Filter Recommendations Please

With my B-Day approaching I'm considering some filters, ND's and Polorizer. A set of Lee's ND's sounds great, but I can't justify the cost at the moment. Back in the day, Hoya and Tiffen circulars seemed to do the trick, but that was 15+ years ago. How do they compare today? Better elsewhere? Cokin was always looked down at back then. Today?

Id like an ND set of 1,2, and 3 stops and a polarizer all that will fit up to 77mm.

Thanks for any recommendations.

Just found my Cokin Graduated Filters in the garage after 7 years of not using them, love them and never had any problems with them, even after 7 years in storeage. Also use a Tiffen Polarizer on my own camera with no problems, and recently got a Promaster polarizer for my work camera, no issues with any of them . Also use a Hoya UV filter which has lasted well.

I use a holder with an adaptor ring for the graduated filters, that way just buy an adaptor ring if I buy any new lenses.

I have not a single complaint with the CPL in my sig. I don't use it as much as I should/could, but I'm never disappointed when I do.

For the birthday I would suggest a first class CPL and/or a VND for shooting moving water. The rest of the filter effects you can do in post processing with filter effects in Aperture, LR, PSE, PS, Nik.....etc.

I use both Marumi and Hoya CPLs, and both have been fine. My Hoya's are HMC, but I no longer remember the difference between that and the S-HMC. Both are multi-coated.

B+W is my choice. Instead of a 1, 3, and 3 stop I would go with a 3, 6 and 10 stop. The polarizer can serve as your 1-2 stop if you need less than 3 stop. That's the set up I'm going for and am just a 10 stop short of a complete set.

B&H sells a set of Tiffen NDs for about $50, depending on size. They are 2, 3 and 4 stop filters. They aren't B+W, but may be nice enough to play with before you drop some serious money on high-quality stuff.

I bought a 10 stop B&W and a Hoya Pro1 CPL.
I also have a variety of Cokin filters.
Good quality filters.

Thanks all for the advice. Lots of ways I can go at this I can see.

If I were to mix it up and try to keep my cost down I may go both circular (CPL) and 4x5 Singh Ray or Hitech with a Cokin Z-Pro Filter Holder instead of Lee. I do agree that post processing may also give me some of the results I'm looking for, so I'll have to play around on the cheap first.

Any opinions on the quality of Hitech 4x5's? I read somewhere that, color-wise, it wasn't very accurate. Again post processing could fix this, but just curious.

As far as ND filters go these days, isn't that where HDR has come into play so-to-speak? I know that this is a touchy subject for some, but so wasn't going from film to digital not too long ago.

Ynot wrote in post #14924594
Thanks all for the advice. Lots of ways I can go at this I can see.

If I were to mix it up and try to keep my cost down I may go both circular (CPL) and 4x5, but I agree that post processing may also give me some of the results I'm looking for.

Any opinions on the quality of Hitech 4x5's? I read somewhere that, color-wise, it wasn't very accurate. Again post processing could fix this, but just curious.

As far as ND filters go these days, isn't that where HDR has come into play so-to-speak? I know that this is a touchy subject for some, but so wasn't going from film to digital not too long ago.

For GND's, yes.. but for straight ND filters, you can't duplicate their effect in pp; streaky clouds, blurred water(unless taken at night).

The CPL is the more important filter to get... make sure it's a good one. My favorite is B+W Kaesemann. Top quality and nicely multi-coated. A Circular Polarizer's effects are near impossible to duplicate very well in software.

I suspect you don't want 1, 2, 3 stop ND filters.... I bet you want 1, 2, 3 Graduated ND filters.... Maybe.

Actually you can do the same thing as an ND Grad filter, except better in my opinion, by taking multiple shots at different settings, then combining the best of each in your post processing software. It's also possible to double or triple process a single RAW file... one for the lighter areas, another for the dark areas... and possibly a third if needed for the mid-tones... then combine them in Photoshop (or similar) using layers. Some HDR softwares work pretty well, too. I recently used the HDR built into Photoshop on some images with really good results.

One reason I find this method is "better" than a Grad ND filter is because my "horizons" are seldom a straight line, but the line of graduation across the filter always is and always will be. Usually there's a buiding or a mountain or trees or other objects that make for an uneven horizon line. So working the image in software makes for better results... for me. Note: you likely definitely don't want screw-in Grad NDs... they put the horizon line right at the middle all the time, every time. So, unless you always put the horizon there in your images, the rectangular type that you can better position are probably a better choice.

Another reason is that Grad ND filters are mostly uncoated and difficult to shade very well with any sort of hood. That can lead to flare and other loss of image quality.

And, most of the more affordable filters are optical plastic... Fine when new, but pretty easily damaged or scratched in regular use or with regular cleanings. As a result, eventually they'll have even more negative effects on your images or need to be replaced with some regularity.

I have a couple of Grad NDs, holders, hoods, etc... But frankly I haven't used them in years. It's just too easy and, IMO, better to make the adjustments in post processing.

If you have never used Grad ND but want to give them a try, I'd suggest you get the Cokins and experiment with them, see if you want to put a set of filters in your kit on a more permanent basis. Then you could buy better quality.

For a 77mm filter thread, you'll need the "P" size filters, at least. If it's a very wide lens, you might need to trim the holder, which is made to accept two filters, but the front slot can be cut down to prevent vignetting. Ultrawide lenses might need the even larger "XP" size filters... but hopefully not. If you decide you want two or three Grad ND in your kit permanently, Lee and others make them in the Cokin P size.... most don't make them in the smaller A size or the larger XP size. Lee makes an accordian type lens hood for use with the Cokin P filter holders, too.

Last time I looked Cokin only has two Grad NDs... one stop and two stop approx. I think they call them "Graduated Gray", rather than Grad ND. They are pretty "soft" transition, which is appropriate for wide angle to normal lenses. Some other manufacturers also offer "hard" transition, which work better with telephoto lenses.

Now, you might have trouble finding Cokin stuff right now. I believe they are in bankruptcy/reorganizat​ion... but haven't checked lately and have to think that someone will pick up the brand and put it back in production... meanwhile there are a lot of Cokin filters still in stores so you likely can find what you need... or you can go to the other manufacturers (such as Lee, Singh Ray, Tiffen) who make filters to fit Cokin holders.

If you were thinking of straight ND filters, overall gray filters used to slow down your shutter speeds for those flowing water effects or to allow using large apertures on brighter days (since DSLRs have limited low ISO choices).... popular particularly with videographers using DSLRs for their shallow DOF effects... then get the high quality screw-in type such as B+W MRC. You'll probably want stronger ones, though, as someone already suggested. Maybe 3 or 6 stops (they also can be stacked together if really strong ND effect is needed.)

There are variable ND filters, that you can dial in for stronger or weaker effect similar to using a polarizer. However, most of the more affordable ones reportedly tend to cause color casts and other unpleasant effects. The better ones are waaaaayyyy expensive (Singh Ray).

Thanks all. This has helped a great deal.

I am convinced that I can achieve most, not all, effects in PS, so that helps. It's the other effects that put me in a pickle. For instance, can I PP and get say a Big Stopper result? I'll have to look for a PP photos thread.

I need a CPL either way, so I'll get that first along with step down rings for my other glass. PP will allow me to put more cash into this filter.

Again, thanks a bunch for all the advice.

I use this, and very happy with it.
http://www.singh-ray.com/colorcombo.htm​l

amfoto1 wrote in post #14924865
The CPL is the more important filter to get... make sure it's a good one. My favorite is B+W Kaesemann. Top quality and nicely multi-coated. A Circular Polarizer's effects are near impossible to duplicate very well in software.

I suspect you don't want 1, 2, 3 stop ND filters.... I bet you want 1, 2, 3 Graduated ND filters.... Maybe.

...

NOTE: These thoughts are from my experiences using these filters on a 7D + 10-22 or 24-105L lens combo:

To add a few thoughts to Alan's post, if you have good, graduated filters, you can actually use them as 'solid' NDs, by pushing them far enough down in the holder that only the darkened part is covering the lens; I do this frequently

The B+W Kaesemann is my favorite of the screw-on filters, as well.

Now that I have a full set of Grads, the square polarizer and a Big Stopper (10 stop) filters from Lee, I'm falling more in love with that system every time I use it and using my screw-on filters much less.

They're easier to swap out and have different filter combinations than when trying to use only screw-ons or a combo of screw-on and square filters; and they're very high quality (but you pay for them).

The variable ND filters are nice, and I have quite a bit of use out of my Singh Ray Vari-n-Duo (combo CPL and variable ND [2-8] stop) filter; but, when using wide angle lenses this thing really suffers from bad "patterning" due to the CPL built in, as well as vignetting horribly due to being so thick.

I find that I can use the Big Stopper (and my Grad NDs as noted above) to get anywhere from 1 to 16 stops, without having the patterning problem and vignetting, instead.

The biggest problem with the Lee kit is that it is SO hard to get a hold of all of the elements. The filters are still on back order, most places, and they are not cheap. But they're still the best solution for filters that I've seen, yet.

Based upon this report: http://www.lenstip.com …rs_test_Introdu​ction.html
I bought the Marumi DHG Super CPL. So far, I am very satisfied with it. A very good performer at an attractive price: http://www.amazon.com …+super+circular​+polarizer