Alternative to HSS in bright sunlight?

#59 is NOT worth a reply.

I trust the OP has been able to dig the useful information out of all the drivel. (So of which I supplied.)

Its probably time for the moderator(s) to turn this off before someone says something else insulting. René?

Before the hammer comes down, I just want to say that I wish I had nice Subjects like Bobby does

windpig wrote in post #15292089
Before the hammer comes down, I just want to say that I wish I had nice Subjects like Bobby does

You will find nice subjects for the shoot if you bring your wife along as an assistent.

You da man Bobby. Great example. Its not hard folks. If im outdoors, i usually have an ND and a circular stacked.

I often find that writing on a subject and reading it back aids understanding. Especially in considering facts.

dmward wrote in post #15292042
I trust the OP has been able to dig the useful information out of all the drivel. (So of which I supplied.)

Useful information or drivel?

Heres a couple of quotes from your posts which I've been trying to fathom. Clicking the blue arrow will take you to the post. Could you please explain what category these statements belong to, and explain how you arrive at your conclusion.. Clarification would be extremely useful, especially so for the OP, I'd imagine. Poor beggar, he probably doesn't have a clue now.

dmward wrote in post #15286985
Sunny 16 equivalents at ISO 100 are 1/100 at F16, F11 at 1/200 sync speed, 1/6400 at F2.8 which means that the speedlite can match the sun within a range of 2.3 to 5ft at F2.8.

FEC gives back, as one would expect, distance for effective exposure.

How do those figures work out - specifically 1/6400 @ f2.8, that doesn't fall in line with anything else you quoted, and neither does it to Sunny 16? By my reckoning you must have meant 1/6400 @ f2? Between a 2.3 to 5ft distance there is almost a 3 stop variance. Thats a very wide approximation. Is it 2.3ft or 5ft or could it be something else, like.. does it really apply to the f2 which should have been there or something else? Then, that FEC how does that work when your flash is already beating itself to death in HSS at the top end of your ranges? Do you just set +1 and get double the light and more distance? Are you using some automatic TTL method here which is rather squiffy on the details? How DO you get more distance here? Is your use of 'effective exposure' a convenient way of disguising holes in this information.. ?

dmward wrote in post #15287132
Wilt; Your example is mathematically correct. I think the disconnect is that, when attempting to use flash with ambient light (particularly bright ambient) an ND filter is used for its influence on aperture rather than shutter speed.

So reducing the shutter speed from 1/1600s to 1/200s by using a x3 ND filter (as in my example post #59), and the general use of ND filters for this shutter speed reduction purpose.. is ACTUALLY due to what are you saying?

.

If I may something as the OP of this thread.... Thank you to all who responded with all your information/expertise/​opinions, etc. I have to admit, as others have posted that this thread went waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay further into detail than I had expected. I got what I was looking for in regards to my general question and honestly, came away a bit confused with all these details. But yet, thank you to all for answering my question.

Let's please keep the respect for one another as we're all here to learn and help and enjoy great discussions.