When you think you have symptoms like this, several tests need to be made.
First, you want to decide that it is front-focusing or back-focusing. In other words, if you have a perfect focus lock on a perfect target at 100 meters, do you get perfect sharpness at that 100 meters and maybe 95 to 110 meters? Or, does it seem to have perfect sharpness at 110 meters, and maybe from 105 to 120 meters? So, that is one issue to be sorted out. This might be the fault of the lens, or it might be the fault of the camera.
Second, when you do get the focus at 100 meters, is it sharp enough for you. Note that marginal lighting conditions will give you squirrelly results. That's probably a lens-only thing.
Now, if you think you have a lens problem, then you should be able to move it over to another normally operating EOS camera and get very similar results. Then when you move the lens back to your original camera, the symptoms will move back. Or if you think you have a camera body problem, then you should be able to move it to another normally operating EF lens and get very similar results.
Unfortunately, you might be in a position where it is difficult to get much help with swapping these things around.
When I got my first film SLR camera, I was in the military on the 38th parallel, and I couldn't find any support in a tough place like that. After shooting it for about one year, I figured out that the symptoms were probably due to lack of experience on my part.
---Bob Gross---