7d settings for NHRA Action

I am going to the Sonoma (autolite) Nationals on Friday and I plan on taking some pics while there. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for camera settings? The last time I went and took pics my keep rate was extremely low, most of everything was oof. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

I'm suspecting that it wasn't OOF instead I'm guessing motion blur. You need shutter around 1/640, Fstop around 2.8 (70-200) and put Iso to whatever it takes to get the image. Take her up to 6,400 without questioning it

Depends on the images you're expecting to capture, freezing the cars or panning them?

Were you using one-shot AF? Try AI servo, if the cars are heading away from you.

Yea,try AI servo and if you want motion blur,pan with the car and fire away as fast as the camera will go.I took these at 1/160 of a second....

Last year I shot at the drag strip during some local races, nothing near the speed of top fuel. I believe I was running 1/100th shutter. This year I am going to the NHRA Nationals in Seattle next weekend and I plan to shoot, I am hopeful that my 300L will get me close enough, and that they won't get mad at me for bringing it in.

Day or night?

Shutter speed? .... min. of 1/1000th sec. - higher is ideal. Unless you want intentional "speed blurs".

Aperture depends on the look you want (blurred background = wide open).
... night time = wide open no matter what. A fast lens with a f2.8 or lower is required.
... daytime = f8-f16 if really sunny.

ISO ....
Night = As high as you can get it without noise (800 or higher).
Daytime = 100-400

Center point or expanded focusing in AI Servo mode.
Your 70-200 should do a fine job.

Turn OFF focus point expansion, I've found it to work much better with moving subjects in the frame....less chance of the focus system deciding something else within the expansion range is a better target and locking on that.
I use Center point, occasionally an off to the side point if I want to put the subject off-center, AI-Servo only (do NOT use AI-Focus under any circumstances), Shutter priority (TV) mode, shutter speeds up to or over 1/1000 if you're looking to freeze action, obviously lower ones if you're doing panning shots. I set the focus tracking sensitivity to one click to the slow side of center. Set your ISO appropriately to keep shutter speeds high enough, that's the real trick. The 7D does pretty darn well with noise at higher ISO settings, so that shouldn't be a problem.

With the speed the cars travel at, especially the higher classes, pan shots are gonna be tough without a lot of practice. Probably best to try and get closest to the start line before they really pick up speed. That's also a great place for good burnout and wheelstand shots.

The 70-200 MkII should serve you well if you're close enough. That's an outstanding piece of glass! If you are able to wander the pits the 10-22 would be a great choice for some really nice static shots.

Thanks everyone. I appreciate all the feedback. I will use the info and see what I get.

DennisW1 wrote in post #14771386
Turn OFF focus point expansion, I've found it to work much better with moving subjects in the frame....less chance of the focus system deciding something else within the expansion range is a better target and locking on that.
I use Center point, occasionally an off to the side point if I want to put the subject off-center, AI-Servo only (do NOT use AI-Focus under any circumstances), Shutter priority (TV) mode, shutter speeds up to or over 1/1000 if you're looking to freeze action, obviously lower ones if you're doing panning shots. I set the focus tracking sensitivity to one click to the slow side of center. Set your ISO appropriately to keep shutter speeds high enough, that's the real trick. The 7D does pretty darn well with noise at higher ISO settings, so that shouldn't be a problem.

With the speed the cars travel at, especially the higher classes, pan shots are gonna be tough without a lot of practice. Probably best to try and get closest to the start line before they really pick up speed. That's also a great place for good burnout and wheelstand shots.

The 70-200 MkII should serve you well if you're close enough. That's an outstanding piece of glass! If you are able to wander the pits the 10-22 would be a great choice for some really nice static shots.

I agree, X2
If you wanna pan start at 250th with a bit of practice before dropping to 200th, then say 120th,.......with lots a practice you can try 90th.
Al

There's a lot of decent advice in here.... With faster motion, you might also want to stop it down some - like to f/8 + or - some. This will give you more leeway as far as what is in focus during the shots or shot sequences. I would also suggest concentrating on single shot sequences using AI Servo more than machine gunning- or shorter bursts. Shooting wide open may exacerbate focus problems.. A 1.4x TC should work fine with your 70-200 II - do you use one ? Or do you use another lens.?

I generally shoot manual mode, setting shutter speed and aperture- and let the camera fill in the rest with auto-iso. I tend to take a test shots initially in areas that are brightly lit and then some in areas that are more poorly lit- and look at the settings the camera chooses- to see if they are to my liking.

If you are having difficulties panning- find a stretch on a busy road- and sit off to the side- perhaps in a field- and practice panning on traffic.. Tether it to a laptop if you can.

These settings worked once.

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