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Thread started 12 Aug 2012 (Sunday) 13:13
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gen2roller
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Aug 12, 2012 13:13 |  #1

what can I do better other than shoot a longer one with a much more interesting foreground? and I was wondering, if I'm shooting at f/2.8 and focused to infinity for the stars, wouldn't an object in the foreground be super out of focus? should I focus on the object and let the sky lose focus? everything seems quite soft anyway. shot with the 5dmkii and 16-35 at 17mm (thought I was at 16). iso 3200, f/2.8, 105 25 second exposures with 2 seconds between shots

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7D Gripped | 5D MKII Gripped |Canon 50mm f/1.4 | 70-200L f/2.8 IS II | 16-35L f/2.8 II | Opteka 6.5mm Fisheye | Cybersyncs and Vivitars
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NewEnglandPhotographer
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Aug 12, 2012 13:54 |  #2

the big issue here is your aperture...


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stanclark
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Aug 12, 2012 14:04 |  #3

iso on the high side also....


So if God made Man & Woman....whats his excuse for Nikon...

  
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Croasdail
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Aug 12, 2012 16:42 |  #4

So did you set the exposure yourself, or was that a manual exposure? Like stated above, sort of, why f2.8, and why such a high ISO. Even in the best lenses, f2.8 is a lens at its softest. I haven't done much of anything like this, but I do shoot lightning a lot and I will go for the lowest ISO I can get so I can get a long exposure.

So just kind of wondering why you choose the settings you did. All that said, it is a nice shot from whay you posted. Also remember trees and shrubs move unless the air is perfectly still, so in a long exposure that will show up as perceived softness.




  
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gen2roller
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Aug 12, 2012 17:57 |  #5

basically I wanted to show as many stars as I could. lower Iso's meant less stars, and 3200 isn't awful for the 5dmkii and it's pretty controllable. Aperture, same reason, just wanted more stars to show up, I guess I could have shot longer exposures instead? I was trying to prevent hot pixels or whatever as well


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gen2roller
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Aug 14, 2012 12:14 |  #6

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iso 2000, 30 second exposures at f/5

the stars seem much sharper in this one, I didn't leave town this time, but I think I found the settings I like..

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NewEnglandPhotographer
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Aug 14, 2012 17:27 |  #7

composition is poor, but the results are muuuuch better!


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gen2roller
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Aug 14, 2012 18:57 |  #8

Haha yeah I meant to mention, was not trying anything in the ways of composition, (which of course I should have) just different settings. thanks for the advice :D


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Todd ­ Lambert
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Aug 14, 2012 19:12 |  #9

Your ssettings are fine. I shoot larger that 2.8 and 3200 ISO all the time.

As for focus, look into the hyper focal distance of your desired length and the lens's MFD.

Othe than that, these types of shots are all about composition and an interesting foreground element.




  
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gen2roller
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Aug 14, 2012 19:52 |  #10

Todd Lambert wrote in post #14859181 (external link)
Your ssettings are fine. I shoot larger that 2.8 and 3200 ISO all the time.

As for focus, look into the hyper focal distance of your desired length and the lens's MFD.

Othe than that, these types of shots are all about composition and an interesting foreground element.

wow! you have some amazing work. Thanks for the tips, and I'll start hunting those foregrounds :cool:


7D Gripped | 5D MKII Gripped |Canon 50mm f/1.4 | 70-200L f/2.8 IS II | 16-35L f/2.8 II | Opteka 6.5mm Fisheye | Cybersyncs and Vivitars
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Todd ­ Lambert
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Aug 14, 2012 22:11 |  #11

Thanks! Yeah, that's the hardest part I think... finding something interesting in a dark place. 8-)




  
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gen2roller
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Aug 14, 2012 22:33 |  #12

for sure, how have you been composing your shots? I usually throw it on Hi2 iso for a 3-4 second exposure to see what my composition looks like.. is there a more efficient way? then I do a 6-10 minute exposure to see where my trails will be... seems like I'm making it more time consuming than it could be but perhaps it's just time consuming work :)


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Todd ­ Lambert
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Aug 14, 2012 22:52 |  #13

I typically work the same with a high ISO to get framing but most of the I don't even bother. I've gotten pretty good an visualizing scenes even in the dark.

Once I locate Polaris, then I start looking for a way to frame something in the foreground with it.




  
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CaP17A
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Aug 15, 2012 16:24 |  #14

Normally I do ISO 1600 with 30 second exposures f/3.5. Those turn out fine for me and its on a t2i.


60d / 5dC / Vivitar 283 x4 / 50mm f/1.4 / Rokinon 8mm / Tamron 10-24 / Cybersyncs

  
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skwirnmn
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Aug 15, 2012 20:10 |  #15

I focus on the foreground subject and shoot wide open. my iso will depend on what is needed to properly expose the photo

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Malachi 2-19 trail (external link) by CHRIS.LOH (external link), on Flickr



  
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