Exif:
ISO 1250
Shutter 1/80
Aperture f/5
Even at 800 is get noise like this. I thought 3200 should still be usable!
This is 1/4 of a frame.
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klimraamkosie Senior Member 900 posts Joined Feb 2012 Location: Houston, TX More info | May 22, 2012 21:55 | #1 Exif:
Gear
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FlyingPhotog Cream of the "Prop" 57,560 posts Likes: 178 Joined May 2007 Location: Probably Chasing Aircraft More info | May 22, 2012 22:00 | #2 Can we see the whole frame please? Jay
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May 22, 2012 22:06 | #3 There's the whole frame, 1024. Can't see much at this size. Gear
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May 22, 2012 22:09 | #4 Here's a closeup of the arm at the top.
Gear
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windpig Chopped liver More info | May 22, 2012 22:22 | #5 Underexposed. It will kill you with the 60D and 7D. Are you shooting RAW? If so, increase you exposure by at least 1/3 and even 2/3 stops and bring it back down in post. Would you like to buy a vowel?
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HyperYagami Goldmember 2,405 posts Joined Nov 2007 Location: Poughkeepsie, NY, USA More info | May 22, 2012 22:23 | #6 looks right. your pic is still underexposed. you'll need noise reduction.
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May 22, 2012 22:52 | #7 Just checking. That shot was at 1250 not 1600 and I've gotten similar results with ISO 800. But I'll try overexposing and also try to read to understand why this happens not just how to circumvent it. Gear
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twistys4me Goldmember 1,168 posts Likes: 193 Joined Mar 2010 Location: Federal way Wa. More info | May 22, 2012 23:22 | #8 This is 12800 iso . Did a 8x10 print and it came out fine. IMAGE LINK: http://jasonwalker.smugmug.com …032629&k=NGHNDHm&lb=1&s=Ahttp://www.jasonwalker.smugmug.com/
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windpig Chopped liver More info | May 23, 2012 06:53 | #10 klimraamkosie wrote in post #14471677 Just checking. That shot was at 1250 not 1600 and I've gotten similar results with ISO 800. But I'll try overexposing and also try to read to understand why this happens not just how to circumvent it. Just making sure the bad noise wasn't just me. I don't consider the picture above usable. I might need to redefine usable then. Thanks for the help/advice ![]() If you expose such that a gray card is RGB 128 in Lightroom with a preset of General-Zero, neutral camera profile and then you white balance; it will then be overexposed with the default LR or ACR presets. What I'm getting at, is that you're better off, especially shooting higher ISO's, to be sure your base RAW capture is proper, (which for me is about +2/3 if shooting in ambient only), then drop the exposure when importing. The amount noise that is eliminated is pretty amazing. I always shoot with a neutral camera style, -4 contrast, 0 all other settings. I can then chimp white on my LCD and set my exposure to 1/3 stop below where the white clips. Making a good guess at light temp for WB is important when doing this. Would you like to buy a vowel?
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May 23, 2012 07:11 | #11 Looks completely find to me and I spend ALOT of time at iso 3200+ A7rIII | A7III | 12-24 F4 | 16-35 GM | 28-75 2.8 | 100-400 GM | 12mm 2.8 Fisheye | 35mm 2.8 | 85mm 1.8 | 35A | 85A | 200mm L F2 IS | MC-11
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May 23, 2012 12:14 | #12 windpig wrote in post #14472697 If you expose such that a gray card is RGB 128 in Lightroom with a preset of General-Zero, neutral camera profile and then you white balance; it will then be overexposed with the default LR or ACR presets. What I'm getting at, is that you're better off, especially shooting higher ISO's, to be sure your base RAW capture is proper, (which for me is about +2/3 if shooting in ambient only), then drop the exposure when importing. The amount noise that is eliminated is pretty amazing. I always shoot with a neutral camera style, -4 contrast, 0 all other settings. I can then chimp white on my LCD and set my exposure to 1/3 stop below where the white clips. Making a good guess at light temp for WB is important when doing this. I sold my 7D because I couldn't justify the noise for the type of shooting I was doing. It's a fine camera, but you've got to get the exposure down, and that can mean shooting at a higher ISO to get that exposure. Do not shoot at anything but 1 stop ISOs if you want to implement the above workflow. Thank you windpig. I'm bookmarking your advice. I really appreciate it, sincerely. Gear
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thedcmule2 Goldmember 1,125 posts Likes: 3 Joined Nov 2011 More info | May 23, 2012 14:50 | #13 To be honest this is normal for a 60D, its noise handling isnt as great as the newer cameras (obviously). Look in the 60D pictures thread, most of the photos have this noisy look, and the 60D needs heavy PP to get a decent picture out of it if you go over ISO400.
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Preeb Goldmember More info | May 23, 2012 15:25 | #14 aximrocks wrote in post #14471811 Looks fine to me, a little bit of noise clean up nicely in Lightroom. Are you expecting noise-free ISO 1250 at pixel level? Even 5D has some noise when viewed at 100%. This is how I look at it. I've not done much with my 60D at high ISO, but I went as high as 3200 with my T1i and cleaned it up very nicely in Lightroom. I can't imagine being limited to ISO 400 like thedcmule2 says the 60D is. That's just crazy. I wouldn't want to shoot all the time at 1600 or 3200, but there is no reason to avoid it if you just take some simple precautions. This is when ETTR is truly your friend, even if you have to bump the ISO higher to get there. Rick
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thedcmule2 Goldmember 1,125 posts Likes: 3 Joined Nov 2011 More info | May 23, 2012 15:48 | #15 Well I certainly didnt say youre "limited to ISO 400" but lets not lie to ourselves, the raw picture files start to deteriorate fast when you shoot over 400 on a 60D. Smearing the photos with noise reduction only limits how large you can export the photo as, the bigger the photo the more the NR smearing shows as well the loss of detail. I shoot at 800-1600 ISO all the time, and it takes heavy processing to get clean images 60D without making it look like a painting.
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