85mm 1.8 - need filter to shoot wide open by day?

I guess so... is it just for bright sunlight? I presume that if you shoot someone in the shadow, your ISO will rocket up...

Is Kenko filters ok?

In full sunlight during the middle of the day, it is very possible to have overexposed images at f/1.8. A 3 stop ND filter would be enough to take care of this.

Your shutter speed probably goes as fast as 1/8000. Turning to shoot a picture in shadow would not lower your shutter speed enough to increase the ISO. The auto ISO setting on both of my cameras just makes an attempt to keep the shutter speed at 1/focal length. It would take a pretty drastic change in lighting to go from 1/8000+ where you need an ND filter to 1/80 where your ISO would automatically increase.

I use B+W filters and have no experience with Kenko filters.

why not just set your ISO to 100...

Max shutter speed is 1/4000. T3i.

I've just tried it and this I dont understand: In the sunlight, the 4000 blink until f2.8. However the camera take the photo anyway at f1.8. The picture look fine in the LCD. At 2.8, the 4000 stop blinking and the photo look identical to the f1.8 except for the DoF. Will I have a bad surprise when I check the RAW file?

What mode are you shooting in, ie AV, P, TV, green square? And what ISO? Auto ISO?

Earwax69 wrote in post #14868836
Max shutter speed is 1/4000. T3i.

I've just tried it and this I dont understand: In the sunlight, the 4000 blink until f2.8. However the camera take the photo anyway at f1.8. The picture look fine in the LCD. At 2.8, the 4000 stop blinking and the photo look identical to the f1.8 except for the DoF. Will I have a bad surprise when I check the RAW file?

The shot at 1.8 will have some blown highlights, for sure. The difference between 2.8 and 1.8 is only 1-1/3 stop; the highlight flashing on the LCD, can start on a surprisingly well exposed shot, so you have some leeway. For best results though, ISO 100, 1/4000, and/or a 3-stop ND. You can bring down some of the highlights in post as well.

Yes, generally auto ISO except when I do macro. Mode is AV or TV, depending on the situation.

I just wonder, if the 1/4000 is blinking, how come the picture is not overexposed? The camera compensate by bringing down the levels from Raw to Jpeg?

EDIT: thanks 1Tanker, kinda what I thought.

it depends on how you were metering for the shot....clearly 1/4000 f2.8 wasn't the right exposure for what you wanted

Mmm... I dont follow you. 1/4000 at f2.8 was perfectly exposed. That was the maximum opening I could go before the numbers start blinking. At f1.8, (the desired aperture), the blinking indicated that it was wrong.

That mean that yes, I need a 3-stop ND filter if I want to use f1.8 in bright sunlight at ISO 100.

It's around 20$ on amazon for 58mm size.

Earwax69 wrote in post #14869324
Mmm... I dont follow you. 1/4000 at f2.8 was perfectly exposed. That was the maximum opening I could go before the numbers start blinking. At f1.8, (the desired aperture), the blinking indicated that it was wrong.

That mean that yes, I need a 3-stop ND filter if I want to use f1.8 in bright sunlight at ISO 100.

It's around 20$ on amazon for 58mm size.

I would stick with a well respected brand.. such as B+W or Hoya. Be prepared to spend much more than $20..more like, over $50.

Hoya...58mm Hoya 3-stop ND DMC


B+W...58mm B+W 3-Stop ND-MRC

Kenko is Hoya. Same product, Kenko in Japan, Hoya in other countries.

^Zeiss is made by Cosina,,but that doesn't mean the Zeiss lenses are using Cosina-specs.

Mmm yeah. I've been reading a bit and Kenko bought Hoya a while ago. Kenko filters are everywhere in Japan and got good enough reviews on amazon. However you might be right. I'll check for B+W filters.