Panning at drag races- Help

I've been practicing panning at drag races and I'm not impressed with the results
Despite everyones advice and suggestions, reading posts and links about this subject and practicing there is no improvement
The cars are out of focus
So I want to step back to the basics and start to hopefully eliminate what could be a contribuiting factor to poor pics
My question is about focus point
What is the best or preferred method of focus:
1.To pre focus on a spot on the track that is 90* to me
Take finger off prefocus button
Watch cars take off from the Christmas Tree, finger still off the shutter button
When cars are approx 20* off perpendiculiar to me, with the red dot on the car press the shutter button,firing in Continious mode and following the car past me and until they are a further 20*
2. Prefocus on car at the Christmas tree. hold shutter butter so auto focus is locked in
Fully depress shutter button when cars are at 20* off perpendiculiar to me and thru till they are approx 20* from perpendiculiar firing in continious mode
I know shutter speed and aperature is important but I want to get this correct before I make any further adjustments to those 2 settings
Please answer the focus point question and not cloud the answer with ISO , shutter and aperature settings
I'm getting tired of driving 100 miles, baking in 95* heat, $50.00 admissions, taking 150 panning shots and throwing them out
I'm using a T2i with either my 15-85 or 70-200
Thanks again for your help
Mach

Panning images from a Canon T2i and how they were achieved.

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Are you standing at the track wall, shooting the near lane? Or are you further back?

Mark Rebilas is a big drag racing photographer, he posts all the exif info on his blog. Here's the Drag Racing images:
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?cat=454

you'll notice that many of his pan shots are shot with a 70-200, which means he's probably shooting from the 1st or 2nd row in the stands to A) get elevated and B) get more motion in the shot.

some examples:
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?p=15449 - 2nd shot down
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?p=15198 - 9/10/11/16th shots
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?p=15113 - 30th shot (search for the word panning)
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?p=14717 - 6th and 9th shots, done with 24-70

Mark is also really good at capturing 'motion' and 'speed' without panning. Shooting things like burnouts, parachutes, tires deforming during the launch, wheelie stands, etc...

For panning I'm in the stands approx 8 rows up. However 8 rows up is irrevelant because not all tracks have the bleachers the same distance from the track
When I look at the info on Mark Rebilas pics (which are awesome) I notice on his panning hes further back than what I am
This weekend I'll try it again and I'll position myself further back and be more aware of my swing
Thanks JacobPhoto and DC Fan for your suggestions

JacobPhoto wrote in post #14773695
Are you standing at the track wall, shooting the near lane? Or are you further back?

Mark Rebilas is a big drag racing photographer, he posts all the exif info on his blog. Here's the Drag Racing images:
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?cat=454

you'll notice that many of his pan shots are shot with a 70-200, which means he's probably shooting from the 1st or 2nd row in the stands to A) get elevated and B) get more motion in the shot.

some examples:
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?p=15449 - 2nd shot down
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?p=15198 - 9/10/11/16th shots
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?p=15113 - 30th shot (search for the word panning)
http://markjrebilas.co​m/blog/?p=14717 - 6th and 9th shots, done with 24-70

Mark is also really good at capturing 'motion' and 'speed' without panning. Shooting things like burnouts, parachutes, tires deforming during the launch, wheelie stands, etc...

I don't shoot drag racing, but it seems to me your option 2 is the way to go using AI Servo with center focus point selected.

Are you sure they're out of focus, not blurry from a low shutter speed and poor panning technique? Can you post one?

I don't pan that often and when I do, it's from trackside into the far lane simply because there was no other way to photograph the car. When I do, I essentially use method two without the continuous mode. I know I've missed some shots by not using continuous mode, but if I do, I end up with too much to sort through. I've gotten pretty good at seeing the decisive moment by using single shot mode. I think I would start by using a shutter speed that you know you will give you a sharp picture. Don't worry about blurring the background until you can produce the sharp image. Then start slowing the shutter speed until you get the effect you like. Motion blur is much more likely than focus to be your problem.

I think it would be difficult to get a good panning motion in a crowded grandstand without bumping the people next to you. It's pretty hard for me to get a smooth pan without getting my body into it. Could it be that you don't have enough room to follow the car for long enough?

whuband wrote in post #14786425
I think it would be difficult to get a good panning motion in a crowded grandstand without bumping the people next to you. It's pretty hard for me to get a smooth pan without getting my body into it. Could it be that you don't have enough room to follow the car for long enough?

Yesterday there was nobody within 100' of me
I was on a hill 1/2 track
I can't use that for an excuse
Mach

To Tomj
Heres one from this past weeeknd
Constructive critique or criticism anybody
Need some help here
Thanks

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I'd say you have motion blur in that photo due to technique, but you can expect a lot of blurred photos when panning (at least I do). I also think you need to slow your shutter quite a bit more than that in order to get the effect of speed.
Here's one I shot at a cruise-in on Saturday night at 1/8 second. Don't mind the noise, I was bumping both the limits of my camera and my own panning abilities. You don't get many keepers at 1/8 but the results are great.

That's motion blur. I'd suggest upping your shutter speed to a high enough point that you're getting a sharp image of the car, then start to decrease it as you get better with practice. Don't sacrifice the car being sharp in order to blur the background - you just end up with nothing usable.

I'm terrible at panning. I shoot occasional road races, and I start to run into trouble below 1/200. But it is something you get better at with practice.

I consider 1/200 slow for drag racing depending on the lens. Any slower and my panning gets shaky, but I'm an old man. Also, don't forget the basic axiom of shutter speeds – you aren't likely to get a sharp picture at any shutter speed slower than 1/focal length of the lens.

I started with a T2i. Here is what I did:

AI Servo, as has been mentioned. Continuous mode. As far as when to focus, I don't know if it really matters that much to start. Especially if you are shooting in Continuous. The most important thing is learning the motion and getting the feel for a smooth pan. As long as your motion is smooth the camera will get the car in focus.

Try starting with the shutter at 1/160. That should give you a good mix of background blur and keepers. If that is not working for you go to 1/200. As you get more comfortable drop the shutter speed.

Here is one at 1/160. T2i with a nifty 250.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …utoidiodyssey/5​344344229/

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I will echo the others. Just like with anything it is muscle memory and getting a nice smooth pan motion. Also you want to grab focus before you start shooting. Choose you point/area/whatever and get that focus on early. Grab a few shots and then follow through. Push and releasing the shutter is extra movement/motion in the camera. NOT needed or wanted.

And then just work your way down. Using your background, colors and the track can make this very fun. Work on technique first in the 1/160 ballpark. Then start having fun and experimenting a bit. Some of my favorite low speed pans.


1/5

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/dinanm3atl/7677​351890/

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IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/dinanm3atl/7432​039188/

I did some panning at the dragstrip over the weekend. I didn't read EVERYTHING above, but one of the hard things about being on the line/at the wall and panning is you are moving your plane of focus/sensor angle a ton compared to the subject. So stepping back and shootin gfrom the stands like people mentioned is definitely the way to go.

I will show off the one wider angle pan that worked though, i have to.

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