Full length overpower the sun shots...Lets see em!

I'm at the point that I need to get serious about lighting. I need to be able to overpower the sun regardless of time of day. Single light, using various modifiers (beauty dish w/grid, large softbox) by up to 2 stops. Working distance will be 10-15 feet. Being able to go cordless is important. I've got a good idea of what is available to fit my needs but I would like to see what results others are getting with their setups. So, post em up and tell us what you used and how. Doesn't have to be people either; just no close in working distances (read-no speedlights).

Bob

I tried Einstein but wasn't able to do so. Somehow folks claim AB1600 works and post shots to proove it. I think you need atleast 1200ws.

bobbyz wrote in post #14706865
I tried Einstein but wasn't able to do so. Somehow folks claim AB1600 works and post shots to proove it. I think you need atleast 1200ws.

Framing your subject right you can get one stop of light simply by exceeding sync speed of your shutter. As long as the flash isn't hitting anything where the shutter curtain would be, no banding. The difference between 600 and 1200 watt seconds is one stop. Going from 200 to 400 is one stop....and anything higher than 1/400 and I start having problems.

This is a WLX1600 in a white beauty dish about 8 feet back. 1/160, f/4, ISO 50, (I can't remember what ND filter I was using, I think maybe a 3x?), at around 3 or 4 PM in May. It's not severly underexposed, but I could have ramped the shutter up to about 1/400 with no problem.

depends on camera. I couldn't do fast 1/200 on 5d. In your shot, very easy to hide exposure gradient on the lower part.

bobbyz wrote in post #14707288
depends on camera. I couldn't do fast 1/200 on 5d. In your shot, very easy to hide exposure gradient on the lower part.

Did you use an ND filter? It's very blown out. I think the OP is looking to underexpose the ambient on a bright sunny day while properly exposing the subject to make them "pop".

I'm going to be using two Einstein 640s with Vagabond mini triggered my a Cyber Commander. My friend uses one Einstein and an AB1600 and never has a problem competing with the sun. They are both on the same light stand plugged into a Vagabond Mini triggered by an Elinchrom Skyport.

One Einstein isn't going to do it.

This was shot on 4th of July last year. Very, very bright with the sun out overhead. Don't remember the combo we used. Probably the AB1600 with either an AB800 or the Einstein.

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jamesb wrote in post #14707366
I'm going to be using two Einstein 640s with Vagabond mini triggered my a Cyber Commander. My friend uses one Einstein and an AB1600 and never has a problem competing with the sun. They are both on the same light stand plugged into a Vagabond Mini triggered by an Elinchrom Skyport.

One Einstein isn't going to do it.

This was shot on 4th of July last year. Very, very bright with the sun out overhead. Don't remember the combo we used. Probably the AB1600 with either an AB800 or the Einstein.

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Same with this one.

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You had both lights on one lightstand? What mount did you use to mount these on the lightstand? Any modifiers on the strobes? Were they both shot at full power? The photos are great!

jamesb - Bare Eintein no problem. With double diffused softbox/octa, someone show me that. I will run more tests over the weekend if I have some time.

bobbyz wrote in post #14707288
depends on camera. I couldn't do fast 1/200 on 5d. In your shot, very easy to hide exposure gradient on the lower part.

That was shot on a 5DII, and I shoot at 1/320 to 1/400 with studio strobes outside all the time.

You don't have to hide an exposure gradient if you simply position your model and light in a manner where the flash doesn't hit anything where banding would be....VERY easy to do. The banding would have been on the right side in that photo; portrait mode.

I'm trying to figure out the mount that was used. I found this that should work.

Avenger F900 Baby Triple Header

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …0_Baby_Triple_H​eader.html

Both flash units had just the standard reflector dish on them. No modifiers, gels, umbrellas, etc. They were probably close to full power.

Another thing to remember is Flash head distance from subject and Camera from subject. Just keep it in mind when you are trying to over power the mid day sun.

Strayz wrote in post #14707982
Another thing to remember is Flash head distance from subject and Camera from subject. Just keep it in mind when you are trying to over power the mid day sun.

OP already specified the 10-15 feet distance.

jamesb wrote in post #14707899
I'm trying to figure out the mount that was used. I found this that should work.

Avenger F900 Baby Triple Header

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …0_Baby_Triple_H​eader.html

Both flash units had just the standard reflector dish on them. No modifiers, gels, umbrellas, etc. They were probably close to full power.

Thanks for the info.

Strayz wrote in post #14707982
Another thing to remember is Flash head distance from subject and Camera from subject. Just keep it in mind when you are trying to over power the mid day sun.

Camera to subject distance doesn't matter. Just flash to subject. Using a wide angle lens up close or using a telephoto at a distance will still provide the same amount of light as long as camera/flash settings stay the same.

2 AB1600's, mounted in AB 22" beauty dish with socks (150 degree spread with sock),,,, 16-18' from group,, set at just above 1/2..probably closer to 3/4 power in F/16 light,, triggered with pocket wizards and had a cpl on the lens

F/8 @ 1/250 iso was at 160---- straight off the camera....nothing done yet

Yup, in my case 10-15 feet from subject to light and I'm trying to underexpose ambient by two stops while properly exposing subject. I actually think the tip about pushing the shutter speed faster than sync is a good one that may be able to work in my case. If the ambient is underexposed by two stops and I can keep the strobe from lighting up the foreground, the band may not even be noticable.

The most cost effective setup I've come up with is a White Lightning X3200 powered by a Vagabond Lithium when remote. At full power, the recycle time will be quite long at 7 seconds but it seems to be doable, at least on paper.

There's a 2000w/s Hensel Integra up on Ebay right now but, I don't know how I would power that monster.

Bob