Lens Flare and CS6

Ok, I've been experiencing mucho lens flare--I shoot a lot of real estate (inside/outside) and use an UWA (Tokina 11-16mm). I get the dreaded green flare and am trying to find the best way to deal with it in CS6.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Bump.

Masked adjustment layers. clone. burn.
https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=13608825
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?p=5801790
https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=12602775

Next time, use a lenshood and don't use a filter. Or take an extra shot while blocking the light sources from hitting the front lens, even if you need to place a flag where it is in the image. Easier to compose two shots then to have to remove a lot of flare.

René Damkot wrote in post #14701175
Masked adjustment layers. clone. burn.
https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=13608825
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?p=5801790
https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=12602775

Next time, use a lenshood and don't use a filter. Or take an extra shot while blocking the light sources from hitting the front lens, even if you need to place a flag where it is in the image. Easier to compose two shots then to have to remove a lot of flare.

Thanks.

I always use the hood on the lens. The problem is, I'm not getting it from light shining directly into my lens like the sun. It's coming from the light from the window(s) in the frame. I shoot a lot of real estate photography and the photos look better/the clients like it better when you can see out the window.

These aren't super long shoots so I don't really have the time to set up/compose/recompose like I would on a commercial property shoot.

Maybe get a better lens?

Numenorean wrote in post #14702094
Maybe get a better lens?

LOL!

I'm shooting with a Tokina 11-16--one of the best UWA lenses available (if not the best). There are really only 2 (ok 3 if you consider the Tokina 12-24) other lenses to consider...the Canon 10-20 and the Sigma (whatever their range is).

I opted against the Canon because I felt (still do) the Tokina is made better and gives better images for what I'm doing. The Canon is not a bad lens, however.

I'm trying to understand why I'm getting flare.

Here are two examples (no, these are the final product!):

1. In this one, I really don't know where the lens flare is coming from. It's not much but it's there on the bottom left 3rd on the cabinet.

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Of course you were shooting at a light source: It's in the image.

1st is probably the window (since it's too big and close to the center to be caused by the lamp), second could have easily been avoided by taking a second shot, while holding a hand between light fixture and lens. (Your hand would be in that image, but you would have an image without flare.)

If you don't have the time for that, a quicker way might be to take one shot wide open: Apparently, it flares much less then: http://www.the-digital-picture.com …/Lens-Flare.aspx?Lens=718

1st is not too hard to remove, second might be a bit harder, but still can be cloned out relatively easy.

Still, better to avoid it in the first place.

Are you dragging the shutter to make the lights brighter? If so, try a faster shutter speed.

GadgetRick wrote in post #14704011
I'm trying to understand why I'm getting flare.

Because you're using the Tokina 11-16. Really, honestly, that lens is terrible for flare. You owe it to yourself to at least try the Canon 10-22. It's almost impossible to get that lens to flare (without a 'protective' filter).

I own both lenses, I was hoping I'd be able to sell the Canon when I bought the Tokina. After the first day I realised that the flare problem was so bad that there was no way I could use the Tokina outside in daylight. It's now reserved for astro shots, and even then I can get bad flare.

hollis_f wrote in post #14706740
Because you're using the Tokina 11-16. Really, honestly, that lens is terrible for flare. You owe it to yourself to at least try the Canon 10-22. It's almost impossible to get that lens to flare (without a 'protective' filter).

I own both lenses, I was hoping I'd be able to sell the Canon when I bought the Tokina. After the first day I realised that the flare problem was so bad that there was no way I could use the Tokina outside in daylight. It's now reserved for astro shots, and even then I can get bad flare.

BUT NO THE TOKINA IS BETTER!

The flare is from the lighting, regardless of the lens. You need to reorient the camera to avoid flare, shade the lens to block the concentrated lighting that is causing the flare, or take two images of the scene, one that is your standard image and one that might include your shade in the image but deflares the areas affected by the flare (the lower portion of the image).

Depending on how wide you are shooting, you can often hold a baseball cap or piece of cardboard in front of and above the lens to try to shade the optics from the direct flare-inducing lighting, without actually capturing the shade in the frame.

The argument about the "best lens" ... it obviously is not the best for your job because it is introducing problems. Maybe consider something like the Zeiss 15, 18 or 21mm ultra wides?

kirk

kirkt wrote in post #14706890
The flare is from the lighting, regardless of the lens.

Sorry, but it's not regardless of the lens. It's well known that different lenses have different tendencies to suffer from flare.

hollis_f wrote in post #14707024
Sorry, but it's not regardless of the lens. It's well known that different lenses have different tendencies to suffer from flare.

+1

If you're going to shoot light sources in the frame, you lens needs to provide superior flare suppression.

True, but the concentrated light source is the root of the flare. The lens and its ability to suppress flare will only change its appearance. Remove the concentrated light source and you remove the source of the flare.

René Damkot wrote in post #14705727
Of course you were shooting at a light source: It's in the image.

1st is probably the window (since it's too big and close to the center to be caused by the lamp), second could have easily been avoided by taking a second shot, while holding a hand between light fixture and lens. (Your hand would be in that image, but you would have an image without flare.)

If you don't have the time for that, a quicker way might be to take one shot wide open: Apparently, it flares much less then: http://www.the-digital-picture.com …/Lens-Flare.aspx?Lens=718

1st is not too hard to remove, second might be a bit harder, but still can be cloned out relatively easy.

Still, better to avoid it in the first place.

Sorry, I know they are light sources, just was more talking about shooting directly into a light source like the sun or a big light. My fault.

Are you talking about shooting more of a composite (in reference to the shot with the window)? I'll have to play with that.

Thanks.