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Thread started 08 Jul 2012 (Sunday) 16:38
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Bill ­ Ragosta
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Jul 08, 2012 16:38 |  #1

I'm learning photography and doing my best to upgrade my equipment. At the moment, I'm getting to the point where I've got a pretty good camera body and decent lenses as well but I've been ignoring the lens filters and flashes because there's only so much cash to go around.

I'm leaving for an Alaskan trip in two weeks and I'm curious what everyone thinks about filters. I have inexpensive CPL filters for my 18-55 IS and my Tamrom 18-270 PZD but I think I also need one for my Sigma 150-500 OS, right? I'll probably be using it a lot for breaching whales, puffins, eagles and assorted other wildlife photos on and around the water. I'm also in need of at least one neutral density filter, maybe a 3 stop, for each of the shorter lenses as well. Can anybody tell me if the CPL is absolutely necessary for this trip with the Bigmos and would anyone like to make suggestions about what I need otherwise. I think I'm going to sell another lens on the classifieds here and hopefully use the proceeds to purchase at least that one 86mm CPL.

Thanks.


Canon 60D, Canon 30D with grip, EF 70-300 IS USM, Tokina AT-X Pro 100 f/2.8 macro, EF 100-400 1:4.5-5.6L, EF-S 15-85 IS USM, Sigma 50 f2.8 macro EX, 430 EX II

  
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rick_reno
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Jul 08, 2012 17:09 |  #2

Do you have a tripod? I'm sure you'll get beat up over the inexpensive CPL filters, but if they're working for you that's great.




  
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Bill ­ Ragosta
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Jul 08, 2012 17:11 |  #3

Well, my tripod's also very cheap and definitely in need of a big upgrade but I wasn't planning on taking it to Alaska anyway, but I will take my monopod. The inexpensive CPLs seem to be working OK but they do give the lenses fits when auto-focusing. Since I mostly use them for landscape and water pics, it doesn't bother me that much to take my time and focus manually.


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Sirrith
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Jul 08, 2012 18:56 |  #4

If they're affecting AF, they might not be CPLs, but rather, linear polarisers. Stick with hoya, marumi, or B+W for filters.


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Bill ­ Ragosta
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Jul 08, 2012 19:28 |  #5

Sirrith wrote in post #14689093 (external link)
If they're affecting AF, they might not be CPLs, but rather, linear polarisers. Stick with hoya, marumi, or B+W for filters.

No, they're definitely CPL but, as I said, low end stuff. Thanks for the advice on manufacturers but that leads to another question. Is one Hoya (or Marumi or B+W) CPL filter the same as the next or does every manufacturer sell several different models of CPL, ND, UV, etc. filters?


Canon 60D, Canon 30D with grip, EF 70-300 IS USM, Tokina AT-X Pro 100 f/2.8 macro, EF 100-400 1:4.5-5.6L, EF-S 15-85 IS USM, Sigma 50 f2.8 macro EX, 430 EX II

  
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tonylong
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Jul 09, 2012 14:30 |  #6

You know, it's been several years since I dug into and bought filters, so I can't answer your last question. In fact the only bits of advice I can pass on to you is what stuck out for me:

First, don't go cheap! Cheap filters can have unpleasant issues, including IQ issues.

As to ND filters, well, one solution is to get a "kit" with a frame and then a set of rectangular filters. You can get a frame that will fit your larger lens, then adapters so that it will be able to be mounted on your smaller lenses. And, this type of setup works well with both ND filters and, if you are interested, Graduated Neutral Density filters as well.

I would suggest getting more than one ND filter. A three stop would work well for some things but is pretty "light-weight" for other things. You could get that and then a "heavier" one and even combine them for real heavy-duty use...

A kit like this can be bought from the Lee company:

http://www.leefilters.​com/index.php/camera/s​ystem (external link)

I don't have a Lee kit (although I do have a similar setup by Cokin) but people here who have gotten Lee kits have been happy with them.

Or, you could spend more for a Singh Ray Vari-ND filter:

http://singh-ray.com/varind.html (external link)

Again, get one for your bigger lens and adapters for your smaller ones.

I haven't been on a cruise ship as a DSLR photog, but I would really encourage you to read up on the idea of taking a good tripod. And, I don't know what kind of moisture you would encounter on-board in terms of spray and such, but if that will be a factor then it would be one of the rare occasions where if it were me I'd look at using a "protective" filter. In fact, not long ago I saw an article about a filter that was especially designed to protect from moisture. I just don't recall the details!


Tony
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Bill ­ Ragosta
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Jul 09, 2012 15:27 as a reply to  @ tonylong's post |  #7

Thanks for the advice and opinions Tony. That Lee set up is something. I think I'll try to go with a nicer CPL for my big lens for the time being and put off the ND filters until some later date. I can use a CPL on the shorter lenses which will give me some of the same, albeit limited, effect of the ND filters. When time and money allow I'll try to do it right.


Canon 60D, Canon 30D with grip, EF 70-300 IS USM, Tokina AT-X Pro 100 f/2.8 macro, EF 100-400 1:4.5-5.6L, EF-S 15-85 IS USM, Sigma 50 f2.8 macro EX, 430 EX II

  
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Bill ­ Ragosta
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Jul 09, 2012 15:32 |  #8

You know, that brings me to another question. Assuming I use the CPL and the lens hood with my Sigma 150-500, I won't be able to turn the CPL. Should I ditch the hood or try to get the filter where I like it, attach the hood and leave everything else alone?


Canon 60D, Canon 30D with grip, EF 70-300 IS USM, Tokina AT-X Pro 100 f/2.8 macro, EF 100-400 1:4.5-5.6L, EF-S 15-85 IS USM, Sigma 50 f2.8 macro EX, 430 EX II

  
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WaltA
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Jul 09, 2012 16:18 |  #9

Bill Ragosta wrote in post #14693120 (external link)
You know, that brings me to another question. Assuming I use the CPL and the lens hood with my Sigma 150-500, I won't be able to turn the CPL. Should I ditch the hood or try to get the filter where I like it, attach the hood and leave everything else alone?

Bill, I've found theres 3 answers to your question about how people use the CPL with a lens hood.

1 - Take the hood off - adjust the CPL - put hood back on
2 - Dont use the hood with the CPL
3 - Use a dremel to drill some slots in the lens hood so you can adjust the CPL.

Ok then theres the 4th - if you have smaller fingers you can reach in and turn the CPL with the lens hood on.


Walt
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WaltA
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Jul 09, 2012 16:22 |  #10

Bill Ragosta wrote in post #14693120 (external link)
You know, that brings me to another question. Assuming I use the CPL and the lens hood with my Sigma 150-500, I won't be able to turn the CPL. Should I ditch the hood or try to get the filter where I like it, attach the hood and leave everything else alone?

Also I have CPLs on 2 of my lenses and I'm trying to get more use out of them. I have my own question related to yours.

When you read up on how to best use a CPL, everyone says to use it when your taking a photo that is at a 90 degrees angle from the sun.
On a long zoom lens (like your 150-500), if you have a lens hood, its usually a very deep one. probably 5 or 6 inches long or more. Theres no light at all coming in to your lens from the sides - doesn't this negate the whole effect that a Polarizing filter is supposed to have on light?


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tonylong
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Jul 09, 2012 17:49 |  #11

WaltA wrote in post #14693362 (external link)
Also I have CPLs on 2 of my lenses and I'm trying to get more use out of them. I have my own question related to yours.

When you read up on how to best use a CPL, everyone says to use it when your taking a photo that is at a 90 degrees angle from the sun.
On a long zoom lens (like your 150-500), if you have a lens hood, its usually a very deep one. probably 5 or 6 inches long or more. Theres no light at all coming in to your lens from the sides - doesn't this negate the whole effect that a Polarizing filter is supposed to have on light?

I haven't delved into and absorbed the science and technical details, so I might be off in some way, but polarization is about the fact that reflected light waves come to us at various "angles", ie "polarized". The filter cuts out certain angles of polarization, so it's not about light coming from the sides, but reflected and hitting the lens/filter. The position of the sun affects the degree of polarization, I guess...

CPLs can be effective cutting down on non-metallic reflections and also in cutting down light reflections which can allow for more "saturated light" from things like blue sky, green grass, etc.


Tony
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Bill ­ Ragosta
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Jul 09, 2012 19:48 |  #12

WaltA wrote in post #14693349 (external link)
Bill, I've found theres 3 answers to your question about how people use the CPL with a lens hood.

1 - Take the hood off - adjust the CPL - put hood back on
2 - Dont use the hood with the CPL
3 - Use a dremel to drill some slots in the lens hood so you can adjust the CPL.

Ok then theres the 4th - if you have smaller fingers you can reach in and turn the CPL with the lens hood on.

Well, the 4th won't be an option for me. :)


Canon 60D, Canon 30D with grip, EF 70-300 IS USM, Tokina AT-X Pro 100 f/2.8 macro, EF 100-400 1:4.5-5.6L, EF-S 15-85 IS USM, Sigma 50 f2.8 macro EX, 430 EX II

  
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Bill ­ Ragosta
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Jul 09, 2012 20:03 |  #13

OK, and yet another question. I'm trying to avoid spending several hundred dollars on a CPL for this lens but on the other hand, there's really no point in buying a cheap filter that will cause issues. I went to B&H and Adorama to look at filters and most are well over $100 but Adorama has the Vivitar Series 1 86mm CPL for $69. OK, that seems like it's probably not a throw away and might work but I was curious if they sold on Ebay for less or if I could get free shipping. Ebay has the Vivitar Series 1 86mm CPL for $11.99 plus free shipping, so what gives?

The picture on Ebay simply shows the words Vivitar cpl whereas the Adorama website shows a picture with "series 1" written on the filter. Could it be the same filter? Is the Ebay seller advertising a non-series 1 as a series 1? What?

Assuming that they are the same or even if they are not, is the "real" Vivitar Series 1 CPL any good? I realize that I'm asking a lot of questions here but there doesn't seem to be a ton of information out there on filters and different models and series.


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WaltA
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Jul 10, 2012 09:50 |  #14

I bought a B+W CPL for my walkaround lens and it cost about 175CDN.

Buying lenses and filters on eBay can be interesting. You're never sure if whats in the picture is what your buying. Vivitar is a pretty cheap line of filters - I see a 67mm CPL on Amazon for 6.99. I don't have L lenses but I wouldn'y put a $6.99 filter on any of them.

I recently bought a B+W CPL from a used camera gear place here in Calgary last week for 25 bucks. Gonna try it out on a road trip thru the North Cascades next week and see if it was worth it.


Walt
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WaltA
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Jul 10, 2012 09:53 |  #15

tonylong wrote in post #14693714 (external link)
I haven't delved into and absorbed the science and technical details, so I might be off in some way, but polarization is about the fact that reflected light waves come to us at various "angles", ie "polarized". The filter cuts out certain angles of polarization, so it's not about light coming from the sides, but reflected and hitting the lens/filter. The position of the sun affects the degree of polarization, I guess...

CPLs can be effective cutting down on non-metallic reflections and also in cutting down light reflections which can allow for more "saturated light" from things like blue sky, green grass, etc.

That makes sense, Tony. I guess if your not into the physics of it the next best thing is to do some testing with various lens hoods and without the hood and do comparisons of how well the CPL worked.


Walt
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