Viable/Professional to shoot weddings with rebels and good glass?

I was just curious as to whether clients might get upset or anything of the sorts if a photographer was shooting weddings with rebels but have excellent fast glass and good off camera lighting and an understanding of lighting? The reason why I'm asking this is because I feel as though there isn't much quality difference between 1.6X crop factor DSLR's and FF's.

I was thinking about eventually upgrading my 450D to a T3i and having two T3i's at hand one with a 17-55 2.8 and the second with a 70-200 2.8.

Reason being is that the extra 6mp's give me better printing capability's and more cropping/low light noise capability's and it has way better low light capability's than my 450D so it would b worth the small price premium vs say getting 60D's/7D's. All of these cameras have the same very accurate and f 2.8 center af point so that's all that I would be using with all of these cameras anyways but the extra mega pixels, reduced high iso noise, and higher iso capability's would lead to me upgrade to them.

Why not? The proof is in the final pictures...

Agreed, it really all comes down to the final product.

Personally, I would never shoot a wedding with a crop censored body, I love shooting ambient light and as such have to use some really high ISOs, thats where the full frame files come in. But thats just me. I don't even shoot weddings

Most wedding pros use FF bodies.

I don't doubt the Rebels are up to the task but consider whether they are up to task for every single moment you need them to...

joeblack2022 wrote in post #15280368
I don't doubt the Rebels are up to the task but consider whether they are up to task for every single moment you need them to...

Considering I picked up my 450D used and average around 600 photos a week for the past 8 months now and a good amount of abuse (no case or anything) I think that they're quite durable.......Thanks for the input guys. Looks like I'll just be picking up a T3i for cheap and getting a 70-200 for it and eventually getting a second T3i.

As for the guy that said he only shoots available lighting that doesn't look as good in my experience when it comes to a fast paced event such as a wedding....you end up with blown backgrounds most of the time (you'll have no other choise but to have blown backgrounds at some points if you use only available light) that over weigh your subject, harsh contrast, and it doesn't appeal to me at all as even a simple bounce flashing and/or off camera flash/reflectors/fill lighting can go a long ways to better lighting/images.

Most people wouldn't know a rebel from a pro spec, especially nowdays with smaller technology. Just take good photos and your right 6mp is enough for most needs

True, after looking into it a little further looks like I'll be going the T2i route, you can get them using the Canon Loyalty Program for only $380 which is $100 cheaper than the T3i.....I could care less about video performance out of a camera.

Sovern wrote in post #15280480
True, after looking into it a little further looks like I'll be going the T2i route, you can get them using the Canon Loyalty Program for only $380 which is $100 cheaper than the T3i.....I could care less about video performance out of a camera.

Good luck finding anything available on Canon Refurbished right now :P
They're having a sale with better-than-CLP prices, without the turn-in-your-old-camera requirement.

Sovern wrote in post #15280480
True, after looking into it a little further looks like I'll be going the T2i route, you can get them using the Canon Loyalty Program for only $380 which is $100 cheaper than the T3i.....I could care less about video performance out of a camera.

lots of bargains available now but if there is a reason wedding photographers prefer full frame models

There is a big difference in bodies. Dual control wheels are critical in my opinion. Not being able to instantly adjust aperture and shutter at the same time is a big downfall of the Rebel line.

Gregg.Siam wrote in post #15282514
There is a big difference in bodies. Dual control wheels are critical in my opinion. Not being able to instantly adjust aperture and shutter at the same time is a big downfall of the Rebel line.

Yea, I never felt the need to be able to change shutter and aperture a the same time, both can be done extremely fast. On the same token I don't think that an extra $300 for the 60D is worth it for dual control wheels and a slightly better interface.

I think if you can get away with it, go for it. More money saved on equipment is more money in your pocket!

However, I went from a T2i to a 40D and the controls/ergonomics/AF difference was insane. ISO performance wasn't as great but I made up for that with faster glass and strobes (that can be used with a newer body when I get one). When I tried my 40D for the first time and hit the AF on and it locked on to my focus point instantly and with authority I was sold. It also fit much better in my hand.

The LCD screen up top is nice as well (easier to see when the camera is hanging down, easier to see in sun, the light shining on your face isn't distracting to people,etc.).

The control wheel is sweet, but I never understood people complaining about the Rebel's aperture/shutter speed adjustment. Use the wheel for SS, then use the wheel while holding a button for aperture.. no biggie there.

Also keep in mind with the T3i v. T2i that the T3i has wireless flash control built in. I'm guessing you'll use radio triggers but something to keep in mind.

I'm sure there is a benefit to FF for weddings, but when you are a budget shooter I think the rebels will be just fine. If you/customers notice a difference in the quality of your images compared to others than maybe it is time to reconsider.

On the face of it, no it doens't matter, so long as you have the right focal length (and fast enough) lenses to cover your needs, but of course there's much more to it than that, some of which has already been touched on.

Rebels have a much shorter shutter life - mine gave up at around 10,000 actuations (that was a 300d some years ago). Personally I would at least upgrade to a XXD range body, even if it's a secondhand one, they're much tougher and will last longer.

Having owned a 300d, 20d, 30d, and now 5D1, there is no way I would shoot weddings professionally with a rebel series camera, but that has nothing to do with the sensor size/image quality, and everything to do with reliability.

At the very least, you will need to make sure you have TWO rebel bodies for redundancy as you don't want to be stuck with nothing if one fails, and IMHO that's far more likely with a rebel/entry level model.

However even with a better body it's still a massive risk to take.

If you're just shooting weddings for friends for little-to-no charge then it's not too much of a worry, but if you're charging good money, you need to have that assurance that if something goes wrong, you have a backup to carry on with.

HLxDrummer wrote in post #15283130
I think if you can get away with it, go for it. More money saved on equipment is more money in your pocket!

However, I went from a T2i to a 40D and the controls/ergonomics/AF difference was insane. ISO performance wasn't as great but I made up for that with faster glass and strobes (that can be used with a newer body when I get one). When I tried my 40D for the first time and hit the AF on and it locked on to my focus point instantly and with authority I was sold. It also fit much better in my hand.

The LCD screen up top is nice as well (easier to see when the camera is hanging down, easier to see in sun, the light shining on your face isn't distracting to people,etc.).

The control wheel is sweet, but I never understood people complaining about the Rebel's aperture/shutter speed adjustment. Use the wheel for SS, then use the wheel while holding a button for aperture.. no biggie there.

Also keep in mind with the T3i v. T2i that the T3i has wireless flash control built in. I'm guessing you'll use radio triggers but something to keep in mind.

arumdevil wrote in post #15283214
On the face of it, no it doens't matter, so long as you have the right focal length (and fast enough) lenses to cover your needs, but of course there's much more to it than that, some of which has already been touched on.

Rebels have a much shorter shutter life - mine gave up at around 10,000 actuations (that was a 300d some years ago). Personally I would at least upgrade to a XXD range body, even if it's a secondhand one, they're much tougher and will last longer.

Having owned a 300d, 20d, 30d, and now 5D1, there is no way I would shoot weddings professionally with a rebel series camera, but that has nothing to do with the sensor size/image quality, and everything to do with reliability.

At the very least, you will need to make sure you have TWO rebel bodies for redundancy as you don't want to be stuck with nothing if one fails, and IMHO that's far more likely with a rebel/entry level model.

However even with a better body it's still a massive risk to take.

If you're just shooting weddings for friends for little-to-no charge then it's not too much of a worry, but if you're charging good money, you need to have that assurance that if something goes wrong, you have a backup to carry on with.

I'm sure there is a benefit to FF for weddings, but when you are a budget shooter I think the rebels will be just fine. If you/customers notice a difference in the quality of your images compared to others than maybe it is time to reconsider.

Interesting, I'll keep all of that in mind. How would you rate the differences between the 30D and the full frame 5D1?

Don't you find the ISO noise differences and image quality/crop ability a big hindrance with the 40D compared to the T2i? You're correct that I'll be using radio flash triggers.

I never had any major complaints with the handling/controls of the rebels so I wouldn't upgrade based off of that a lone. I don't see much of a point in a top LCD that shows my settings either though as the main LCD already does that.

The only thing that I wish my rebel had was a dedicated histogram button that I could switch back and forth.

Considering you can get a 5Dc for around $600-$650, I think you should. Having a 1.6x crop and FF gives your lenses 2 lives. I used to have that format combo and it's a great one. Even today, I still shoot a 1.3x crop and a FF for the same reason. ISO3200 on the 5Dc is more than useable, just don't underexpose...