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Thread started 10 Jul 2012 (Tuesday) 03:54
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The unique look of Leo Gren

 
Hermanssson
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Jul 10, 2012 03:54 |  #1

Hello!

This is my first thread since registering :D

Since a couple of years, one specific photographer has kept me confused and impressed with his amazing ability to get a soft and calm look in his portraits but without "dream glow" or overkill skin softening and a fakeish result. Although some of his photos are low contrasty, they still seem to have good contrast. Although they seem soft, they still have excellent sharpness. You see the paradoxes here, right? That is what makes me equally confused and impressed!

Here's his website: http://www.leogren.com (external link)

And here's a couple of samples which prove what I'm talking about:

http://leogren.com …ig/leonard_gren​_-_082.jpg (external link)
http://leogren.com …ig/leonard_gren​_-_118.jpg (external link)
http://leogren.com …ig/leonard_gren​_-_103.jpg (external link)
http://leogren.com …g/leonard_gren_​-_111a.jpg (external link)
http://leogren.com …ig/leonard_gren​_-_112.jpg (external link)
http://leogren.com …g/leonard_gren_​-_101a.jpg (external link)
http://leogren.com …g/leonard_gren_​-_099a.jpg (external link)
http://leogren.com …g/leonard_gren_​-_050a.jpg (external link)
...and the list goes on. Most of his portraits apply.

What do you think his main methods are? I can totally tell that most of his pics have very even and soft lighting which probably is a result of precise and smart pre production, but what else does he do to create this magic?

I also can't understand how he maintains the amazing detail and sharpness in his photos although they are only a couple of hundred pixels high/wide. Whenever I resize my photos down to <800px they seem to lose most of the detail and sharpness. And if they don't (with bicubic/bicubic sharper f.e.) I get sharpening halos or a "crispy" look that is not natural. Leo's photos look like they are very high resoluted when they in fact are not. How does he do it?

Usually when this kind of "analyze this photographer's unique style" threads come up, you get the answer "Why dontcha ask him?!" but I have done that already, and unfortunately he doesn't give out any of his secrets. Not even a clue.

All analysis and comments are welcome. Thanks!


Swedish 24 year old freelance (part time) photographer
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chauncey
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Jul 10, 2012 10:36 |  #2

He is accomplished...at pre and post production work. That means a pre-visualization, knowledge of how to achieve "the look" during the shoot, and PP, of your goals. If it was simple, clowns like me could do it. ;)


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dave_p
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Jul 10, 2012 12:37 as a reply to  @ chauncey's post |  #3

There are several different post processing treatments in those photos. Just for giggles, and because I'm avoiding work, I'll comment on the first image you linked to (http://leogren.com …ig/leonard_gren​_-_082.jpg (external link)). I'm going to try not to get all preachy because I don't know for sure everything he did, but here are some guesses:

The left side of the image has a very cool (blue) white balance. The right side looks to be on the warm side...probably done in post (at least for the blue on the left, key light might have had a warm gel). The color in the eyes has been popped in post. The key light (the warm one) is very soft (so very big or very close), and from the model's perspective it would be just to the left of where she's looking. There's a rim light hitting her right jaw and a little bit of her right ear. If the photo of the model was taken outdoors (and I'm starting to have my doubts), it was carefully balanced with ambient. For sharpening, try using "Smart Sharpen" when the image is at full size. Then re-size your image (I use Fit Image) and then use "Smart Sharpen" again. Also the colors overall are really vibrant, perhaps due to some LAB work (here's a decent technique: http://tutorialpulse.c​om …ue-to-enhance-saturation/ (external link)).

The second one (http://leogren.com …ig/leonard_gren​_-_118.jpg (external link)) has kind of a "glazed" look that you can sometimes get by lowering the contrast of the image and creating a solid color fill layer at low opacity. There's some discussion of this look over on Model Mayhem. Use your favorite search engine and search for "Model Mayhem glazed look"...work won't let me visit MM.

The rest are good photos, certainly, but I don't see many super fancy tricks being employed.




  
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Hermanssson
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Jul 10, 2012 15:41 |  #4

Thanks a lot guys, especially you dave_p for your thoughtful and well figured ideas about his work. I agree about a lot of the things you mention, even though my own PS skills are limited in some areas of the application. The pre production part is also kind of new to me, especially when it comes to these important details. But I love learning from the pros and I'll keep trying to figure out their techniques and by copying their work I'll hopefully find my own way and my own unique look :)

I already use Smart Sharpen, but usually only after resizing. I don't know about the "Fit image" technique but I'll look that up. Is that superior to resizing with bicubic?


Swedish 24 year old freelance (part time) photographer
Canon EOS 5D Mark II & Canon EOS 400D
Canon EF 35 1.4L USM, Canon EF 17-40 4L IF USM, Canon EF 85 1.8 USM & Tamron 90 SP AF 2.8 Di Macro + Canon Speedlite 580 EX II & 2x Sigma EF-500 DG Super

  
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dave_p
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Jul 10, 2012 16:17 |  #5

To be honest, I'm not sure what method "Fit Image" uses to resize. It's just under File>Automate>Fit Image. For all I know it could be the absolute worst way to to resize, to be honest I haven't researched that too much. But I have a lot of luck sharpening at the full size and then also sharpening after reducing in size. In fact, if you're a little selective with your sharpening, you can over-sharpen it before reducing the size, and still do the second pass of sharpening.




  
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Hermanssson
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Jul 11, 2012 00:25 |  #6

dave_p wrote in post #14698345 (external link)
To be honest, I'm not sure what method "Fit Image" uses to resize. It's just under File>Automate>Fit Image. For all I know it could be the absolute worst way to to resize, to be honest I haven't researched that too much. But I have a lot of luck sharpening at the full size and then also sharpening after reducing in size. In fact, if you're a little selective with your sharpening, you can over-sharpen it before reducing the size, and still do the second pass of sharpening.

Very interesting. I will try it out tonight! Thanks!


Swedish 24 year old freelance (part time) photographer
Canon EOS 5D Mark II & Canon EOS 400D
Canon EF 35 1.4L USM, Canon EF 17-40 4L IF USM, Canon EF 85 1.8 USM & Tamron 90 SP AF 2.8 Di Macro + Canon Speedlite 580 EX II & 2x Sigma EF-500 DG Super

  
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madjack
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Jul 11, 2012 00:58 as a reply to  @ Hermanssson's post |  #7

He sure knows how to pick his subjects.


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René ­ Damkot
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Jul 11, 2012 04:15 |  #8

dave_p wrote in post #14698345 (external link)
To be honest, I'm not sure what method "Fit Image" uses to resize.

The default that's set in the PS preferences.

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dave_p
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Jul 11, 2012 07:37 |  #9

Thanks, Rene!!




  
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Hermanssson
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Jul 11, 2012 09:23 |  #10

René Damkot wrote in post #14700655 (external link)
The default that's set in the PS preferences

Which means that there's no difference between the usual resizing and that one if the resampling method chosen is the same?


Swedish 24 year old freelance (part time) photographer
Canon EOS 5D Mark II & Canon EOS 400D
Canon EF 35 1.4L USM, Canon EF 17-40 4L IF USM, Canon EF 85 1.8 USM & Tamron 90 SP AF 2.8 Di Macro + Canon Speedlite 580 EX II & 2x Sigma EF-500 DG Super

  
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René ­ Damkot
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Jul 12, 2012 05:30 |  #11

Yep.


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The unique look of Leo Gren
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