A darker monitor should make you photo processing brighter - the opposite of the bright monitor causing dark prints.
But I always check the histogram.
Makes sense. Thanks!
Jun 01, 2012 14:14 | #16 Titus213 wrote in post #14517126 A darker monitor should make you photo processing brighter - the opposite of the bright monitor causing dark prints. But I always check the histogram. Makes sense. Thanks! Fuji X-T1 | Fuji 18-55 f/2.8-4 | Fuji 35 f/1.4
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Lowner "I'm the original idiot" 12,924 posts Likes: 18 Joined Jul 2007 Location: Salisbury, UK. More info | Jun 02, 2012 03:58 | #17 deronsizemore wrote in post #14516990 How do I know how much is good enough in regard to turning the brightness down? Thats where the monitor calibrator comes in. You make a decision about what CD/m2 you want, based on reading the extremely good stickies here, then the calibrator will guide you in adjusting the luminance (just a posh word for brightness). Richard
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Lowner "I'm the original idiot" 12,924 posts Likes: 18 Joined Jul 2007 Location: Salisbury, UK. More info | Jun 02, 2012 06:02 | #18 I've just run another calibration and here is the result. i try to keep the luminance at 80 Candelas per square metre, and 77.2 is pretty close. Image hosted by forum (598869) © Lowner [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. Richard
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Jun 05, 2012 10:34 | #19 Lowner wrote in post #14519726 Thats where the monitor calibrator comes in. You make a decision about what CD/m2 you want, based on reading the extremely good stickies here, then the calibrator will guide you in adjusting the luminance (just a posh word for brightness). Lowner wrote in post #14519863 I've just run another calibration and here is the result. i try to keep the luminance at 80 Candelas per square metre, and 77.2 is pretty close. Jeez, this just seems really complicated to me... I need to hit Google and started reading. Fuji X-T1 | Fuji 18-55 f/2.8-4 | Fuji 35 f/1.4
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Titus213 Cream of the Crop More info | Jun 05, 2012 10:53 | #20 It can be as complicated as you want it to be.... Dave
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Jun 05, 2012 11:13 | #21 Titus213 wrote in post #14534385 Or as simple as getting a calibration unit that allows control of the luminance (brightness) and letting it do its thing. I'm using a Spyder3 Elite and it works great for my iMac. Then run some prints and see how they look. I suppose I'll have to do that. Thanks. When Spyder3 does its thing and calibrates the monitor, what is it calibrating it to, exactly? I guess that's one thing I've never really understood. Fuji X-T1 | Fuji 18-55 f/2.8-4 | Fuji 35 f/1.4
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Lowner "I'm the original idiot" 12,924 posts Likes: 18 Joined Jul 2007 Location: Salisbury, UK. More info | Jun 05, 2012 12:40 | #22 deronsizemore wrote in post #14534466 I suppose I'll have to do that. Thanks. When Spyder3 does its thing and calibrates the monitor, what is it calibrating it to, exactly? I guess that's one thing I've never really understood. You really do need to read through the stickies. Richard
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Jun 05, 2012 13:48 | #23 Lowner wrote in post #14534826 You really do need to read through the stickies. 10-4 Fuji X-T1 | Fuji 18-55 f/2.8-4 | Fuji 35 f/1.4
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