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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Sports 
Thread started 10 Sep 2012 (Monday) 09:15
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David Hobbie does night football

 
AB8ND
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Sep 10, 2012 09:15 |  #1

For all wondering how to shoot night football checkout David Hobbie's latest post.
Be sure to read the first section on shooting everything you can before it gets dark.
http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …/friday-night-lights.html (external link)
Sorry he is Nikon shooter, but this applies to all of us.
Jack




  
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rick_reno
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Sep 10, 2012 09:44 |  #2

i like how he mounts that flash...




  
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John ­ Godwin
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Sep 10, 2012 10:16 |  #3

rick_reno wrote in post #14971500 (external link)
i like how he mounts that flash...

From the article.

"One caveat: Since you are flashing on axis and everyone's pupils are nice and wide at night, you will have some major red eye to repair."


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Dan-o
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Sep 10, 2012 11:04 |  #4

And that is why you don't shoot on axis. Get the flash 18" up or down.


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AZAlphaDog
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Sep 10, 2012 11:21 as a reply to  @ Dan-o's post |  #5

18 inches isn't enough, I'm just short of 36 inches and I still get red-eye sometimes, very fixable red-eye, not difficult to fix zombie-eye but still sometimes red-eye.


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Sep 10, 2012 15:24 |  #6

Dan-o wrote in post #14971846 (external link)
And that is why you don't shoot on axis. Get the flash 18" up or down.

Red eye is an easy fix


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Sep 10, 2012 15:27 |  #7

agree
so is the easy red eye fix worth more light?

Id say so everytime

thoughts?


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Dan-o
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Sep 10, 2012 15:32 |  #8

While red eye is an easy fix, just keeping your flash off axis eliminates it. Demon eye is not an easy fix and you end up with a bunch of it with the flash on axis.

so is the easy red eye fix worth more light?

How is he getting more light by attaching it to the lens hood?


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Sep 10, 2012 15:52 |  #9

1. I would think more direct light aimed at the subject maybe not it all defuses?
2. we cant use flashes here but its an intresting idea
3. I could be wrong which is usually the case


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Sep 10, 2012 15:54 |  #10

More light is worth getting some red eye, but on-axis red eye often results in zombie eye and is near impossible to fix. I just tried shooting on-axis with my second camera last Friday night and the best shot I took had the zombie affect and lightroom couldn't fix it, so it was unusable. I agree with Dan-O on this.


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MJPhotos24
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Sep 10, 2012 18:29 |  #11

elrey2375 wrote in post #14973038 (external link)
Red eye is an easy fix

...and can get you fired.

Minor adjustments in Photoshop are acceptable. These include cropping, dodging and burning, conversion into grayscale, and normal toning and color adjustments that should be limited to those minimally necessary for clear and accurate reproduction (analogous to the burning and dodging previously used in darkroom processing of images) and that restore the authentic nature of the photograph. Changes in density, contrast, color and saturation levels that substantially alter the original scene are not acceptable. Backgrounds should not be digitally blurred or eliminated by burning down or by aggressive toning. The removal of “red eye” from photographs is not permissible.

Just for those that want to learn the differences...

If you're doing something for yourself you have creative freedom to do anything you want - and mean pretty much anything as it's for you and nobody else, you like what you like in your photo illustration. If you're working for a client then you do what they want with your creative knowledge as well, in other words your vision under their guidelines - for example know one site that sells prints that has no problem with photographers removing red eye, by all means do it if they allow it and it makes for a better image, this would include prints for parents on personal sites. If working PJ or if someone like a newspaper asks for an image as they often do nowadays with citizen journalism there are more strict guidelines in place that you need to know. If you send it in and an editor does something like reducing red eye that's their decision - they'll often rename it "photo illustration", but that's their choice. Don't just listen to one persons bad advice of fix it in photoshop, know when and what is OK dependent on the situation - this is why many clients often ask for the RAW image to make sure nothing was done.


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elrey2375
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Sep 10, 2012 18:48 |  #12

MJPhotos24 wrote in post #14973737 (external link)
...and can get you fired.

Minor adjustments in Photoshop are acceptable. These include cropping, dodging and burning, conversion into grayscale, and normal toning and color adjustments that should be limited to those minimally necessary for clear and accurate reproduction (analogous to the burning and dodging previously used in darkroom processing of images) and that restore the authentic nature of the photograph. Changes in density, contrast, color and saturation levels that substantially alter the original scene are not acceptable. Backgrounds should not be digitally blurred or eliminated by burning down or by aggressive toning. The removal of “red eye” from photographs is not permissible.

I'm not sure anyone is shooting high school football for the AP. :rolleyes:


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Sep 10, 2012 19:17 |  #13

I dont think so either
Im gonna try this out sometime

would under the lens and shoot low be good?
Ive seen some dudes shoot with 2 remotes on the bottom of their monopod

any ideas?


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Sep 10, 2012 19:49 |  #14

MJPhotos24 wrote in post #14973930 (external link)
Not sure what you're rolling your eyes about...

I guess these 178 pages of 10,678 images do not exist? (external link)

Not to mention what standards do you think most newspapers/photographe​rs follow?

Lastly, you realize most newspapers belong to the AP group submission wise and can/do send their images through them? Even the ones not on the site (i.e. not showing up in that search) still go through AP database. I'm not exactly sure how that works as I've seen images published via AP taken by the local newspaper photographer but they never appeared on the site, but there is a backend system there. I'd have to ask our guy who's a newspaper editor how that all works, he's explained it before but not in awhile.

So yea, :rolleyes:

If you read the story, which I have my doubts about, you would have read that he's doing this for himself and for the school. I doubt he or the school give a rat's ass about AP photo rules. I know what the photo rules are and I follow them. This is more about people who shoot games because their kids play or because they went to school there, etc. There's no need to come into an informative thread for THOSE people and throw your wet blanket around. I know a lot of people on here who shoot football for fun and are interested in how to shoot it with a flash.

So yea...


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Sep 10, 2012 20:29 |  #15

Another issue with mounting the flash so close to the lens is that dust, mist, light rain, etc will illuminate right in front of the lens and cause a haze or fog over the image. I would not mount there and deal with the shadows caused by mounting the flash directly in line and above (or below) the lens axis.
He is also using the flash for fill as you can see ball shadow from stadium lights across #21 in the last image. At 1/250 sec this causes too much ghosting for my taste. I see what he is going for but at my HS stadiums there isn't enought light and there is no light in the red zone.


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David Hobbie does night football
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