Efs lenses on ef mounts with great results

Over the years I have dabbled in so many different camera bodies that I had many efs lenses and didnt want to purchase another round to fit ef mounts when I already decent efs lenses, I have found that I get great results from my Canon 10-22 on my 1DMKIIn as they did not make a WA for that body, cept a 16-35, or the sigma 10-24, see I already had the 10-22 and to buy another was just not be financially sound, here a list I came up with.

heres a link to the pdf file I created to show the various lenses.
http://dalephill2.com …nses_to_Fit_Ef_​Mounts.pdf


heres a few from the canon 10-22 at 12mm

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So does this modification work with a FF body or only a cropped body?

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick

They will work in the FF bodies but the results are not the same, you'll get alot of barrel distortion and have to zoom out to far to gain what u'd lose in wa, I've had plenty good results with a 28-105 3.5-4.5
on my 1DsMKII, and u can pick these up cheap.
http://reviews.ebay.co​m …de?ugid=1000000​0000771280


Hope that helps

I tried my EF-S 15-85 on my 5D Mk II with these results:

Interesting experiment with the 10-22. I see a little vignetting in the images, but not as much as I'd expect.

Just to clarify...

I see from the PDF at your link that you modified the lens, for it to physically be able to mount on the 1D body at all.

The 1D2N is an EF mount camera, but is not full frame. It's also a crop camera, just 1.3X instead of 1.6X. Or, approx. 18.6mm x 28mm sensor, instead of the 15mm x 22mm sensor of the "EF-S" camera (vs 24mm x 36mm "full frame"). What works partially or completely on a 1D-series camera might not work on a FF camera (1Ds-series or 5D-series). So I think it's risky to make the statement, "Using EF-S lenses on EF cameras", since the EF cameras you use are both crop models: 1D2n (1.3X) and a 10D (1.6X).

All third party lenses use EF mount (not EF-S), even the crop design lenses. So no mofification is needed and they can simply be mounted straight away... though they might vignette if used on a 1.3X or FF camera. Also, particularly with wide, retrofocus designs it's possible that the lens' rear elements would protrude far enough into the camera to physically interfere with the camera's mirror. Of course, that's more of a possibility with the larger mirror in a full frame camera, than with the considerably smaller mirror in the 1.3X 1D-series cameras.

Just considering wide lenses.... Sigma doesn't make a 10-24 lens. They make an 8-16mm, two different 10-20mm and a 12-24mm. The latter truly is a full frame design (and expensive... but the widest non-fisheye lens avail. for full frame). The other three Sigma are "crop" design. Tamron makes a 10-24, also a "crop" lens. Tokina makes 11-16mm and 12-24mm "crop" lenses. All of them use standard EF mount, so will mount on any Canon EOS camera without modification, but should be used with care in case of mirror interference. And they might vignette.

Why buy a pricey Canon 10-22 and have to modify it, when you can buy a quality third party lens that requires no modification for a lot less money? For example, a used Tokina 12-24 sells for around $400-450 US, and new it sells for about $600 US. Used the cheaper version of the Sigma 10-20mm can be found for around $350 US and sells new for about $480. Both of those include the lens hood. In comparison, the Canon EF-S 10-22 runs about $900 US new, by the time you get the lens hood that's sold separately. Used it sells for $600-650 US. And it might be worth less, after it's modified for use on an EF-only mount camera (though it appears the mod to the 10-22mm is reversible, if you don't lose the parts).

I can tell you from testing it on my 5DII, that the Tokina 12-24 is usable on full frame at least 18 or 19mm wide before it starts vignetting. It would be usable even wider on a 1.3X crop 1D-series camera. No modification is necessary. Like all third party lenses, the Toki 12-24mm simply uses the standard EF mount, even though it's a "crop only" design. I haven't tested the 12-24 any wider, not wanting to risk interfering with the mirror.

Looking at the PDF, I don't understand why you are putting the 12mm wire under the UV filter on the 10-22mm lens. Is that to prevent the lens from focusing to it's normal closest point, extending the barrel fully? And is that because the rear element protrudes enough to interfere with the mirror in the camera? If that's the case, it would be a no-go for me, because I wouldn't want to have to keep a filter on the lens all the time and wouldn't want to significantly limit it's close focusing ability. Anyway, instead I'll just spend less and get a lens I don't have to modify.

I had a 10-22 and it worked fine, as long as I didn't go below 12mm on a FF, otherwise the back of the lens and the mirror would interfere with each other. Still, I got rid of it and bought the 17-40.

The 10-22 on a crop is a better lens than the 17-40 is on a FF, imho.

I had a Tokina 11-16 and used it on 5D quite often as a prime lens. It worked very well,

Apparently only at 16mm, from what everybody says. The vignetting gets bad below that focal length. Is that the case ?

The Wire i had under the filter was so that I didnt mistakenly back it off to 10mm as yes the lens would protrude into the body and damage the mirror, I've since taken it off, and just keep in the back of my mind that i check it, I And of course this is not a tag on how to modify but rather on how to use existing lenses that one would already have, I was mistaken on the sigma, ur correct its 10-20, its also 500 dollars, and I already had the canon 10-22, so its more how to use what u got. The 10-22 does work on the ff but u get alot of vignetting, as far as modifying the 10-22 there is none, its only a matter of poping the back button out, in no way does it affect the lens, i'm able to use the lens in my other bodies, and as far as the others u can use on FF ur just not gonna get same results,
FF presents its own challenges for WA, the 10-22 gives me better results than a 16-35 on full frame. any lens less that that will give a fisheye, so I am sticking to the 1*3 bodies,

thanks for the post

bohdank wrote in post #14570367
Apparently only at 16mm, from what everybody says. The vignetting gets bad below that focal length. Is that the case ?

Yes, only 16mm, 15mm is not bad too. After that not usable.

Great lens. Hopefully the guy who got it from me loves it.

Kodakeos from Fred Miranda, here are those pics of the 10-22 on the 1Ds.
As you can see from the metadata, the lens works down to 11mm, but @ 10mm the mirror gets stuck. Vignetting badly after about 17mm.
22mm

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gotta love that 10-22