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Thread started 26 Jul 2012 (Thursday) 11:53
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From crop to full frame. Did you keep your crop?

 
shinksma
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Jul 27, 2012 16:01 |  #46

wayne.robbins wrote in post #14776311 (external link)
As far as the 100-400L + 1.4x- well, there goes AF.

Lowner wrote in post #14776996 (external link)
Why? Mine AF's perfectly well thanks, both on my 5D2 and previous 30D.

Indeed, the 100-400 @ 400mm with reporting 1.4TC works fine on my T3i in reasonably bright light (f/8).

Canon's TCs inhibit the AF at apertures higher than f/5.6 because it certainly isn't functional in poor lighting, so I'm sure it is right on the edge of AF capability. But if you tape the pins or use an AF-friendly brand (e.g. Kenko) then it keeps working, at least on some body models.

It isn't as quick and reliable as without the TC, especially in a cluttered viewfinder (e.g. bird in tree with lots of branches/leaves in between/nearby), but if you want a bit of extra reach it does a yeoman's job.

IMHO, YMMV,

shinksma


5DII | T3i | EF 17-40 L | EF 24-105 L | EF 24 1.4 L II | EF 28 1.8 | EF 85 1.8 | EF 70-200 2.8 L IS II | EF 100-400 L | EF-S 15-85 IS USM | EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS USM | EF-S 10-22 USM | EF 100 2.8 Macro USM | EF-S 18-55 IS | EF 35-80 III | EF-S 55-250 IS | Rokinon 8mm FE | EF 75-300 non-USM III | SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4 | Tamron 70-210 | 430EX II | Kenko 2x MC4 and 1.4x Pro300DGX TC

  
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Levina ­ de ­ Ruijter
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Jul 27, 2012 16:01 |  #47

I went from a 40D to a 5Dc some 6 months ago and a couple of weeks ago bought a 1D Mk IIn. The 40D just sits on a shelf now and I have decided to sell it. No sense holding on to it if it's not used any longer.
I love full frame, even for birds. If I could afford a 5DIII I would buy it and shoot with that exclusively.


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LunaP
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Jul 27, 2012 16:11 |  #48

Perfect_10 wrote in post #14778807 (external link)
I bought mine when I had my 30D .. it was always pin sharp. I'm even more impressed with it on my 5DII. It lived on the 5DII right up until I got the 24-105, so now it only gets used for wide stuff.

I can't say my copy is pin sharp. Sometimes it's sharp, sometimes it's not :( The problem is how sharp is sharp. Compared with a prime, with prime being 10 on a scale of 1-10, how do you rate your copy?


Canon 50D || EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM || EF 50mm F1.8 II || EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM || EF 17-40mm f/4L || Adobe Photoshop CS6 || Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3 || Photomatix Pro 4
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CincyTriGuy
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Jul 27, 2012 17:18 |  #49

I pre-ordered the 5D3 and haven't touched my 50D since the day my 5D3 arrived. Still trying to decide whether to keep or sell it.


Jason
Canon 1DX Mark II | 16-35 f/2.8L | 24-105 f/4L | 50 f/1.4 | 85 f/1.8 | 70-200 f/2.8L

  
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Perfect_10
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Jul 27, 2012 17:20 |  #50

LunaP wrote in post #14778876 (external link)
I can't say my copy is pin sharp. Sometimes it's sharp, sometimes it's not :( The problem is how sharp is sharp. Compared with a prime, with prime being 10 on a scale of 1-10, how do you rate your copy?

I'd rate it a 10 (or damn close) .. I shot some pics a few years back at a classic car show. I remember a couple of shots I took of the insides of some of the cars and spotted registration documents sitting down on the floor and in a console. Zoomed in I could read all the fine print on both of them.


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wayne.robbins
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Jul 27, 2012 20:06 |  #51

@shinksma, @lowner - yes, you can bandaid a solution - so that it AF's in bright light- and it might work for stationary shots. You can state all day that it can- and OK But in the end, is it worth it ? Is it quick enough to catch a fast moving object? Just how much longer does it take to acquire a subject- let alone a moving subject? It's a band aid. Heck, you could even throw a 2X tc on it- and use liveview to autofocus. Now, if you were looking at BIF - IN FLIGHT - good luck with any of those methods. But then and again- maybe you will get lucky. But then, how much did you pay for your overall band-aided solution ? Is it a good plan to go in with- thinking that it's going to be perfectly autofocus ( if you tell me it focuses perfectly well, and leave it at that- I assume that it focuses as fast as it did before the TC, and that it does not hunt ! ) IMO, the OP is looking at BIF, as in post #1, as part of it. A better plan might be to use the 100-400L as is- and plan on purchasing a little longer lens later if he/she needs it.

Overall, you'd be better off attempting to get closer, or cropping the shot, than to put the band aided solution into play. Try it for stationary shots- yeah, sure. BIF ... No point reiterating it..


EOS 5D III, EOS 7D,EOS Rebel T4i, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS II, Canon 24-105L, Canon 18-135 IS STM, 1.4x TC III, 2.0x TC III, Σ 50mm f/1.4, Σ 17-50 OS, Σ 70-200 OS, Σ 50-500 OS, Σ 1.4x TC, Σ 2.0x TC, 580EXII(3), Canon SX-40, Canon S100
Fond memories: Rebel T1i, Canon 18-55 IS, Canon 55-250 IS, 18-135 IS (Given to a good home)...

  
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Gregg.Siam
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Jul 27, 2012 20:37 as a reply to  @ wayne.robbins's post |  #52

nope, I sold (actually traded it in) to partially fund the 5D3.

To me, the crop was worthless. The 5D3 had far better ergonomics, IQ, and pretty much everything else. I didn't care about the extra reach of a crop as that's what lenses are for.


5D MKIII | 24-105mm f/4 L| 50mm f/1.8 | 600EX-RT [FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=bl​ue][FONT="]|
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shinksma
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Jul 27, 2012 20:38 |  #53

wayne.robbins wrote in post #14779557 (external link)
@shinksma, @lowner - yes, you can bandaid a solution - so that it AF's in bright light- and it might work for stationary shots. You can state all day that it can- and OK But in the end, is it worth it ? Is it quick enough to catch a fast moving object? Just how much longer does it take to acquire a subject- let alone a moving subject? It's a band aid. Heck, you could even throw a 2X tc on it- and use liveview to autofocus. Now, if you were looking at BIF - IN FLIGHT - good luck with any of those methods. But then and again- maybe you will get lucky. But then, how much did you pay for your overall band-aided solution ? Is it a good plan to go in with- thinking that it's going to be perfectly autofocus ( if you tell me it focuses perfectly well, and leave it at that- I assume that it focuses as fast as it did before the TC, and that it does not hunt ! ) IMO, the OP is looking at BIF, as in post #1, as part of it. A better plan might be to use the 100-400L as is- and plan on purchasing a little longer lens later if he/she needs it.

Overall, you'd be better off attempting to get closer, or cropping the shot, than to put the band aided solution into play. Try it for stationary shots- yeah, sure. BIF ... No point reiterating it..

Oh, in general I agree. For BIF the use of a TC is a major handicap (although it can still work). Believe me, I would love to have a lens longer than 400mm, but last I looked, that was several thousand bucks, at least, whereas a good TC 1.4x is less than or about a few hundred.

So when you want a bit more reach, and have suitable conditions, a TC can help. I don't think it is an ideal solution, but it is affordable.

shinksma


5DII | T3i | EF 17-40 L | EF 24-105 L | EF 24 1.4 L II | EF 28 1.8 | EF 85 1.8 | EF 70-200 2.8 L IS II | EF 100-400 L | EF-S 15-85 IS USM | EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS USM | EF-S 10-22 USM | EF 100 2.8 Macro USM | EF-S 18-55 IS | EF 35-80 III | EF-S 55-250 IS | Rokinon 8mm FE | EF 75-300 non-USM III | SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4 | Tamron 70-210 | 430EX II | Kenko 2x MC4 and 1.4x Pro300DGX TC

  
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LunaP
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Jul 27, 2012 20:50 |  #54

Perfect_10 wrote in post #14779094 (external link)
I'd rate it a 10 (or damn close) .. I shot some pics a few years back at a classic car show. I remember a couple of shots I took of the insides of some of the cars and spotted registration documents sitting down on the floor and in a console. Zoomed in I could read all the fine print on both of them.

Either I have a not-so good copy or my expectation of an L lens is too high :(


Canon 50D || EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM || EF 50mm F1.8 II || EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM || EF 17-40mm f/4L || Adobe Photoshop CS6 || Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3 || Photomatix Pro 4
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Paolo.Leviste
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Jul 27, 2012 20:58 |  #55

30D and 5DII. I can still find some use for the 30D. Particularly in situations where that "crop factor" comes in handy.

I will say it doesn't get nearly as much use, but it's nice having the workhorse around just in case the other camera isn't available. Heck, even if I manage to get a 5DIII, I'd still keep 'er around.


[Canon 5DII/30D | 24-70 f2.8L | Σ 30 f1.4 | Σ 50 f1.4 | 70-200 f4L | 580EX II ]
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Charlie
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Jul 28, 2012 00:54 |  #56

Paolo.Leviste wrote in post #14779694 (external link)
30D and 5DII. I can still find some use for the 30D. Particularly in situations where that "crop factor" comes in handy.

I will say it doesn't get nearly as much use, but it's nice having the workhorse around just in case the other camera isn't available. Heck, even if I manage to get a 5DIII, I'd still keep 'er around.

The 5d2 has the pixel density of the 30d, so crop factor doesn't help much except for framing


Sony A7siii/A7iii/ZV-1 - FE 24/1.4 - SY 24/2.8 - FE 35/2.8 - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Tamron 17-28/2.8 - 28-75/2.8 - 28-200 RXD
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larrycumba
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Jul 28, 2012 12:04 |  #57

I went backwards. Have the 5D markIII and then the 7D.




  
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biodan
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Jul 28, 2012 21:25 |  #58

shinksma wrote in post #14779628 (external link)
.... For BIF the use of a TC is a major handicap (although it can still work). Believe me, I would love to have a lens longer than 400mm, but last I looked, that was several thousand bucks, at least, whereas a good TC 1.4x is less than or about a few hundred.

So when you want a bit more reach, and have suitable conditions, a TC can help. I don't think it is an ideal solution, but it is affordable.

shinksma

To expand on this,
a 'friendly' 1.4x (Kenko or Tamron) on the 100-400 is terrible for BIF- the AF is just too slow. But on a 300 f2.8 IS or 500 f4 IS, the Canon 1.4x II or III doesn't significantly change the AF speed and is very usable for BIF. However, the Canon 2x II does affect AF speed (haven't tried the 2x III) and its not as sharp as the 1.4x on either the 300 or 500.


Canon: 1D Mark IV, 17 T/S, 24 T/S II, 90 T/S,
M4/3: EM-1 II (astro converted), EM-1 III, EM-M1X, 40-150/2.8, 300/4, 12/2, 60/2.8, P35-100/2.8, P12-35/2.8, P8-18/F2.8-4
Sony: A7RIV, A9, 600/4 GM, 100-400/4.5-5.6 GM, 70-200/4 G, 12-24/F4 G, Voigtlander 40/1.2, Loxia 21/2.8, Venus 15/2, Tamron 17-35/2.8-4 Tamron 28-75/2.8
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TijmenDal
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Jul 28, 2012 22:36 |  #59

I didn't, but that was because I had to sell my 40D to fund my 5Dc. I will probably buy a 20/30D as a backup- and timelapsebody in the near future though.


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pvr
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Jul 29, 2012 07:29 |  #60

Gregg.Siam wrote in post #14779625 (external link)
nope, I sold (actually traded it in) to partially fund the 5D3.

To me, the crop was worthless. The 5D3 had far better ergonomics, IQ, and pretty much everything else. I didn't care about the extra reach of a crop as that's what lenses are for.

I think that you should clarify which crop it is that you think is "worthless". I have a 7D and 5D3, and they're ergonomically similar. I've also taken many photos with the 7D which were extremely fine, with exceptionally high IQ. I'm sure owners of previous 1D's also love their "crop" cameras. Finally, I own a 400mm lens, and I've yet to use a TC that doesn't degrade the image to some extent. The extra "reach" of the crop is very useful in some situations.

BTW, I kept my 7D when I purchased the 5D3. If an amazing spec 7D2 comes out, I may have to get it, and pass along the 7D to one of my sons.


5DIV | 400mm f2.8L IS II | 200-400mm f4.0L IS II | 70-200mm f2.8L IS II | 100mm f2.8L IS | 24-70mm f2.8L IS II | 35mm f1.4L II | 24mm TS-E f3.5L IS II | 16-35mm f2.8L III | 11-24mm f4.0L

  
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