Yongnuo YN-565EX ETTL Beep?????

Just got my Yongnuo YN-565EX ETTL. Problem is the Beep is very Annoying. I want to turn it off and i did a quick search. It says to goto Custom Functions and go to 14. Mine only goes to 13. I don't get it? I Have Canon T3i v 1.0.2 with Magic Lantern.

Edit: Never mind, its on the Flash Itself. Oh do i feel stupid.

Edit 2: I can't seem to figure out the Popup Flash Wireless Trigger work around. If anyone has a Tutorial on that for the T3i, Please Post it here.

Took some Googling a couple weeks ago for me to find that the manual had the info I needed to shut that beep off. Who knew reading the 'fine' manual would be so helpful?

Glad you figured it out.

Ho do you like yours so far? I've fired mine about 500 times and no issues.

I like it a lot except the Lights in my Apartment are throwing off the White Balance on Zoomed in shots. Instead of things being Grey or White like a Wall, Its more Orange because of the Tungsten Lights. I think i'm doing something wrong or the Flash setting Zoom is not far enough, idk.

Also i can't seem to figure out the Popup Flash Wireless Trigger work around. If anyone has a Tutorial on that for the T3i, Please Post it here.

Have you tried setting the White Balance in the camera to 'flash' (lightning bolt)?

Can't help with the T3i, sorry.

WOW! So Obvious. I feel stupid again lol. That seems to work.

rhuel wrote in post #14779663
Have you tried setting the White Balance in the camera to 'flash' (lightning bolt)?

Can't help with the T3i, sorry.

Won't that only work if he's only exposing for the flash, and over-powering the ambient? If the ambient is tungsten, and the exposure allows for ambient with the flash, you'll have 2 light sources at different temps. To offset that you'd have to use gels, wouldn't you/he?

KirkS518 wrote in post #14779823
Won't that only work if he's only exposing for the flash, and over-powering the ambient? If the ambient is tungsten, and the exposure allows for ambient with the flash, you'll have 2 light sources at different temps. To offset that you'd have to use gels, wouldn't you/he?

Yeah i'm noticing it actually doesn't really work. Compared to Auto White Balance, its better than AWB. But not by Much. So i have to get Gels?

Edit: Scratch that, AWB is Better. I Guess i have to get Gels

From what I understand, these are great, and not very costly - http://www.adorama.com …aspx?searchinfo​=rogue+gel

Sorry for misguiding you. I'm very new to using speedlites myself. Changing White Balance was just the first thing that came to mind. Best of luck getting it sorted out.

Your shutter speed controls the amount of ambient light registered by the camera. Take the shutter setting up to 1/250th and you'll get the minimum amount of ambient and hence the minimum orange colouration. IF you want to actually use the ambient for some reason (fill-in, maybe?) then you are mixing two diverse colour temperatures (circa 5600°K for the flash and circa 2800°K for the tungsten).

The colour temperature of incandescent bulbs varies quite a lot depending on the wattage of the bulb (lower wattage = warmer colour) so you'll need to do a bit of testing if you want fully balanced lighting. Starting point is a CTO filter on the flash (Colour Temperature Orange = conversion from Daylight to Tungsten [crudely speaking]). Each time you change your shutter speed, the filter will need adjusting (see first sentence).

The Rogue filters are fine, not the cheapest and the rubber band is a bit of a pain if your fingernails are trimmed. They'll at least give you options for getting fairly close. Cheap spare bands can be obtained from model shops, used for fastening wings on gliders. You will, as others have noted, have to tweak the White Balance in camera AS WELL as filtering.

Basic thing to remember, though - only change ONE thing at once or you'll get in a tangle.

The YN565EX beep varies from model to model (it's just a basic, cheapo buzzer inside the foot). If you want it ON but quieter, you could try taping over the hole in the foot where the noise comes out of. I have 3 YN565EXs and each makes a different noise, and at a different volume too. There is also no standardisation about how deep the buzzer is inserted in the socket. You may be able to stuff the inside of the socket with tissue or something - easiest way is to just ignore it, though.

Whortleberry wrote in post #14781205
Your shutter speed controls the amount of ambient light registered by the camera. Take the shutter setting up to 1/250th and you'll get the minimum amount of ambient and hence the minimum orange colouration. IF you want to actually use the ambient for some reason (fill-in, maybe?) then you are mixing two diverse colour temperatures (circa 5600°K for the flash and circa 2800°K for the tungsten).

The colour temperature of incandescent bulbs varies quite a lot depending on the wattage of the bulb (lower wattage = warmer colour) so you'll need to do a bit of testing if you want fully balanced lighting. Starting point is a CTO filter on the flash (Colour Temperature Orange = conversion from Daylight to Tungsten [crudely speaking]). Each time you change your shutter speed, the filter will need adjusting (see first sentence).

The Rogue filters are fine, not the cheapest and the rubber band is a bit of a pain if your fingernails are trimmed. They'll at least give you options for getting fairly close. Cheap spare bands can be obtained from model shops, used for fastening wings on gliders. You will, as others have noted, have to tweak the White Balance in camera AS WELL as filtering.

Basic thing to remember, though - only change ONE thing at once or you'll get in a tangle.

The YN565EX beep varies from model to model (it's just a basic, cheapo buzzer inside the foot). If you want it ON but quieter, you could try taping over the hole in the foot where the noise comes out of. I have 3 YN565EXs and each makes a different noise, and at a different volume too. There is also no standardisation about how deep the buzzer is inserted in the socket. You may be able to stuff the inside of the socket with tissue or something - easiest way is to just ignore it, though.

Thanks for the information, I can only goto 1/200th though. Its Daytime now, So i have some Sunlight coming in now & my Pictures are still coming out kinda tinty Orange/Red. The walls in my place are white but not white in the pictures. Idk maybe i'm crazy. Is ETTL the Problem?

Edit: Here's two Examples... First Picture has a Red Tint, The wall in the background should be white or atleast Grey, But it's not, Than the second Picture is much better but in a room with less colorful things. I think maybe the flash isn't outputting enough power? Because i made a simple Popup Flash Re-direct and got better "Color" Results than this Flash. I mean i guess i can Edit the Temp in something like Camera RAW but i don't think its going to be perfect. I don't want to have to edit like crazy for every picture. I want Whites to be white, Blacks to be Black.

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Examples?

Just edited my Post above with Pictures.

1/200th is fine - I didn't look up the max synch speed of your camera, is all. Looks as though the great majority of the light in (1) is ambient with just a touch of fill flash, which would account for the tint. (2) looks to be almost all ambient, maybe windowlight going by the catchlights. Can't actually see any flash in (2) at all.

Yeah there's a Window to the Left in the First Picture, Plus a Window Behind me, But it's still pretty Dark, I have to take my F Stop to 1.8 & ISO atleast 400 to get a Good Exposure without Flash. So The Flash is Definitely working, I'm just not liking the tint its giving me in about 80% of my Images.

Edit: I did notice one thing, My Exposure Compensation is always at -3 even when i Meter, Its like the flash is not Communicating with my Camera. So i never know if the Exposure is right.