Camera Upgrade Opinion.

Hi everyone, I'm new here. I found this website by googling "Canon Loyalty Program." As of currently I have a canon XS (I'm still a new, budding photographer) and I was wondering which would be a better upgrade for myself? If not familiar with the two cameras, the main major differences are the 60d has 9 AF points and 7D has 19. 60D shoots 5.3fps and 7D 8. 60D has 120ms more shutter lag. But the 60D is around $400-$500 cheaper (depending on where you buy it.)

Thanks in advance for the opinions.

If you are still new to photography, what do you find limiting you right now about your XS? What lenses do you have?

Key consideration in using the Canon Loyalty Program is the equipment you get must be shipped to the USA. Your profile doesn't indicate your location. Don't trade the XS in under the CLP. Get yourself something cheap off eBay or a local Goodwill/Salvation Army store.

As Christina has stated, what lenses do you have? Most should be useable on either camera being considered.

I would not worry much about shutter lag unless you do sports, and to be honest I can fire off a burst (with my 60D) of shots of horses jumping over a fence, and likely always find a great keeper.

Christina.DazzleByDesi​gn wrote in post #15060893
If you are still new to photography, what do you find limiting you right now about your XS? What lenses do you have?

My XS only goes to 4000 and has terrible ISO noise when I boost it up just a bit. And for right now I have the 50mm 1.8, 28-200mm 3.5, and the kit lens. It's also slower than what I want it to be. I was going to buy a 35mm 2.0 lens when I purchased either of those as well.

I think the biggest difference between new and seasoned DSLR photographers is Crop vs FF.
If you plan to stay "unseasoned" ... not much delta between the specs you quote other than $.
To me the problem with Crop is 1. too small pixels and to a smaller degree 2. too small frame.

EL_PIC wrote in post #15060913
I think the biggest difference between new and seasoned DSLR photographers is Crop vs FF.
If you plan to stay "unseasoned" ... not much delta between the specs you quote other than $.
To me the problem with Crop is 1. too small pixels and to a smaller degree 2. too small frame.

Yeah. I eventually want to upgrade to the 5D either Mark ii or Mark iii. But I don't think I'm ready for that yet.

I think 60d's can be had really cheap now and unless you shoot fast moving sports, this would be an awesome upgrade from the xs for probably under $800.

This is what I'm talking about with ISO noise:

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60d

Garbage!

I'd say go 60D as well. Price v. features

Definitely the newer sensors are a bit better with higher ISO's (I went from an Xsi to a T3i and can see a difference).

Cheapest way to solve your noise issue on the camera you have (or any camera for that matter) is first shoot RAW and Expose To The Right. Then get yourself a copy of either Lightroom 4.1, Photoshop CS6, or Photoshop Elements 11 so that you can use Adobe's new Process 2012 in either Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw in one of the PS products to process those RAW files. The important thing to remember is that if you expose to the right so the image initially looks bright and then pulling the image back in the software you end up with nice bright well saturated colours with virtually no nise even at ISO1600. If however you have to incresse the brightness even by 0.1 stops on the exposure slider you will start to show noise in the shadows.

Using the software I have suggested I regularly shoot with anything up to +2EV of EC on the camera, and very very rearly less tha +1 stop. As far as I know exposing as far to the right as I am suggesting only works with the latest versions of Adobe's RAW converter. Try it in the old version and you end up with an overexposed mess.

Of course if you want a new camera then great. But then 1 this technique will still work with the new camera and 2 you may well need to upgrade your software anyway to get compatablity with a new camera.

Alan

BigAl007 wrote in post #15061256
Cheapest way to solve your noise issue on the camera you have (or any camera for that matter) is first shoot RAW and Expose To The Right. Then get yourself a copy of either Lightroom 4.1, Photoshop CS6, or Photoshop Elements 11 so that you can use Adobe's new Process 2012 in either Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw in one of the PS products to process those RAW files. The important thing to remember is that if you expose to the right so the image initially looks bright and then pulling the image back in the software you end up with nice bright well saturated colours with virtually no nise even at ISO1600. If however you have to incresse the brightness even by 0.1 stops on the exposure slider you will start to show noise in the shadows.

Using the software I have suggested I regularly shoot with anything up to +2EV of EC on the camera, and very very rearly less tha +1 stop. As far as I know exposing as far to the right as I am suggesting only works with the latest versions of Adobe's RAW converter. Try it in the old version and you end up with an overexposed mess.

Of course if you want a new camera then great. But then 1 this technique will still work with the new camera and 2 you may well need to upgrade your software anyway to get compatablity with a new camera.

Alan

Yeah. I always shoot in RAW and edit in LR and PS.

I shot with a Canon 40D, T2i, and 60D. The only substantial improvement in high ISO noise that I saw was when I started shooting with the 5D. As long as you don't need more than ISO 1600, this is a great camera to use for low-light.

I'd hate to think what most people would say about using film- especially something like 1600 ASA/ISO...

The latest cameras tend to be the ones with the best performance for ISO / noise...

That'd be the t4i, and the 5D3 ..