that you can blur out. Shoot a lot of images, and experiment with different shutter speeds, as well as different vehicle speeds. This will work best if you are in the focus mode called "AI servo", and your drive mode in the fastest burst your camera is capable of. You should keep the active focus point on the car all the way thru the burst.
Much practice will eventually give you just what you are looking for!

First shoot with moving cars need advice.

Shooting airshows in Manual

Shutter speed depends on this what you are shooting. For panning someone walking across the street, you will need 1/10s or even slower, for panning of F1 car speeding by you at 300km/h, 1/200s is more then enough. On top of that it depends on distance between you and object and few other things.
So unfortunately there's no simple rule what time you should use.

delko wrote in post #14429497

Please critisize me hard...

I know these are extremely blurry and poor quality....

I just though a photo will make it easier....

Thanx

The impact of a panning shot is from the impression of movement you give the subject by the motion blur of the background created by the movement of your lens. It's impossible to give that impression when the background is the sky. Other than that, the images are way too small and appear to be considerably blurred or OOF.