CF Door replace 1DMkIII

Can anyone tell me how to remove the CF Door on my 1dMkIII ?

I just picked up a new replacement from Canon......Thanks !

you'll have to remove some stuck-on grip bits & the back cover from the camera (12 screws) to get the pivot pin out - not a huge problem, but you'll have to be careful not to damage the ribboncable connecting the back cover to the main electronics. There's a link to the service manual on this page (thanks Lannes!)

how on earth did you break one? they built like proverbial brick faecal-houses...

I believe that you have to remove the back cover from the body first and then the hinge pin will slide out in an upwards direction. Removing the rear cover will probably necessitate buying some new grip surface panels as they are fixed using double sided tape.

Bob

Canon Bob wrote in post #15189698
Removing the rear cover will probably necessitate buying some new grip surface panels as they are fixed using double sided tape.

Bob

carefully removing the grip bits can result in their re-use...

joeseph wrote in post #15189674
you'll have to remove some stuck-on grip bits & the back cover from the camera (12 screws) to get the pivot pin out - not a huge problem, but you'll have to be careful not to damage the ribboncable connecting the back cover to the main electronics. There's a link to the service manual on this page (thanks Lannes!)

how on earth did you break one? they built like proverbial brick faecal-houses...

This is a classic case of "research before you buy"

The rubber grip is starting to come off of the CF Door I have now and also most of the time it won't "spring" open when you release it.

I figured a new door was a quick and easy fix even with the $34 price tag

As an engineer, I would have attempted to use some of the RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) adhesive sealants that are readily available in hardware stores to repair the covering. I have done similiar type repairs over the years and many have held up better than what was originally supplied. These sealants come in black and clear, just make sure they also state adhesive on the tube. Acetic acid is often the curing agent so use sparingly but coat all problem surfaces with a thin coat and hold in place with some duct tape.

As to the spring, just knowing about the shortcoming, is it a situation that one can live with? Perhaps start using the intended cable transfer of images? If not, and I say this not knowing what the spring looks like or even if accessible, but can it be stretched a bit while in place to restore its "springiness"?

John from PA wrote in post #15189952
As an engineer, I would have attempted to use some of the RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) adhesive sealants that are readily available in hardware stores to repair the covering. I have done similiar type repairs over the years and many have held up better than what was originally supplied. These sealants come in black and clear, just make sure they also state adhesive on the tube. Acetic acid is often the curing agent so use sparingly but coat all problem surfaces with a thin coat and hold in place with some duct tape.

As to the spring, just knowing about the shortcoming, is it a situation that one can live with? Perhaps start using the intended cable transfer of images? If not, and I say this not knowing what the spring looks like or even if accessible, but can it be stretched a bit while in place to restore its "springiness"?

Thanks for the response, definitely something I can live with on both issues, if the door doesn't "spring" open I just grab it with a fingernail while opening the door release.

Now that I already own the replacement door I will see how much Canon will charge to replace for me next time the camera needs cleaning (soon).

alexxn wrote in post #15189929
The rubber grip is starting to come off of the CF Door I have now and also most of the time it won't "spring" open when you release it.

ahh see... the grip material is just stuck on with double-sided tape so not too difficult to sort out. The spring open thing seems common with these doors - my 1D MK II has the same problem (and I had it in bits at one stage to convert to IR, so should really have spent 5 minutes looking at that while it was apart!)

One day if it annoys me enough I'll take the back off again to see what the actual problem is...