T3i exposure questions

Telkwa wrote in post #14683043
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Is there a way to under-expose a bit when in macro mode? As soon as I set it to macro, most of the options in the menu disappear. If I'm taking a picture of some bright flowers against darker green background the flowers are blown out. Can I maybe use some of the spot exposure settings?
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I don't yet have a UV filter or polarizing filter, which I need to get ASAP.

Is there a way to tell the camera to under-expose a bit from what it wants all the time?

Page 268 & 269 of the manual will explain which options remain in close up mode. It is difficult to give advice on your closeup exposure issues without seeing some examples, the Canon evaluative metering works remarkably well but can be fooled in extreme circumstances. You will get better advice here if you post some pictures.

I would suggest you try experimenting with the creative zone settings, begin with Av (aperture priority). For the closeup shots try different exposure metering options and see what effect they have. Another option is to use the P mode, I ued to use this a lot when I was first learning, it gives greater control than the basic zone and gives a bit of confidence that you will get a banker shot in before you mess about too much.

I use UV filters on all my lenses for physical protection, but it is a purely personal choice, most modern lenses have excellent UV protection coatings. A polorising filter can be really good but can also be tricky to use, it took me a long time to learn when to use mine and how to use it.

Most important thing is to keep experimenting and ask for feedback. Use the delete button and try again.

The creative modes all allow exposure compensation, the manual suggests tha the CA mode has some sort of exposure compensation but I frankly can not follow what it says, page 269 says it is not available. Exposure compensation is not active on the other basic zone modes, page 269.

Back to the question asked, you can adjust the exposure compensation no problem. I have noticed, with my t3i especially, it's not the most consisten with it's exposures. You really have to get to know the camera and watch the histogram, and the screen to see if it's what you're going for. I'm learning (after a year of owning it) when, and for what, I should consider messing with the compensation. I find that it's been ideal when I underexpose 2/3 of stop in brighter situations. Hope that helps!

Macro mode on a p&s moves the rear element forward allowing close ups. Macro on a dslr only changes the camera settings, the lens is not part of the camera per se. Extension tubes, reversed lenses or a macro lens are the only way to get closer.

For the CPL it works well on any lens. Rotate the front element until you get the desired effect. it is used to reduce glare/reflections. I own a cheap one also and it works well for the few times I use it.

mwsilver wrote in post #14687618
Why do you feel you need to get a UV filter ASAP? Do you intend it for protection, or do you think it will benefit your pictures?

I thought that slapping a UV filter on was just one of those things that everyone did, especially if the camera was going on hiking trips. And, you're right, I do want to protect the lens.

When I'm hiking, weight and bulk (and dirt) are a big concern. The T3i fits like a glove into a LowePro that I had laying around. I'd have to go shopping for a different bag if I added a lens hood. But if a lens hood is what most of you guys use, then I guess that's what I should do.

If the camera was headed for alpine country, does that change the recommendation to forget about a UV filter?

Thanks very much for the education on macro mode. It's great to know that it doesn't affect the lens' close-up ability.

I really appreciate everyone's help. The last time I had a functional SLR (AE-1) was about 20 years ago, so I've got some catching up to do.

EDIT: J37, 2/3 down seems just about right from what I've seen so far with our t3i in alpine country and lots of sunlight.

Telkwa wrote in post #14691439
I thought that slapping a UV filter on was just one of those things that everyone did, especially if the camera was going on hiking trips. And, you're right, I do want to protect the lens.

An ordinary photographic filter offers almost no mechanical protection for a lens. Some folks who shoot in blowing sand or salt water use a filter to keep the blowing stuff off the lens' front element but that's about the only "valid" reason that I can think of for a "protective" filter.

I still have every camera I've purchased since the mid 1960s. I have never once used a filter for "protection" of my lenses and I've shot in some pretty nasty environments such as standing right next to a dirt motocross (motorcycle) racetrack shooting from behind the bikes. None of my heavily used lenses have any visible dings, scratches, or scuff marks on them.

Telkwa wrote in post #14691439
When I'm hiking, weight and bulk (and dirt) are a big concern. The T3i fits like a glove into a LowePro that I had laying around. I'd have to go shopping for a different bag if I added a lens hood. But if a lens hood is what most of you guys use, then I guess that's what I should do.

I would recommend a padded case that has just a little extra room in it and keeping the lens caps on the lenses in the case.

Telkwa wrote in post #14691439
If the camera was headed for alpine country, does that change the recommendation to forget about a UV filter?

Not at all. If you were shooting film, on the other hand, a UV filter sometimes helps with the haze and extra blue tint.

You might try switching to Program Mode first before going to full Manual if you are still learning about your camera. It is still a sort of "automatic" mode, but you can use exposure compensation, adjust your iso, decide whether to use flash or not, etc. That might give you some ideas on why the camera picks certain apertures and shutter speeds in certain situations, but allows you some control over the photo.

You could also try Aperture priority. You pick the aperture you want to decide how much you want in focus(for macro shots you probably want a lower f/stop number(or wide aperature), the camera picks the shutter speed. Again, it can help you understand the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and iso and how they all work together to create a properly exposed picture before you go full on manual mode without understanding how to set the correct settings.

Ace and Deuce wrote in post #14684426
I switched to Manual mode the day after I got my T3i and haven't moved it from there since. It takes some trial & error, but well worth the effort!

QFT, I did the same thing and it makes everything for me better because I am actually learning what needs to be done so that I can get the shots I want, not what the camera wants.

What I do with my camera is to try and take multiple pics of the same thing at different aperature levels, shutter speeds, etc so that I can evaluate what each has done for my photo and then learn from that and make changes for the better.

No, a lot of people do not use "protection" filters... that's just putting more glass between your lens and the subject, which can have a negative effect on images. It's also sort of silly, to expect a thin piece of glass to offer very much protection. Still, some people insist and it makes them feel better... in which case one should consider getting only a high quality, multi-coated filter (B+W MRC, Hoya HD or Pro HMC, etc.) Those aren't cheap, but work best.

A proper, matched lens hood usually does a better job of protection, costs less than a good filter, and can't get in the way of image quality, might even improve it.

Most Canon lens hoods reverse for storage right on the lens and take up virtually no space. The exception is wide angle lens hoods.

When you use the highly automated modes such as the "macro flower", "sports running man", "scenic mountain", etc., or the dreaded "green box", you are seriously limited the adjustments you can make to the camera. You cannot dial in any exposure compensation.

Here's a tip... learn to use Av, Tv, P and M. The first three are still auto exposure, but allow a lot more flexibility and user input. M (and B for that matter) leave you fully in control.

Rather than buy a "protection" filter, get the correct lens hood and then go spend $16 at Amazon on a copy of Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure"... read and understand that book and you will be able to be much more in control of your photography.

The CPL or C-Pol or Circular Polarizer is the most useful of filters, but shouldn't be left on a lens full time (it cuts between one and two stops worth of light, approx.) it provides a number of effects: deepening the blue of the sky, making white clouds "pop", reducing reflections off water, glass and many other surfaces, enriching colors in scenics... It definitely cannot be closely duplicated in post-production software (most other filters can). Same as with a UV or protection filter, get a high quality, multi-coated filter.... and a C-Pol has twice as much glass, so it will be more expensive yet.

One time you shouldn't use any filter is when shooting into the sun, such as a sunset or sunrise. The strong light source striking the lens can cause flare even without a filter. That will be amplified if you also use a filter.

Experimentation such as you are doing is a good way to learn. A book that guides you what to expect and helps you plan your experimentation, rather than just guessing and shooting, will help you learn a lot faster! Take advantage of what other people have learned and put down in writing first, then practice and see how it applies to what you want to photograph and your gear.

amfoto1 wrote in post #14692277
Most Canon lens hoods reverse for storage right on the lens and take up virtually no space. The exception is wide angle lens hoods.
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With the utmost respect to everyone having different tastes and styles. I humbly plea for any lens hood to be stored in a backpack, bag, or what have you, when not in use. Reversing a lens hood looks pretty ridiculous. If whomever does so out of necessity, then I understand.

Nature Nut wrote in post #14694079
With the utmost respect to everyone having different tastes and styles. I humbly plea for any lens hood to be stored in a backpack, bag, or what have you, when not in use. Reversing a lens hood looks pretty ridiculous. If whomever does so out of necessity, then I understand.

A guy walking around with a lens a foot long also look pretty rediculous too, but it's becoming the norm. (Or a non pro paying $3-$6k for a camera and another $6k on a lens seems kinda rediculous too...) If it's not your taste, then don't do it.

Thanks, everyone!
I bought my first SLR (an AE-1) in high school, so I understand the general principles of shutter, ISO, aperture, etc. The AE-1 became unusable about 15 years ago. The film transport stripped out and the foam around the mirror rotted off.

I've only had digital p&s'ers for the last several years. Finally said to myself life's too short and got the t3i. My biggest problems nowadays are poor memory and lousy near vision. Everything's sharp thru the viewfinder, which I'm so thankful for because I couldn't see clearly thru the viewfinder on our Olympus SP-500UZ. But I can't focus close enuf to see all those tiny buttons on the back of the camera very clearly. So I take my readers on & off, on & off. Annoying. Repetition will help with the buttons.

SkipD, thanks very much for that comment about film above treeline. Most of what I know (or think I know) comes from those long-ago days with the AE-1. It never occurred to me that digital might not be affected the same way as film!

Ace and Deuce wrote in post #14687636
Not to hijack, but...I picked up a circular UV polarizer for $20. I know it's probably crap, but it felt pretty solid & heavy, and figured I'd give it a go. I've never used anything like that before, and honestly, don't really know what it's supposed to do. I was going to use it on sunsets and such...is there any particular lens it works better on? Are there any "no-no's" or tips for using one?

Never heard of a circular UV polarizer. Circular Polarizer- yes. UV filter - yes. Combined- no.

Personally, would not expect anything but poorer pictures with a $20 whatever. It's kind of like shooting thru a windshield, or out the screen and window by pointing your camera towards the outside. On a kit lens- you might not notice the loss in IQ as much as perhaps a better lens. For me, I'll use a ND filter, CPL and that is about it. If I was going to expose the camera to water splashes, extreme dusty conditions etc- then maybe a GOOD UV filter. If I worked around young kids- that want to touch the lens with their dirty fingers- maybe I might use a UV filter- or I might just choose to stand back more.

I'm sure you guys knew this, but I was amazed to find that Exposure Compensation retains its setting even after turning the camera off, then on again! I seem to be getting better results cranked down about one f-stop.