And he's thinking, "Hmm, I get paid for this."
All alone with nobody in the water. An easy evening in Ormond Beach, Florida.
I grew up in Southern California and could ride waves by the age of seven. I spent my teens and twenties surfing every day. Then I moved to Georgia and found out that the Atlantic Ocean, second largest on the planet, has big waves, medium waves, and small waves. I happen to live 250 miles from the smallest waves in the entire Atlantic Ocean (no joke). The nearest beach: Tybee Island. The biggest I've ever ridden it was four feet during a powerful hurricane swell, and even that flattened out at low tide. Lake flat.












How you doing man?
... I dont blame you! No way will I swim when others have to wear hoods. Thats when my big lens step up.
