Question about T3i(600d) and 60d

I bought the t3i 18-55 kit lens for 579+tax(total: $625), but I am questioning my purchase. I heard that the 60d or 7d are around the same price used. Does the approx 100-375 dollar difference justify the price difference?

I am beginner and just want to take pictures during tennis matches, family photos, and nature. However, once I know the basics, I am planning to upgrade. So I am not sure if I should upgrade from the t3i to future pro model or 60d to future pro model?

aznkid248 wrote in post #15062965
I bought the t3i 18-55 kit lens for 579+tax(total: $625), but I am questioning my purchase. I heard that the 60d or 7d are around the same price used. Does the approx 100-375 dollar difference justify the price difference?

I am beginner and just want to take pictures during tennis matches, family photos, and nature. However, once I know the basics, I am planning to upgrade. So I am not sure if I should upgrade from the t3i to future pro model or 60d to future pro model?

I think that at the price you paid for the new T3i + kit lens you got a bargain. I grabbed one for this price (I paid a bit less tax than you) a few weeks back as a backup / take anywhere camera and it's a very capable body.
I wouldn't question your purchase at this point in time as you have a great starter setup that will serve you well for quite a while. Add the 55-250 IS lens plus a 430 EX II flash and you'll be good to go. Take your time with this kit and learn the basics and then decide where to go, but bear in mind it's an expensive game if you read this forum and yearn after the latest and greatest ... it will definitely empty your bank account if you're not careful

Perfect_10 wrote in post #15063523
I think that at the price you paid for the new T3i + kit lens you got a bargain. I grabbed one for this price (I paid a bit less tax than you) a few weeks back as a backup / take anywhere camera and it's a very capable body.
I wouldn't question your purchase at this point in time as you have a great starter setup that will serve you well for quite a while. Add the 55-250 IS lens plus a 430 EX II flash and you'll be good to go. Take your time with this kit and learn the basics and then decide where to go, but bear in mind it's an expensive game if you read this forum and yearn after the latest and greatest ... it will definitely empty your bank account if you're not careful

Well, I just find it a bit annoy when I am taking tennis picture, i get that ghosting effect. Which I am thinking its because of the 3.7 frames per sec. Causes that ghosting effect.
And if I am going to get a better model around 1000, wouldn't it be best to get the 7d for around 1500 instead? Or 60d for 625ish... I just want the best for a good price and not feel like I am buying a dslr that feels like slower.

post a picture - it is not burst mode, it sounds like subject movment in which case you need to increase the shutter speed and possibly the ISO
David

The 7D is probably the best camera for sports and wildlife, for the burst mode and AF system. The 60D has the same 9 point focus system, albeit they are all cross point, but it's not a patch on the 7D. I think you would be better off learning the T3i first though, jumping straight into a 7D might be a bit overwhelming. I've just swapped my 60D for a 7D as I wanted the extra focus points, the fps and the ability to MA lenses, but I actually prefer the IQ of the 60D SOOC.

I'm afraid this is down to user error, the shutter speed is only 1/20th of a second. Motion blur will be apparent at that sort of speed. To reduce motion blur you need to increase your shutter speed. This means either increase the ISO or open up the lens more (Iower f no, which probaly isn't possible with the kit lens) or increase the available light by using flash. A popular recommendation round here is Understanding Exposure by Brian Peterson. The 600d is an awesome camera capable of stunning photos, but you have to learn how to use it to get the best out of it. You may want to consider setting the focus point to the centre point, both ends of the dog are out of focus .

David

Also, with respect to the dog picture, there is only so much you can do and then you have to start thinking of adding a light source. Perfect_10 suggested adding "...a 430 EX II flash."

All the cameras mentioned in this thread are capable of excellent images given decent subject matter conditions and most importantly good skills on the part of the person pushing the shutter release.

The honest truth as I see it.

Without spending another 3K to 4K on a camera- no body upgrade will get you anywhere fast.. None will represent a happy ending for your lower light conditions. Upgrading to a 7D, 60D, or even a t4i- none will make big enough of a change to help with low shutter speeds.. Actually, the 7D and 60D will provide the approximate same shutter speeds- just more accuracy- more ability to track moving subjects-but the same ISO capabilities- so no increase.. The t4i might buy you a little more shutter speed- but probably no where near enough. What they do represent is all cross type AF points- meaning ability to track in AI Servo is boosted- more likely to get a hit as far as in focus pictures. The 7D will do better here- because it's got 19 cross type AF points over the 9 cross type af points of the 60D and t4i. Honestly though- 9 points is enough for most- you are tracking people- not race cars, motor bikes, or 3D helicopters.

With your camera- the T3i- you're better off with something like a 50mm f/1.4 lens or a 85mm f/1.8. Really though- at the conditions listed- like 1/20th second @ 3200 ISO- you are where you need to add light- either continuous lighting or go to strobes like a 430 EX II/ 580 EX II.. The 580 EX II's are stronger- and can help illuminate subjects at a further distance- and that would be my recommendation. With your camera's ability to take flash off camera- you might want to try a set of 580 EX II's or 430 EX II's ... But flash photography is a different aspect of photography- but under your conditions- it's really the better choice.

so your saying its best to keep my dslr and just invest in lenes and a flash?

They're trying to tell you, without insulting you, that the problem isn't the equipment, but the equipment operator. Learn the basics of photography, especially the exposure triangle, and then you'll see what nice shots YOU will take. The camera only records what you tell it to.

The ghosting effect you see is called motion blur. You need to speed up your shutter speed. For Tennis you will need a minimum of 1/640 to avoid too much blur. 1/1000 is better. To achieve such speed you need light. A 7D or 60D will not fix this problem as it is the same for all cameras.

First, dont use the camera in P mode. To control you shutter speed while keeping the rest at automatic, select TV mode and try pushing up the shutter speed. For normal moving human subjects, I always use at least 1/160. For street photography 1/300. If I were to shoot sport, I'll use the highest shutter speed available.

The higher the shutter speed, the higher ISO will jump if you dont have enough light. That mean your pictures will be more noisy. Try and set your ISO to 6400 just to see. I've set ISO 3200 to be the maximum in the menus of my cam.

For night sport like on your pictures, you will need a really fast lens (f1.8 or f1.4) and high ISO speed. Probably 3200 or even 6400. You can apply noise reduction afterward inside your favorite editing software.

http://thediscerningph​otographer.com …ter-speed-in-your-photos/

If you want to do casual low light, I'd recommand getting the ef50mm f1/8 lens. for 100$. For night sport on a budget, I'll look at the ef85mm f1.8 as it is one of the fastest focussing lens canon make. (the 50mm is slow to focus)

If you want the flexibility of a f2.8 zoom on a budget, I think your best bet is the Tamron 28-75mm f2.8. You can find it for 300$. Not super fast to focus but the focal range is good and the image quality is great while being a f2.8 lens.

good luck!

Just play with the T3i for now, and upgrade when the new generation comes if you think you need a more powerful body at that time.

I have heard some rumors that Canon is making a new APS-C sensor which we may see on the 70D or 7D II next year(which does make sense since the current APS-C sensor used in 60D/7D is kind of old).

I guess, I will figure out the t3i's full potential. And buy some lenses n other accessories in the mean time. Once I fell I have a grasp and want to upgrade hopefully by then, the 8d/9d or 80d/90d should be out by then.

I am curious do you guys think I got the t3i for a really good price?

What you paid for the t3i is a decent price. It's still fairly new though just recently replaced by the t4i. The t3i is more than capable to get you some great pics. It may not have a earth shattering burst rate or super fancy low light capability, but it certainly is no slouch.

If your going to shoot a lot of family things and want to try a faster lens you can check out the 50mm f/1.8 . Before you invest in anything more though, read up on the basics of exposure and get into the workings of Tv, Av, P, and M modes. The t3i should give you a pretty clean image up to ISO 3200 so it is lower light capable.