What are the required settings in order to produce pictures like this.

http://image.yaymicro.​com …-flowing-water-7d8c31.jpg

I have always seen pictures like this and cannot figure it out for the life of me.

A tripod, some neutral density filters, (depending on the lighting outside) and manual mode, and semi long exposures.

Yep, like KA Photography says - tripod and ND filters

Have a look here
http://www.leefilters.​com/index.php/camera/b​igstopper

Lee filters are said to be the best. Thay are also the most expensive (ain't that always the way!)

Don't forget overcast skies. Bright sun will make the water far too bright.

One of the most important things........ location, location, location....

As stated as above... Tripod, ND and CPL filters, great location.

Not really difficult at all with the right tools/location.

just remember you dont want super long exposures as the water gets too soft looking.
try a few different speeds to see what you like best.

Actually you need a Neutral Density filter in order to slow the shutter speed, and a tripod in order to get a steady shot. As mentioned above, you don't want a super explosure, so a filter that reduces the amount of light by 2 or 3 stops is what you need. In such a shot I prefer a great depth of field so consider that the shutter speed will slow also, by closing the aperture.

That link doesn't tell you much in the way of specifics about taking the picture and why things are done. In addition you do not necessary need that rather expensive filter with accessories at the link. Go here http://digital-photography-school.com/waterfall-digital-photography for much better information.

You basically need to shoot in shutter priority so that you can force a shutter speed. Some pro recommend nothing shorter than about 1/15 of a second, but something up around 1/2 to 1 second I find to be more reliable. With speeds like this you need a tripod and preferably a remote shutter release. The internal self-timer can also be used.

OK, the shuuter is now open quite a long time, so we need to reduce the sensor sensitivity to light, reduce the light, or a little of both. So to reduce the sensor sensitivity run the ISO down to 100, even 50 if available. Lets take ISO 100 for an example, that means the basic exposure for bright sun is f/16 at 1/100 second. Usually this type of shot is at its best when shot on an overcast day, so perhaps the exposure is f/8 at 1/100 second. The f/8 is probably good but somehow we need to get the shutter to 1 second, that is where the neutral density filter comes into play. You need a pretty dark one, some densities are recommended at the link. What I have done is to use one of my "old" linear polarizers stacked with a circular polarizer (CPL). The combo works reasonably well for a neutral density filter. Make sure both polarizers are decent and clean as you are adding four layers of glass; the CPL must be mounted nearest the camera, then the linear furthest away. You can buy a variable neutral density fader but they can be very expensive. Then shoot at the higher aperture settings like f/8 or f/11 to avoid vignetting (dark corners) but don't go above f/16 because of other types of lens distortion that might occur. Go here for more details http://digital-photography-school.com …le-neutral-density-filter. All this can get you started, your image quality may suffer a bit from the stacked filters, but once you get into this type of pohotography you can then purchase the dedicated filters needed.

nice write-up John ..

Thanks Cody...I figure no one learns unless you tell them both the how and the why.

I know some people dislike these pictures as being over use of a photographic cliche, but I still like them. I have taken a number of pictures of waterfalls and crashing waves at shutter speeds as long as 15 seconds (maybe even thirty, I will have to look). Obviously a tripod is essential, and at that length of time, it must be pretty stable if there is an breeze. I usually hang my camera bag from a clip when I take this type of picture.

John,

Another compliment on your writeup. One thing I miss on my 60D vs my G12 is the G12 has a 3 stop built-in 3 stop Neutral Density filter, though truth be told, I seldom used it. I do have CPLs for my EOS lenses but will have to add a ND sometime. I'm weird, I guess. I like to see the splashing and or movement of the water. Smoothing it out too much doesn't appeal to me. I don't have a valid reason for this. Perhaps we don't have to justify our preferences.

John, so a question: to get a little smoothing on my 60D, a 3 stop ND or less? On the G12, the CPL alone was often enough for some smoothing. I haven't tried shooting a waterfall or creek/river with my 60D yet.

Phoenixkh, you'll have to do some experimentation with the 60D. For one thing the lenses for it will usually go to a much smaller aperture than the G12, so give that a try, although I earlier said this brings in some distortion. I would try the ND3, minimum ISO, aperture f/16 and see if that can yield a shutter speed of 1/15 or longer.

As long as you have a tripod and can get a shutter of around a quarter of a second, then you can get the trails. You don't NEED filters, they just make it easier to get the shutter speed slower. I always go to ISO-50 and almost always go to f/22 to get the shutter speed I need. If it's dark enough I like to back down to f/16 or so. I am actually getting an ND filter today so that I don't have to use f/22 anymore.

This shot was
ISO-50
f/13
1/2sec shutter