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Thread started 10 Jul 2012 (Tuesday) 09:21
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It's Already 2AM: 30th Edition... Momma said if we keep doing this we'll go blind.

 
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iLvision
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Jul 28, 2012 22:51 |  #6706
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jdizzle wrote in post #14784003 (external link)
Just get a 5D 3.

Will do, just cuz you said it :D


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laxlife1234
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Jul 28, 2012 22:51 |  #6707

iLvision wrote in post #14784006 (external link)
And the kid who can’t spell “can’t” :p

I was using shift to type in caps :p didn't feel like stopping :lol:

Just buy a 5D3 and be happy for a few days :p




  
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Dr ­ Manhattan
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Jul 28, 2012 22:51 |  #6708
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laxlife1234 wrote in post #14783971 (external link)
All you need to do is give them the 10 step guide ;)


I mean I know how to use layers in PS if thats what you're saying? I'm not a total noob, just not sure on how to do advanced composite work. I'd like to get into it though images are sweet.

How he developed the technique is basically you're painting light to achieve depth. Which is not hard, it's just time consuming.

Right now he's using high end blads and actual whole setups and using strobes to do everything individually light object according to the orientation it's going to be in the composite.

You can honestly replicate all of this lighting without using one strobe, i've done it before and it turned out pretty decent for the subject matter.

Basically you take a picture of somebody and you seperate their body into multiple layers according to a range of depth. If their hand is closer to you than say their shoulder you make each of those a layer and you dodge/burn whatever is closer to you to be brighter and add in your own shadow yourself. You do this in any depth change that would be estimated in the shot and it makes it become 3d and unreal like that.

How I do it is I make my selections on my estimates. For one person if you want to do a good job you can hit 100-200 layers easily. Then I use Load selections to craft the lighting through dodge burn (i have my own opacities i usually use depending on the nature of the background). You edit locally each one, and with the load select you can't affect anything out of that selection. Be careful to name and organize your layers because you'll want to adjust them accordingly to blend it together right.

Once you layer in that person you can do it to different parts of the pictures in different PSD's and just copy them over and organize using it's layer topology.


-Scotty

  
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jdizzle
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Jul 28, 2012 22:51 |  #6709

iLvision wrote in post #14784001 (external link)
You have a D3s, 1Ds3 AND you got a 1Dx?!... man you’re insane.... ANd RICH for that matter! :D

:lol: I used to have a D3. I have a 1Ds III and D800 with a 1D X on order. ;) I'm not rich. I work hard to get my money.




  
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Dr ­ Manhattan
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Jul 28, 2012 22:52 |  #6710
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Also when two layers meet, be sure that the depth of light matches up to the adjacent layer.


-Scotty

  
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iLvision
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Jul 28, 2012 22:53 |  #6711
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laxlife1234 wrote in post #14784009 (external link)
I was using shift to type in caps :p didn't feel like stopping :lol:

Just buy a 5D3 and be happy for life :p

Corrected. (I try hard not to be like you) :p:p:p


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jdizzle
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Jul 28, 2012 22:53 |  #6712

iLvision wrote in post #14784007 (external link)
Will do, just cuz you said it :D

I'm serious. I think the 5D 3 will be all you need.:)




  
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Dr ­ Manhattan
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Jul 28, 2012 22:53 |  #6713
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jdizzle wrote in post #14784011 (external link)
:lol: I used to have a D3. I have a 1Ds III and D800 with a 1D X on order. ;) I'm not rich. I work hard to get my money.

I think you'll sell your 1ds mark III once you get the 1DX.


-Scotty

  
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iLvision
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Jul 28, 2012 22:54 |  #6714
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Dr Manhattan wrote in post #14784014 (external link)
Also when two layers meet, be sure that the depth of light matches up to the adjacent layer.

Micrometer stops micrometer heads that are mounted on the table of a manual milling machine, bedways of a lathe, or other machine tool, in place of simple stops


Ilya | Gear | flickr (external link) D800| 14-300mm f/1.4GL ED VR III USWM

  
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iLvision
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Jul 28, 2012 22:54 |  #6715
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Dr Manhattan wrote in post #14784020 (external link)
I think you'll sell your 1ds mark III once you get the 1DX.

I think he should donate it to me.


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laxlife1234
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Jul 28, 2012 22:55 |  #6716

Dr Manhattan wrote in post #14784010 (external link)
How he developed the technique is basically you're painting light to achieve depth. Which is not hard, it's just time consuming.

Right now he's using high end blads and actual whole setups and using strobes to do everything individually light object according to the orientation it's going to be in the composite.

You can honestly replicate all of this lighting without using one strobe, i've done it before and it turned out pretty decent for the subject matter.

Basically you take a picture of somebody and you seperate their body into multiple layers according to a range of depth. If their hand is closer to you than say their shoulder you make each of those a layer and you dodge/burn whatever is closer to you to be brighter and add in your own shadow yourself. You do this in any depth change that would be estimated in the shot and it makes it become 3d and unreal like that.

How I do it is I make my selections on my estimates. For one person if you want to do a good job you can hit 100-200 layers easily. Then I use Load selections to craft the lighting through dodge burn (i have my own opacities i usually use depending on the nature of the background). You edit locally each one, and with the load select you can't affect anything out of that selection. Be careful to name and organize your layers because you'll want to adjust them accordingly to blend it together right.

Once you layer in that person you can do it to different parts of the pictures in different PSD's and just copy them over and organize using it's layer topology.

See - that's exactly the process I could've guessed. I remember seeing a video for one of those guys known for doing similar processes. I know it would take me a long time to do though, I'm sure it's fun though.

Do you have the example of when you did it? The only reason I don't want to bother with it is because it takes a ton of practice and is time consuming.




  
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Dr ­ Manhattan
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Jul 28, 2012 22:56 |  #6717
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laxlife1234 wrote in post #14784026 (external link)
See - that's exactly the process I could've guessed. I remember seeing a video for one of those guys known for doing similar processes. I know it would take me a long time to do though, I'm sure it's fun though.

Do you have the example of when you did it? The only reason I don't want to bother with it is because it takes a ton of practice and is time consuming.

It was a facebook picture I was messing with. It was sloppy and I only did myself. I'll dig it up. You can see the lighting method though.


-Scotty

  
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laxlife1234
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Jul 28, 2012 22:56 |  #6718

iLvision wrote in post #14784016 (external link)
Corrected. (I try hard not to be like you) :p:p:p

Says the person who kept saying I was copying him :p I learn from the best :lol:;)




  
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jdizzle
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Jul 28, 2012 22:56 |  #6719

Dr Manhattan wrote in post #14784020 (external link)
I think you'll sell your 1ds mark III once you get the 1DX.

Maybe but, I've grown attached to it. :)




  
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laxlife1234
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Jul 28, 2012 22:56 |  #6720

Dr Manhattan wrote in post #14784030 (external link)
It was a facebook picture I was messing with. It was sloppy and I only did myself. I'll dig it up. You can see the lighting method though.

Ok, wait so do you change the lighting and where it is? Or do you keep the light in the same place? And how do you stay still if what I'm reading is what you're saying?




  
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