Is F2.8 enough?

vinmunoz wrote in post #14685627
How about sell the 60 and..

get the 100mm F2.8 Macro along with my Sigma 17-50mm F2.8

You could, but why do you want the macro?

Get a 100 f2 or a 135 f2 instead...

I just say rent for the event. Give a 70-200mm 2.8 a try. As for the wedding without any type of renting, I really feel your set up will be able to pull in decent results. You'll have to pump ISOs regardless of what lens you have really. It's the nature of the beast. Maybe an 85mm f1.8? At least you'll have a new focal length to utilize.

Personally I don't see the point in selling one macro for another. You don't gain anything by that and the 100mm with require faster shutter speeds to be usable.

Also, a second body isn't required. A nice convenience, but for a wedding you're doing for free I don't see the point unless you're planning on buying a new body anyway.

LowriderS10 wrote in post #14685639
You could, but why do you want the macro?

Get a 100 f2 or a 135 f2 instead...

so i still have macro lens for close shots like on their wedding rings. it's only .8 slower.

what do you think?

ooohhhh requires more shutterspeed because it's non IS?

Carlwashere wrote in post #14685685
I just say rent for the event. Give a 70-200mm 2.8 a try. As for the wedding without any type of renting, I really feel your set up will be able to pull in decent results. You'll have to pump ISOs regardless of what lens you have really. It's the nature of the beast. Maybe an 85mm f1.8? At least you'll have a new focal length to utilize.

Personally I don't see the point in selling one macro for another. You don't gain anything by that and the 100mm with require faster shutter speeds to be usable.

Also, a second body isn't required. A nice convenience, but for a wedding you're doing for free I don't see the point unless you're planning on buying a new body anyway.

I can't rent coz the wedding is in diffrent country and we'll stay there for a month.

vinmunoz wrote in post #14685700
so i still have macro lens for close shots like on their wedding rings. it's only .8 slower.

what do you think?

Please don't take this the wrong way...please. In fact, to show my good intentions, I'll preface this by saying that I took a look at your photos and there is some truly awesome stuff in there, you certainly are a skilled portrait photographer.

With that out of the way, saying things like "it's only .8 slower" makes me think that while you have a good eye for photography (the IMPORTANT thing!!) you should spend some time reading up on equipment, and geeking out on what all the numbers mean. (Less important to a good photograph, but essential none the less).

That 0.8 difference means TWICE the amount of light the lens is able to gather. That's an incredibly huge difference when we're talking about a dimly-lit church, for example.

I would honestly simply buy some extension tubes to use ($100) for the ring shots...leave the dedicated macro rigs for shooting bugs and such. For your purposes, an f2 prime and an extension tube would be much, much more useful than an f2.8 macro.

vinmunoz wrote in post #14685705
ooohhhh requires more shutterspeed because it's non IS?

No, your 60 isn't stabilized either. It requires a FASTER shutter speed (not more shutter speed) because it's LONGER. The longer the lens is (higher mm's) the more it magnifies things INCLUDING camera shake. Therefore, the longer the lens is the faster you have to shoot to get around things like a blurry picture due to the user shaking the camera. The general rule of thumb is, shoot at 1/FL. So if you have a 100 mm lens, shoot at at least 1/100 sec. If you have a 60mm lens, shoot at 1/60 or faster.

Of course, if you have a crop body, you have to multiply those numbers by 1.6.

I'm sorry about that .8 diffrence i mistakenly underestimate. I'm listening to you.

is the 85mm 1.8 good? not bad for my purpose?

vinmunoz wrote in post #14685813
I'm sorry about that .8 diffrence i mistakenly underestimate. I'm listening to you.

is the 85mm 1.8 good? not bad for my purpose?

The 85 1.8 is an excellent lens, sharp, fast, light (don't underestimate the value of a light lens when you're lugging gear around all day haha)...its only major flaw is that at 1.8 in high contrast situations (ie: where dark meets bright on a nice sunny day outside), it can have quite a bit of chromatic aberration (purple fringing). For your purposes, this probably wouldn't matter, since the whole reason you'd get it is to shoot in LOW light, comparatively low contrast situations. I sold mine and bought the 100 f2, which I'm much, much happier with, but I think the 85 would serve you well for weddings.

EDIT: since you'll be likely using it indoors on a crop body, an 85 may be a slightly more useful focal length than the 100 as well. On my full frame, I really like the reach of a 100, but I would likely find it too long on a crop.

i'll look for the 100 F2 then. requires faster SS though especially i have crop body.

thank you for your time and knowledge. this will really help me.

vinmunoz wrote in post #14685825
i'll look for the 100 F2 then. requires faster SS though especially i have crop body.

thank you for your time and knowledge. this will really help me.

No worries, glad to have helped...honestly, the 85 will serve you well too, and they're slightly cheaper and much more readily available (most stores will have the 85, but not the 100, for some reason).

Have a good day!

Have a good day too. I really appreciate.

1Tanker wrote in post #14685539
What about renting a 70-200 2.8L IS?

**Bingo**

I wouldn't leave home (or shoot a no flash ceremony) without one.

2.8 is fine for 90% of your day. Pump the ISO at the church (70-200) and in dimmed/romantic ballrooms use 2.8 & flash for the 17-50. Canon E-TTL simply rocks, providing excellent exposures shooting tight groups in fluid environments. . candle lit dining? . with your 17-50, get cha' a 3 ft off camera flash cord, a demb flip-it (the big one) bounce card and hold that rig up and out from the camera axis but with the focus assist beam pointing at your prey - Shoot at 2.8, 400 ISO, control ambient (background) with your shutter, . . to save batteries and stop action start at sync-speed (200, 250 on the 60D?) and drag (slow) the shutter (when subject motion allows) to bring up ambient, . . kick back and let Canon E-TTL do the rest. FEC is just a dial away, but you will be amazed how often E-TTL gets it right.

As for that fast prime to get those 10% art shots: Rings, Shoes, Cake, tight- dreamy-people shots - 50 1.4 will get all that done for you and more as on a crop and it also pulls double duty as fast, sharp indoor portrait lens.

17-**, 70-200 2.8 along with a 1.4 50 will cover the whole shebang. Sprinkle in a whole bunch of E-TTL and you will walk away King.

Lensrentals.com will fix you up. It's a no brainer, as this will add your portfolio, and more importantly, it is for family - you want to go in to win. There are times when renting makes a lot of sense - this could be one of them.

Go to lensrentals.com (they rock BTW) and punch in what it would cost you for a 3 day rental for: 70-200 2.8 II, and a backup 60D. While you’re at it if you like and use your 60mm instead of flipping it for a 50 why not keep it and rent a 35L? On a crop many would prefer 35 over 50 for their only fast prime.

And yes, . . you need back up body - if you are the principle shooter you never want to explain to a B&G why there wedding is done on a borrowed point&shoot 'cause your camera froze. But more importantly, when solo shooting a wedding it rocks to mount your 2 main lenses and work with 2 bodies. Less fumbling around and no missed shots (or stuck at a poor focal range for impromptu moments. Price out a rental, you may be surprised.

doc.paradox wrote in post #14685856
**Bingo**

I wouldn't leave home (or shoot a no flash ceremony) without one.

2.8 is fine for 90% of your day. Pump the ISO at the church (70-200) and in dimmed/romantic ballrooms use 2.8 & flash for the 17-50. Canon E-TTL simply rocks, providing excellent exposures shooting tight groups in fluid environments. . candle lit dining? . with your 17-50, get cha' a 3 ft off camera flash cord, a demb flip-it (the big one) bounce card and hold that rig up and out from the camera axis but with the focus assist beam pointing at your prey - Shoot at 2.8, 400 ISO, control ambient (background) with your shutter, . . to save batteries and stop action start at sync-speed (200, 250 on the 60D?) and drag (slow) the shutter (when subject motion allows) to bring up ambient, . . kick back and let Canon E-TTL do the rest. FEC is just a dial away, but you will be amazed how often E-TTL gets it right.

As for that fast prime to get those 10% art shots: Rings, Shoes, Cake, tight- dreamy-people shots - 50 1.4 will get all that done for you and more as on a crop and it also pulls double duty as fast, sharp indoor portrait lens.

17-**, 70-200 2.8 along with a 1.4 50 will cover the whole shebang. Sprinkle in a whole bunch of E-TTL and you will walk away King.

Lensrentals.com will fix you up. It's a no brainer, as this will add your portfolio, and more importantly, it is for family - you want to go in to win. There are times when renting makes a lot of sense - this could be one of them.

Go to lensrentals.com (they rock BTW) and punch in what it would cost you for a 3 day rental for: 70-200 2.8 II, and a backup 60D. While you’re at it if you like and use your 60mm instead of flipping it for a 50 why not keep it and rent a 35L? On a crop many would prefer 35 over 50 for their only fast prime.

And yes, . . you need back up body - if you are the principle shooter you never want to explain to a B&G why there wedding is done on a borrowed point&shoot 'cause your camera froze. But more importantly, when solo shooting a wedding it rocks to mount your 2 main lenses and work with 2 bodies. Less fumbling around and no missed shots (or stuck at a poor focal range for impromptu moments. Price out a rental, you may be surprised.

Great advice, but you missed the part where he said it's impossible to rent, since he's going away for a month

It sounds to me like a body with higher ISO capabilities would be more useful than lenses that are faster than 2.8? That would get the shutter speeds up and keep the DOF broader to increase the in focus keepers. As far as the 100 macro goes, the L model is a superb portrait lens but it's slow to focus through its range, so not much good for candids. The new 70-200 2.8 is great for that and sharp from 2.8.
Buy a 70-200 2.8 II and resell when you return.
I'm no wedding shooter- just my 2 cents