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Thread started 20 May 2012 (Sunday) 13:53
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Question for 7d birders

 
stlouis_26
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May 20, 2012 13:53 |  #1

I was wondering what most of you use for your metering on your 7d when shooting birds in flight when they are moving between trees and open sky? Also on a sunny day using a 100 to 400 or any slow lens what do you find is your best ISO? I find myself using ISO 800 a great deal of the time.




  
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Oldjackssparrows
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May 20, 2012 14:52 |  #2

iso 200


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pcr1968
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May 20, 2012 15:23 |  #3

I usually set metering to the evaluative metering or centreweirghted average, generally set to + 0.3 ev as my copy of the 7D underexposes compared to the 50D.

I try to keep my maximum ISO at 640 if I have to go over this I find noise getting more noticeable In Australia we have lots of light so average ISO setting for me would be 400.

Focus for the 100-400L is usually set at alservo for BIF with sensitivity set at fast for around the house where the birds might fly at you and set at zero or slow for larger birds like Ibis, Egret etc at say a wetlands environment.


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No ­ Angle
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May 20, 2012 17:13 |  #4

I shot spot metering and full manual mode with ISO at 800 mostly on the 400 5.6. Sometimes I will bumb the iso to 1000-1250 or down to 640. Noise can be handled with proper exposure and processing in CS5.


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cfcRebel
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May 20, 2012 17:21 |  #5

I use Spot Metering for bird photography. When shooting with my Bigma at 500mm, i need at least ISO400 on sunny day to get fast enought shutter speed. When i had my 7D, ISO800 was my minimum to get enough shutter speed.


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Duane ­ N
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May 20, 2012 18:21 as a reply to  @ cfcRebel's post |  #6

I assume when you ask "between trees and sky" when they're in the trees they're in shade right? Are you asking this question because of an exposure issue in the shade or a noise issue in processing after trying to adjust the exposure problem? Or are you exposing for them in the shade then blowing the subect out when it gets out in the open?

I always shoot in manual, expose for subect and if the background is dark because it was shaded so be it...the subject is exposed properly and that's what I worry about.

When I used my 7D I never went above 400 ISO using my 400mm f/5.6L lens.


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stlouis_26
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May 20, 2012 22:02 as a reply to  @ Duane N's post |  #7

Thanks for all of the replies. I was basically wondering if ISO 800 was that unusual for the bif. As to the metering I find myself shooting birds that may start in the trees (either in sunlight or shade) and move into open sky. I generally try and shoot spot metering in this situation.




  
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jhayesvw
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May 21, 2012 01:07 as a reply to  @ stlouis_26's post |  #8

Here is the great thing about the advice you got today.
All of the people that posted in this thread produce wonderful pictures.
Each person has their own way of getting there.
You'll find the 7d is very capable.

I dont have a 7d but I do have a 60d and they share alot of things.
I use spot metering about 25% of the time and evaluative the rest.
I let my ISO bounce from 100-1600 and havent noticed noise because of it as long
as I dont underexpose.
I shoot manual 90% of the time and AV the rest.



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hollis_f
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May 21, 2012 05:03 |  #9

In unchanging light I'll shoot manual exposure. If the light isn't constant then I'll use evaluative with about 2/3 to 3/2 stops EC. I tend to keep ISO up around 800.


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HokkaidoStu
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May 23, 2012 09:58 |  #10

I shoot in M mode and 90% of the time I use ISO 400.


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Muteki
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May 23, 2012 11:51 |  #11

I also shoot manual exposure 90-95% of the time. When I'm not sure what settings to use, I take initial metering (Evaluative Metering) on grasses, gravels, or something similar colour/brightness as birds before doing my shooting. With the 7D, I find the exposure of the photo is good with a +2/3 to +1 EC. After awhile, you just know what settings to use in various lighting and you can skip the metering steps.


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noodle_snacks
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May 25, 2012 06:59 |  #12

I really recommend M mode.




  
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Billginthekeys
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May 25, 2012 09:21 |  #13

M-mode here too. I generally keep it on spot metering, although I expose to the histogram taking some test shots, and work the exposure from there if the lighting changes. It takes a while to just "know" what settings you will need to start from to get shooting as quickly as possible, but I could just never trust the camera to expose the way I wanted consistently enough.

I would rather come home with some improperly exposed shots and know it was 100% my fault, and correct for it in the future, than leave it up to the camera and screw up shots I could have gotten.

I also usually start at IS0 400 and go up and down from there dependant on the lighting and target shutter speed.


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tomj
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May 25, 2012 13:06 |  #14

"In unchanging light I'll shoot manual exposure. If the light isn't constant then I'll use evaluative with about 2/3 to 3/2 stops EC. I tend to keep ISO up around 800."

Pretty much the same here, although I use a 50d, not a 7d.


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HokkaidoStu
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May 26, 2012 06:39 |  #15

Muteki wrote in post #14473905 (external link)
After awhile, you just know what settings to use in various lighting and you can skip the metering steps.

What he said.


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Question for 7d birders
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