Should I use a Speedlite for this event?

I have volunteered to be one of five photographers for a running/walking race sponsored by the local humane society. There will be several hundred people with hundreds dogs. And kids' races, booths, contests, stuff like that. I won't know my specific 4-hour shift assignment until the morning of the race. I anticipate a very sunny day with harsh shadows and lots of action. I am thinking that fill flash would improve my shooting success...

Camera is 7D, lenses that I plan to use are 24-105 f4 and 70-200 f4. I have a 580EX II but I am a novice at using it. I have a flash bracket, if that helps any.

So, my question is: What is the EASIEST and BEST way to shoot this event? Forget flash? If I use flash, should I use a modifier and which would be the best one for this situation (Stofen pointed straight at subjects? Demb Flip-It? something like that?) I have a bit over a week to decide (and buy appropriate modifier, if necessary)! Any advice is much appreciated

UPDATE: 6/10/2012 I did the event yesterday and had a great time. It was very bright and sunny, as was forecasted. I used my 580EX II in ETTL on almost every shot, and kind of bounced between manual and Av on the camera settings. 'Sunny 16' tended to underexposure so I opened up a stop after a while. Occasionally, I did use HSS sometimes in order to open up the aperture, but because it was 'reportage' and not 'portraiture', the distracting backgrounds just have to be accepted, I think. I tried to keep them clean when I could. Probably my main problem was distance but mostly it was OK. Oh, I took notes on many of the comments that were posted below so I would have a cheat sheet if needed. All photos were edited a bit in Lightroom, too.

Thanks for all your help, POTNers. I think I did OK with your help--much better than if I had not used flash. Here's a link to some of the photos: http://www.travelingli​ghtstudio.me …er-Humane/23481813_XVftH4

Keep in mind that you might need to use high-speed sync in this scenario, which will further decrease your light output in addition to a reflector.

If you aren't totally comfortable using your 580 EX II, I would plan to shoot with ambient light only.

Or, clip that 580 in your 7D and take some practice shoots in similar outdoor lighting

good thread - (by clip do you mean decrease its output manually?)

this may start you in the right direction - it addresses your questions but I'm very curious what others say as they chime in - I'm a flash newbie...

http://www.youtube.com …U08L1vhOlyrY4z1​x3AAaZQ%3D

My apologies - I simply meant slide it onto the camera and practice with it

But no, in this scenario the OP will need all the output they can get, and it might not even be enough depending on subject distance. I would plan to shoot with ambient only. But that's just me.

If it's full sun, at ISO 100 your base exposure is 1/125 @ f/16. Double that to your highest sync speed of 1/250 @ f/11. Shoot the flash straight, any diffuser in full sun just wastes power and does little to improve your image quality. Seen any news photographers with a Stofen ? Nope, me either and I shot for UPI for many years.

Use the short zoom, shoot straight on unless or until you're comfortable panning. Leave the long zoom at home unless you're shooting from a good distance or have a monopod.

Shoot RAW and cary lots of batteries.

The 580 EX II in ETTL works the same for novices that it does for pros. It does all the work for you.

OP, are you stationary or mobile during the event? If you're stationary, I would have your 580 on a lightstand or clamped to something (stop sign, pole, etc) so the flash is hitting their faces. Then either use ETTL or pre-meter it and mark the ground.

If you're mobile, then use your flash bracket and FEC to balance out the output with ambient.

As KC said, only real value of speedlite in this situation is as fill.
Set camera to Av, the maybe -1/2, -1 on Flash Exposure Compensation. Have the speedlite aimed right at the subject. You'll have to stay close with the 24-105. When shutter speed gets too far over the sync speed you will notice that you have to be close because of reduced output.

This sounds like a reportage situation i.e. artistic lighting is well below getting a good documentary image in importance.

If you are shooting the race, find a spot where the runners/walkers will be going under a shady area (overpass, shade of a building or a tree), and set yourself up to photograph them when they go through there. If you are going to be in a fixed area like one of the booths, I would set your flash off camera, and again hope for shade.

Thanks everybody for the suggestions--this is really helping me think about the situation.

JohnThomas wrote in post #14509458
Keep in mind that you might need to use high-speed sync in this scenario, which will further decrease your light output in addition to a reflector.

Or, clip that 580 in your 7D and take some practice shoots in similar outdoor lighting

Oh. I forgot about the HSS problem... I would probably be shooting at f4-f8 depending on how much separation that I wanted from subject to background. I don't know how close I will be to the various events, so I don't know what range I will need with the fill flash in HHS. Can HHS be used at say, 10-15 ft away? Or is that too far?

I think I will practice on my husband this weekend!

Immaculens wrote in post #14509491
this may start you in the right direction - it addresses your questions but I'm very curious what others say as they chime in - I'm a flash newbie...

http://www.youtube.com …U08L1vhOlyrY4z1​x3AAaZQ%3D

Thanks for the link! I liked the final part where he uses a Canon Speedlite and uses Aperture Priority with EC on the flash, sort of like Toneaero suggests below.

K.C. wrote in post #14509568
If it's full sun, at ISO 100 your base exposure is 1/125 @ f/16. Double that to your highest sync speed of 1/250 @ f/11. Shoot the flash straight, any diffuser in full sun just wastes power and does little to improve your image quality. Seen any news photographers with a Stofen ? Nope, me either and I shot for UPI for many years.

Use the short zoom, shoot straight on unless or until you're comfortable panning. Leave the long zoom at home unless you're shooting from a good distance or have a monopod.

Shoot RAW and cary lots of batteries.

The 580 EX II in ETTL works the same for novices that it does for pros. It does all the work for you.

This is the Sunny 16 rule, right? I haven't ever used it but I remember reading about it. It sounds like it would work well to properly expose for the background and the fill would properly expose the people/dogs if they are backlit. But if I want less DOF, I would have to use HHS. Is that correct? So, no diffuser in full sun--I guess everybody agrees with that. I just remember from books all those harsh shadows with portraits using straight flash, so I assumed that I would need a modifier. I guess if fill flash is done properly, it shouldn't be obvious....

I do shoot RAW so that's not a problem--unless the organizers want the photos onsite, immediately. I have an email in asking that question.

You make it sound easy...thanks. It gives me a bit of confidence!

Toneaero wrote in post #14511942
OP, are you stationary or mobile during the event? If you're stationary, I would have your 580 on a lightstand or clamped to something (stop sign, pole, etc) so the flash is hitting their faces. Then either use ETTL or pre-meter it and mark the ground.

If you're mobile, then use your flash bracket and FEC to balance out the output with ambient.

I don't know yet but I am assuming I will be mostly mobile. I have to be there at 6 am and the 5K race doesn't start until 8:30 and I am not done until 12:15. They are having a lot of doggie extra stuff going on, pet expo booths, second chance dog show, etc. Light stand is probably not too feasible. I like your mobile idea the best. I think I have the skill to do that, especially if I can chimp here and there

dmward wrote in post #14512243
As KC said, only real value of speedlite in this situation is as fill.
Set camera to Av, the maybe -1/2, -1 on Flash Exposure Compensation. Have the speedlite aimed right at the subject. You'll have to stay close with the 24-105. When shutter speed gets too far over the sync speed you will notice that you have to be close because of reduced output.

This sounds like a reportage situation i.e. artistic lighting is well below getting a good documentary image in importance.

How much does HSS cut down on the effective distance that flash can be used? Is the 24-105 the right lens for the job? The 70-200 would probably put me too far out of flash range anyway, I guess... You are right about reportage vs artistic but maybe I can find a few artsy shots in 4 hours I just hope the organizers aren't trying to get a photo of everyone and their dog! (This is the 22nd year of this event--it is a very successful fund raiser for the Humane Society.)

davisphotos wrote in post #14512321
If you are shooting the race, find a spot where the runners/walkers will be going under a shady area (overpass, shade of a building or a tree), and set yourself up to photograph them when they go through there. If you are going to be in a fixed area like one of the booths, I would set your flash off camera, and again hope for shade.

That's another good idea that I hadn't thought of because I was so focused on thinking about our bright Colorado sun! If I have the flexibility to choose my locations, I will be looking for that shade! Thanks for pointing that out--sometimes I can overlook the obvious...

THANK YOU ALL! You have given me great suggestions and the confidence to try my flash for this event. You have made it sound easier and simpler to understand than all the books that I have on my shelf! (I have used my flash a few times but never in this kind of deal.) I wasn't thinking about fill flash when I got all excited and volunteered (and, being one of five photographers takes a bit of the pressure off too) but I did get worried when I started thinking about the bright sun/shadows and remembering how many bad shots of similar events that I have seen. I'll be practicing your suggestions in the next week... and wish me luck!

You'll be doing what is typically labeled 'reportage.' Covering an un-choreographed event.

Putting your flash on a light stand has to be one of most limiting things you could do. You are SOL the moment something happens fast and your flash isn't pointed where you want to shoot. Have you seen any news photographers shooting moving subjects this way ? Me either. This is NOT a wedding.

If the event takes place mostly in the sun then shooting everything in a shady spot isn't an accurate depiction of the event.

You don't need HSS and it would just drain batteries way too fast.

Aperture priority is fine if you're vigilant that you're not above your sync speed.

Yes that's the Sunny 16 rule, and yes, this should be an easy thing to shoot. Have fun with it. Do some testing with your friends so you're comfortable and not worried about the camera. That way you can give the subject your undivided attention.

Remember how to control ambient and flash exposures.
Ambient is controlled by ISO, F stop, and shutter speed.
Flash is controlled by ISO, F stop and flash power setting. (Power includes distance between light and subject.)
If you are shooting TTL then the camera meter will set the power for you on a shot by shot basis. So you are left with ISO and F stop.

If you are concerned about losing power via HSS (about 2 stops) then it may be easier to use Tv and set your shutter speed to the sync speed, set ISO to lowest available, and let the TTL take care of the flash power and the meter will also set the F stop for ambient. Then you can use FEC and EC to add a little more ratio control

As someone mentioned, practice, practice.
And use camera angle focal length and composition to add artistic value rather than creative lighting setups. The truth is that the people that want these pictures are more interested in reportage content that creative lighting. If you can make some into hero shots with creative camera angles, and composition so much the better.

K.C. wrote in post #14513489
Putting your flash on a light stand has to be one of most limiting things you could do. You are SOL the moment something happens fast and your flash isn't pointed where you want to shoot.
If the event takes place mostly in the sun then shooting everything in a shady spot isn't an accurate depiction of the event.

I found out that each photographer will each be give a different list of lots of things that the organizers want covered. I will definitely be mobile and won't have to worry about a light stand or being in the shade all the time. I like that idea... There will be over 800 people and maybe 200+ dogs!

K.C. wrote in post #14513489
Do some testing with your friends so you're comfortable and not worried about the camera. That way you can give the subject your undivided attention.

I did some testing this morning in bright sun and discovered a few things which prompts a couple more questions... I manually used f11, ISO 100, 1/250th. I had the 580EX at -2/3 FEC on HSS because someone told me once to just leave it there because if you are shooting at or under the sync speed, it doesn't make any difference because the flash will behave 'normally'. Shots at about 12' gave great natural fill flash (Yay!) but the flash wasn't quite powerful enough at 15-20' to give much fill. Oh, I was at 105mm and the flash head was on auto zoom. The distance guide on the flash agreed with that actual test--it showed a maximum range in the 12-15' at those settings. That sure doesn't seem like much of a distance range. Was I doing something wrong?

dmward wrote in post #14515805
If you are concerned about losing power via HSS (about 2 stops) then it may be easier to use Tv and set your shutter speed to the sync speed, set ISO to lowest available, and let the TTL take care of the flash power and the meter will also set the F stop for ambient. Then you can use FEC and EC to add a little more ratio control

This sounds like a good strategy if/when I opt out of HHS. If I am doing reportage like you guys say, then messy backgrounds may not be as important (or can be dealt with with creative camera angles, like you say below). But I have a general question (and it may be a dumb one) about losing 2 stops of power with HSS. I understand the concept behind HSS and I understand why you are not getting full power with the pulses, and that the batteries drain quicker. However, my question is, if you are in ETTL for fill flash, and using HSS, does that mean that someone say 10' away is 2 stops underexposed compared to the same shot if you are not using HSS? I am not sure that question makes even sense...but I am a little confused... Or, maybe it just means that your subject has to be much closer to use HSS?

dmward wrote in post #14515805
As someone mentioned, practice, practice.
And use camera angle focal length and composition to add artistic value rather than creative lighting setups. The truth is that the people that want these pictures are more interested in reportage content that creative lighting. If you can make some into hero shots with creative camera angles, and composition so much the better.

I have one more week! Lots of time I like your idea of 'hero shots with creative camera angles'--I'll work on that as a new mindset, too. Thanks!

April wrote in post #14517993
However, my question is, if you are in ETTL for fill flash, and using HSS, does that mean that someone say 10' away is 2 stops underexposed compared to the same shot if you are not using HSS? I am not sure that question makes even sense...but I am a little confused... Or, maybe it just means that your subject has to be much closer to use HSS?

Someone will correct me I'm sure, but without HSS and a properly exposed subject at 10 feet with a full power flash, that subject would need to be as close as 2.5 feet with HSS (figuring a 2 stop loss).

April wrote in post #14517993
However, my question is, if you are in ETTL for fill flash, and using HSS, does that mean that someone say 10' away is 2 stops underexposed compared to the same shot if you are not using HSS? I am not sure that question makes even sense...but I am a little confused... Or, maybe it just means that your subject has to be much closer to use HSS?

As long as you're using the ETTL mode, the confirmation light (below the pilot light) will light up if the camera thinks it got the correct exposure.