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Thread started 18 Jul 2012 (Wednesday) 17:23
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7D settings

 
Bianchi
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Jul 18, 2012 17:23 |  #1

Can you post what settings you found to be sharp Jpegs images from 7D

1) Sports
2) Portrait
3) Landscape

Thx for your time.


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TeamSpeed
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Jul 18, 2012 17:42 |  #2

There are 3 methods I use to obtain what I consider sharp images from my 7D bodies (or any body actually).

I do not have the camera sharpen the images via picture styles, I turn those down to 2 or 3 and not past.

1) I microadjust my lenses
2) I try to shoot +1/3 to +2/3 past wide open
3) I clean up the image for whatever is needed first, and I USM or high-pass sharpen nearly the last step

The great thing about this is that others will have different ideas and techniques, with most of them probably being better or equal to what I do.


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rick_reno
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Jul 18, 2012 17:49 |  #3

TeamSpeed wrote in post #14736595 (external link)
The great thing about this is that others will have different ideas and techniques, with most of them probably being better or equal to what I do.

I doubt that. Teamspeed is the resident expert on the 7D, have you perused the FAQ he put together on it?




  
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lannes
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Jul 18, 2012 18:17 |  #4

TeamSpeed wrote in post #14736595 (external link)
There are 3 methods I use to obtain what I consider sharp images from my 7D bodies (or any body actually).

I do not have the camera sharpen the images via picture styles, I turn those down to 2 or 3 and not past.

1) I microadjust my lenses
2) I try to shoot +1/3 to +2/3 past wide open
3) I clean up the image for whatever is needed first, and I USM or high-pass sharpen nearly the last step

The great thing about this is that others will have different ideas and techniques, with most of them probably being better or equal to what I do.

TeamSpeed, does this apply equally to jpeg and raw ?

For jpeg would you increase the sharpening in the picture style ?


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TeamSpeed
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Jul 18, 2012 18:29 |  #5

lannes wrote in post #14736712 (external link)
TeamSpeed, does this apply equally to jpeg and raw ?

For jpeg would you increase the sharpening in the picture style ?

If you are only shooting JPG, then you would use the picture styles and the sharpening option would be more aggressive. However as we have seen with the 5D3, and also comparisons to 4/3rd cameras, like the OM line, the JPG engine from Canon needed quite a bit of improvement. I wouldn't go past the middle setting though, I am of the opinion that you leave a little bit of wiggle room for post processing and flavoring your pictures to taste there instead of SOOC.

Once I get my hands on a 5D3 (or even better a 1DX), I would think shooting JPG would be a great option again. But for now, raw provides a much better result on the legacy bodies over the OOC JPGs.

I shoot Raw + JPG, and if I like the JPG results, I will use them accordingly. However, if I don't like the results, I then work on the raw and convert, giving me a better starting point than the original OOC JPG.


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Jul 18, 2012 18:31 |  #6

TeamSpeed wrote in post #14736595 (external link)
The great thing about this is that others will have different ideas and techniques, with most of them probably being better or equal to what I do.

FAT chance..

Ron


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Bianchi
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Jul 18, 2012 19:27 as a reply to  @ TeamSpeed's post |  #7


Once I get my hands on a 5D3 (or even better a 1DX), I would think shooting JPG would be a great option again. But for now, raw provides a much better result on the legacy bodies over the OOC JPGs.

I shoot Raw JPG, and if I like the JPG results, I will use them accordingly. However, if I dont like the results, I then work on the raw and convert, giving me a better starting point than the original OOC JPG.[/QUOTE
wrote:

=
Once I get my hands on a 5D3 (or even better a 1DX), I would think shooting JPG would be a great option again. But for now, raw provides a much better result on the legacy bodies over the OOC JPGs.

I shoot Raw + JPG, and if I like the JPG results, I will use them accordingly. However, if I don't like the results, I then work on the raw and convert, giving me a better starting point than the original OOC JPG.

Recently read a thread where many felt the Jpeg images from the 5d III were equal to that of the 7D. Others commented they were happy with the Jpeg images. Hard to call it from that thread.

TS It make sense what you say with regards to shooting both Jpeg /Raw, if the Jpeg is to your liking use it, if not work it over in PP. I think I read you use more space on your card doing that.

I never shot raw, so it will be a learning curve for me. Just received LR4 , but I do know not to load it until you understand how you want to use it. So I have a lot of reading and video watching ahead of me.

I presume you can convert raw files in LR4 or is there a better program to do that and then import to LR . I also read the LR4 is slower than previous versions.


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TeamSpeed
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Jul 18, 2012 21:16 |  #8

I have LR3 and don't use it, I still use DPP and CS3. I hope others can pipe in here and help you, I won't even try because I would undoubtedly be wrong.


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rrblint
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Jul 18, 2012 21:36 |  #9

TeamSpeed wrote in post #14736595 (external link)
I do not have the camera sharpen the images via picture styles, I turn those down to 2 or 3 and not past.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #14737472 (external link)
I have LR3 and don't use it, I still use DPP and CS3. I hope others can pipe in here and help you, I won't even try because I would undoubtedly be wrong.

TeamSpeed...What is the purpose of NOT sharpening via picture styles in camera?

I've seen this stated before...I was under the impression that simply changing the sharpness(strength) slider IN DPP would negate any setting made in camera.

If sharpening in camera is somehow degrading my images, then I would like to know.:)


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rrblint
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Jul 18, 2012 21:38 |  #10

Forgot to mention I shoot exclusively in RAW.


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TeamSpeed
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Jul 18, 2012 22:01 |  #11

It saves time, since DPP honors the picture style to set up the settings. I do sharpen via picture styles, but only values of 2-3 tops, and save the remainder of sharpening later after I edit the JPG.


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rrblint
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Jul 18, 2012 22:06 |  #12

TeamSpeed wrote in post #14737688 (external link)
It saves time, since DPP honors the picture style to set up the settings. I do sharpen via picture styles, but only values of 2-3 tops, and save the remainder of sharpening later after I edit the JPG.

Thanks tor the info!


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Jul 18, 2012 22:26 as a reply to  @ rrblint's post |  #13

Does it make a difference using high-pass sharpening on RAW/JPEGS? Can you do it to either?


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apersson850
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Jul 19, 2012 07:52 as a reply to  @ DanFrank's post |  #14

It's also a question about what you are going to use your images for. For a quick post on Facebook or to send an e-mail showing something to somebody, you can use jpeg with the S (normal) setting on the 7D.
For a more resident show, but still intended for the web, you may find that jpegs shot with M (fine) are better than the media. Using L (fine) will give you more ability to crop and blow up a part of the image too.

But if you want the best the camera can perform, then of course go RAW, do a jpeg setup that's not very aggressive (it will be shown on the camera's display, so it's the jpeg settings that determine if you'll like the picture or not when you chimp) and finalize the processing of the image in front of your computer.

Also remember that it's a lot easier to handle noise in an image than motion blur, so consider how you use your aperture and ISO when taking the image. A lot of things can be changed after the fact if you have a RAW image to start with, but motion blur is not one of them.


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Jul 19, 2012 08:12 |  #15

DanFrank wrote in post #14737796 (external link)
Does it make a difference using high-pass sharpening on RAW/JPEGS? Can you do it to either?

I don't believe there is a way to high pass sharpen a raw, unless some 3rd party tools allow it. It requires layering. I do it with the JPG in photoshop, I have it part of a general action where it cleans noise, adds a bit of contrast, a bit of saturation, some leveling, and then high pass.


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