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Thread started 05 Jul 2012 (Thursday) 13:38
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Flash side Attachments

 
rickp1
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Jul 05, 2012 13:38 |  #1

Hey guys,
I got a quick question. I've seen most star photographers attach their flash to the side of their lens instead in the traditional top mount, why is that, what is the benefit?
If I was looking for one, what's a good one to get?

thanks
R


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Saint728
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Jul 05, 2012 15:31 |  #2

Its usually on the side because when you shoot in portrait mode the flash will be on top of the camera. You can still use it in landscape mode but the flash is on the right side of your camera instead of on top. I use the Custom Brackets CB Mini-RC Camera & Flash Bracket. Its really compact and its made solid so it feels nice attached to the camera.
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …RC_CB_Mini_RC_C​amera.html (external link) You can also get a flash bracket that rotates so the flash is always on top no matter which orientation you are shooting in. http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …RO_M_Camera_Rot​ating.html (external link) There are many others to choose from, but this is just an example of two types.

Take Care,
Cheers, Patrick


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Phototeacher
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Jul 05, 2012 15:59 |  #3

From what I understand, the flip type bracket becomes unwieldly to use in the crowd of photographers in a "red carpet" type situation, and the side mount is easier to handle. As Patrick (Saint728) said, it also puts the flash on top for verticals, which are most common for this type of work. For most users, the flip bracket he describes is more versatile. I like the Custom Brackets Junior model; small and relatively lightweight.
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …unior_Flash_Rot​ating.html (external link)


Ron




  
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Whortleberry
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Jul 05, 2012 16:33 |  #4

I like the Custom Brackets Junior model; small and relatively lightweight.
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com/c/produc..._Rota​ting.html (external link)

Me too, although they aren't quite as good as when they first came out.


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
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rickp1
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Jul 05, 2012 16:47 |  #5

Ok, so it's not for any special benefit on how the light hits the subject or anything like that?

Thanks guys much appreciated.


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Whortleberry
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Jul 05, 2012 17:46 |  #6

I don't think that the equipment (or, indeed, the behaviour) of members of the press 'scrum' (scrimmage in the US?) is really any form of parameter by which to gauge what is or isn't good. It's sheer expedience what they use and how they configure it. Any picture is better than no picture and the way most likely to guarantee at least something is the way to go. In that situation.

Back in the 1930s, Weegee declared "f/16 and be there". Much the same still applies.


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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rickp1
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Jul 05, 2012 18:17 |  #7

Whortleberry wrote in post #14675552 (external link)
I don't think that the equipment (or, indeed, the behaviour) of members of the press 'scrum' (scrimmage in the US?) is really any form of parameter by which to gauge what is or isn't good. It's sheer expedience what they use and how they configure it. Any picture is better than no picture and the way most likely to guarantee at least something is the way to go. In that situation.

Back in the 1930s, Weegee declared "f/16 and be there". Much the same still applies.

To be honest, I can;t comment on it either way. I think most are under the same agreement about their shameless behavior. I was just interested on how they have their gear setup and possibly learn about any advantages in IQ or technique if any, that's all. The few events I've seen (all on TV BTW) showed all of them setup the same way, flash on the side not on top, so naturally I was curious about it.

Again thanks guys.
R


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Beachcomber ­ Joe
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Jul 05, 2012 21:57 |  #8

rickp1 wrote in post #14675297 (external link)
Ok, so it's not for any special benefit on how the light hits the subject or anything like that?

The rotating brackets provide special benefit, at least for event photographers. I can't comment on paparazzi types. The bracket keeps the flash centered above the lens for control of shadows. The extra height above the lens helps eliminate red eye. I use a bracket like this one: http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …_Camera_Flip_Br​acket.html (external link).




  
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v35skyline
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Jul 05, 2012 22:37 |  #9

What's been mentioned is one reason. Another is to achieve the so-called "Terry Richardson" style.


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rickp1
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Jul 06, 2012 11:26 |  #10

v35skyline wrote in post #14676773 (external link)
What's been mentioned is one reason. Another is to achieve the so-called "Terry Richardson" style.

SOrry, I'm not familiar with this, can you elaborate, if you don't mind?

Thanks


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c2thew
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Jul 06, 2012 12:12 |  #11

rickp1 wrote in post #14678976 (external link)
SOrry, I'm not familiar with this, can you elaborate, if you don't mind?

Thanks

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visit this site and you'll see a mix of his style that he made infamous. He gets a lot of flack, but his work is unique.


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Joe ­ Ravenstein
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Jul 06, 2012 12:42 |  #12

I found many moons ago that by moving the flash off to the side you reduce the glowing red eye effect.


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Whortleberry
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Jul 06, 2012 15:08 |  #13

It's not the moving the flash off to the side which reduces red eye, it's moving it off the camera/subject axis in any direction. Even downwards, if you really insist.


Phil ǁ Kershaw Soho Reflex: 4¼" Ross Xpres, 6½" Aldis, Super XX/ABC Pyro in 24 DDS, HP3/Meritol Metol in RFH, Johnson 'Scales' brand flash powder. Kodak Duo Six-20/Verichrome Pan. Other odd bits over the decades, simply to get the job done - not merely to polish and brag about cos I'm too mean to buy the polish!
FlickR (external link) ◄► "The Other Yongnuo User Guide v4.12" by Clive Bolton (external link) ◄► UK Railway Photographs 1906-79 (external link)

  
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Wilt
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Jul 06, 2012 20:06 |  #14

Joe Ravenstein wrote in post #14679343 (external link)
I found many moons ago that by moving the flash off to the side you reduce the glowing red eye effect.

Red eye is only reduced to moving the axis of the flash head farther from the lens optical axis!

Side flash only creates a distracting side shadow in Landscape orientation; When in Portrait orientation it puts the flash higher above and closer to the centerline of the optical axis of the lens, so side shadow is not as pronounced.


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