Yongnuo YN-622C Controller Trigger

Bonbridge wrote in post #14991102
I am thinking about getting a few of those triggers and get 2 YN568EX speedlights which has HSS.
So you can see this like a budget 600EX setup?
You can control everything from your camera including ETTL and HSS?

Just a confirm before I click the buy button.

CliveyBoy wrote in post #14991438
Not so. It is 1st curtain, 2nd curtain or "fast-shutter" pre-sync. The Kings and the 622s are like this.

The 622 tries to use the 4 extra pins to identify the nature of the mounted beast, and handle it accordingly. It cannot do that with a flash connected by the two-wire PC-sync cable.

btmlinedan wrote in post #14992091
622 with 568 video here : http://www.youtube.com …3bAZRCDg&featur​e=youtu.be

squall1977 wrote in post #14991989
Looking for info on the YN-560 II. Now I know the yn-560 you can't adjust power from in camera does any one know if this changed with the yn-560 II?

btmlinedan wrote in post #14992091
622 with 568 video here : http://www.youtube.com …3bAZRCDg&featur​e=youtu.be

CliveyBoy wrote in post #14991534
1. Canon shutters (mostly) work up and down. The sequence is:
Both curtains closed over the sensor.
Second curtain drops.
First curtain goes up.
Sensor is fully exposed and sync signal sent; flash fires.
At end of exposure, second curtain goes up. Sensor covered.
First curtain drops. Sensor double-covered ready for next shot.

2. Compromise! The camera does not know what device is connected by two wire, or its characteristics. The light output varies greatly during the burn (think half a tadpole shape), so the lighting is going to be uneven and show somewhere.

3. The camera produces an "I'm about to open" signal for HSS. HSS is what Canon calls "flat light", and can be generated by electronics in the flash. No electronics - no HSS. This signal is also used by Supersync.

dmward wrote in post #14991879
How is sync speed determined for a Canon camera? It is the fastest shutter speed where the first curtain completely clears the sensor before the second curtain starts to cover the shutter ending the exposure. For all shutter speeds greater than sync speed the exposure is accomplished by a slit between the two shutter curtains traveling across the sensor plane. As the shutter speed gets faster the slit gets narrower. This approach is required because there is a maximum speed at which the curtains can travel. The exact speed is probably a bit faster than the sync speed. A crop camera has a higher sync speed because the shutter curtains have less distance to travel.

The shutter on Canon cameras travels from bottom of image to top. i.e. the first curtain clears the sensor by dropping from the top of the camera to the bottom. The second curtain covers the sensor by dropping from the top of the camera to the bottom. This travel pattern makes sense considering how the mirror moves to clear the sensor aperture.

Here is the sequence of events that occur for an exposure with flash with a Canon camera:
1)Camera determines, via settings whether to transmit fire pulse to flash when first curtain opens or just before second curtain closes.
2) Or, if the camera should "pre-fire" the flash after sending it a command for High Speed Sync pulsing to accommodate a shutter speed greater than sync speed.
3) The time lag from fire pulse to shutter actuation is controlled by camera specs to ensure that either the curtains are clear of the shutter (1) or that the speedlite is illuminating the subject when the curtain begins its travel (2) to ensure even illumination.

Hyper Sync (Pocket Wizard term) or Super Sync (YN term) is a hack to enable a studio strobe to illuminate a subject at shutter speeds higher than sync speed. The hack has to accommodate two realities; a) camera flash fire pulse is timed to ensure that the curtains are clear of the sensor; b) studio strobes have a rapid build up of power to the flash tube and then a gradual decrease resulting is pike and tail light output curve. Since the intent is to have the flash illuminate only a portion of the sensor at any moment in time during the curtain travel, its necessary to fire the flash before the shutter opens so that the pike light output does not over expose a narrow sliver of the image. To accomplish this the triggers fool the camera into thinking it should deliver a HSS early fire pulse to the flash. This means the pike of the flash output will be past when the shutter slit begins to travel across the sensor. Thus the tail of the flash output illuminates the image. Because the power is diminishing over time as the slit is traveling across the sensor the exposure is gradated.

This technique works with monolights that use voltage to control power settings. i.e. half power means half full capacitor. etc. This also means that as power settings are reduced the tail of the studio strobe flattens and the flash duration from start to t.1 (when 90% of the light output has been delivered.) is longer. The secondary advantage is that a lower power setting with a higher shutter speed means that the gradient from start to end of shutter travel may be less depending on the tail curve characteristics. It also means that even less of the available output from the strobe is used to illuminate the subject.

Providing that the trigger can effectively deliver a "pre-shutter" fire signal, the hack does offer some benefits for using strobes at greater than sync speed. Unfortunately there is no way to effectively meter the light output. This means the photographer has to depend on using "digital Polaroid's " to confirm proper exposure.

(For those reading this that are too young to have used a Polaroid back on a view camera to confirm exposure substitute "chimping" for "digital Polaroid.)

iituner wrote in post #14992215
To my regret, I do not know much English, but you speak very quickly
Could you share your comments here?

-AP- wrote in post #14992464
Dan, you're awesome.. Great video. You should be the companies spokesman!!

Nice job!!

btmlinedan wrote in post #14992611
Thanks!!

dmward wrote in post #14991879
The shutter on Canon cameras travels from bottom of image to top. i.e. the first curtain clears the sensor by dropping from the top of the camera to the bottom. The second curtain covers the sensor by dropping from the top of the camera to the bottom.

Submariner wrote in post #14992664
Hey Dan,
is there any way to know if you have recieved one of the 'fixed' 622's - like a prefix or suffix to the # No? or different Box denotation like Ver. 2 etc?

BTW liked your video - hope the effort is rewarded by the PR execise attracting new customers to BM.