Why IS barely work for Macro??

If you want good clear macros, you have to use flash and an aperture of f22 - f25. IS is pointless then.

No, you don't. I most often shoot with flash, not only to freeze motion, but also because highly diffused flash is nicer than bright sunlight. However, you can shoot in bright sunlight without flash. And I usually shoot bugs with considerably larger apertures than f/22. I'll post a few:

These two are at f/10 without flash:

Pepe Guitarra wrote in post #14805313
If you want good clear macros, you have to use flash and an aperture of f22 - f25. IS is pointless then.

I don't understand, why do we need F/22?

Many great captures have used natural light, my shots tend to use f/13 at 1:1 and F/8 at higher mag.

You don't have to use F22, but it does increase your DOF slightly.

Bsmooth wrote in post #14805381
You don't have to use F22, but it does increase your DOF slightly.

OK thank you. It tends to also soften the picture as diffraction comes into play with macro.

maverick75 wrote in post #14804924
You need to learn how to hold a camera. I can do 1/10 handheld no problem with 80% usable images.

You're only getting 20%?

Tuck your elbows to your body to stabilize your camera more.

Are you a robot, or have ice in your veins?

Earwax69 wrote in post #14803662
Hi, I was wondering about why the IS can be so efficient on telephoto but so inept on macro lenses... Anyone know the reason??

In macro the angle of view is so narrow (normally just a few inches) that any movement of the camera is greatly magnified.
For example: A shot of a subject taken from 20 feet away & the camera moves slightly ie a few centimeters, the IS can easily compensate for this movement.
Using the same lens in a macro shot, a few centimeters movement will mean a larger percentage of the field of view (which is only inches) will be involved & the IS won't be able to compensate for such a large movement.

Bsmooth wrote in post #14805381
You don't have to use F22, but it does increase your DOF slightly.

And turns the quality to crap due diffraction. Might work ok in small magnifications like 1:1, for beyond 3:1 you probably want to stay between F8-11.

TIP: When hand holding for macro shots, don't use AF or try to focus while you are shooting. First focus to it's closest distance or one that is near your liking for the composition and then slowly move the camera closer/farther away until the subject is in focus. Then snap.

Works much better.

Question: can you use a normal flash for macro, lets say the Nissin di 866, without a special bracket? Can the flash reach over the lens enough to lighten the bug?

Also what would you invest first? A tripod or a flash? I tend to like natural light when not in full sunlight, which is frequent under the trees. And I dont like seeing a sharp highlight on my subjects. If I were to use a flash, a soft box would be required.

I got a old Slik tripod. Around 100$, light. Quite good. But no head on it...

Anyone use a monopod? I'm sure it would help in the 1/60 range...

Facedodge: Thanks for the tip! Half of the time however I hold the camera at arm lenght trying to reach had to reach places using live view. Point center Autofocus give me better result in those case. I think I have to learn to be more patient... stay longer with the subjet...

Earwax69 wrote in post #14806869
Question: can you use a normal flash for macro, lets say the Nissin di 866, without a special bracket? Can the flash reach over the lens enough to lighten the bug?

Also what would you invest first? A tripod or a flash? I tend to like natural light when not in full sunlight, which is frequent under the trees. And I dont like seeing a sharp highlight on my subjects. If I were to use a flash, a soft box would be required.

I got a old Slik tripod. Around 100$, light. Quite good. But no head on it...

Anyone use a monopod? I'm sure it would help in the 1/60 range...

Facedodge: Thanks for the tip! Half of the time however I hold the camera at arm lenght trying to reach had to reach places using live view. Point center Autofocus give me better result in those case. I think I have to learn to be more patient... stay longer with the subjet...

An off-camera extension cord with any flash will be you best friend for newbie such my self;

Tripod is a MUST for someone want to be a 'natural' micro photographer - only using nature lighting.

What are you doing with the flash handheld? Holding it with 1 hand while the camera is in the other?!! You use a bracket or another tripod?

Also, the t3i got wireless flash remote... I think that will kill the need for an extension cord.

maverick75 wrote in post #14804924
You need to learn how to hold a camera. I can do 1/10 handheld no problem with 80% usable images.

You're only getting 20%?

Tuck your elbows to your body to stabilize your camera more.

After lots of practice, I can handhold at 5s now.

Earwax69 wrote in post #14807208
What are you doing with the flash handheld? Holding it with 1 hand while the camera is in the other?!! You use a bracket or another tripod?

Also, the t3i got wireless flash remote... I think that will kill the need for an extension cord.

I can't decide which bracket to go, so I just handhold the flash so far. And I used up to 36cm extension tubes with my T2i or 5D2 before, which was bit clumsy.

Wireless flash remove will be handy, but I only have 540EX mark I.

Here are my attempted:

T2i / 550D + 100L:

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/x_tan/600420922​4/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/x_tan/598687883​9/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/x_tan/524811164​9/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/x_tan/524811118​3/

maverick75 wrote in post #14804924
You need to learn how to hold a camera. I can do 1/10 handheld no problem with 80% usable images.

You're only getting 20%?

Tuck your elbows to your body to stabilize your camera more.

DOF with 100mm f/11 on FF camera is less than 1mm DOF zone when you have 1:1 repro ratio...your body can easily sway that much due to heartbeat induced motion. Since I find a body cast too restrictive when out in the field, I generally find a tripod an essential alternative when shooting true macro.