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Thread started 02 Dec 2012 (Sunday) 20:03
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Tweeking your composition on the field... any tricks? (for 35f1.4)

 
Earwax69
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Dec 02, 2012 20:03 |  #1

Hi, here's the deal: I want to get the new Sigma 35mm and a 6D soon. Now I am on crop with a 85mm f1.8. It give me good results but it's hard to get a bad photo from this lens as you only get a tiny bit of background and it's all blurry anyway. The 35mm will be a totally different beast, leaving a lot more place to error.

When I take photo outside, generally street people or urban objects, It's generally a work of intuition rather than precision. I snatch the moment, recomposing the shot in post, cropping in my image to get the framing I want. However I often only realise how stupid I was not to take the photo differently only when I'm in front of the computer. Should I had push that chair 30cm to the left, the photo would have been a winner... Those lines on the carpet totally destroy the comp, I should have turn it 30 degrees, and so on. I bet good photographers take a lot of time, carefully planning every details of the picture. Taking photos after photos to make sure everything is perfect.

Care to share some of your tricks?


Canon 6D | S35mm f1.4 | 135mm f2 The rest: T3i, 20D, 15mm f2.8, 15-85mm, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f1.8, 85mm f1.8, 90mm f2.8 macro, 55-250mm.
So long and thanks for all the fish

  
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TooManyShots
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Dec 02, 2012 20:19 |  #2
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Having a shallow DOF does not make a good photo..:) It only shows that you don't know how to incorporate the background surrounding as part of your over all shot. Tricks? There is no trick. You just have to visualize how the shot will come out before pulling the trigger, given with various DOF/F stops and shutter speed. That's it. You don't figure out how to take the shot after the shot has been taken. The process is BEFORE, not AFTER. :)


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Earwax69
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Dec 02, 2012 21:12 |  #3

Yes of course, I do know the basic rules and I do an effort before taking the pict, I'm not just firing away at random! However the 85mm+DoF make the subject stend out without much BG visible. I just want to convey that the 35mm will be more challenging.

Here's some exemple of workflow tricks that come's to mind;

- In the street, find your background first, then wait for the subject to walk in...

- In the viewfinder, watch for the general lines of the photo, keeping in mind the golden rules...

- Take your time, force yourself to rethink your photo after the first shot...

- Check your shots on an Ipad before leaving the spot, it might give you a better analysis of missed opportunities...

- Avoid llamas, they spit on you...


Canon 6D | S35mm f1.4 | 135mm f2 The rest: T3i, 20D, 15mm f2.8, 15-85mm, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f1.8, 85mm f1.8, 90mm f2.8 macro, 55-250mm.
So long and thanks for all the fish

  
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TooManyShots
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Dec 02, 2012 22:11 |  #4
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Earwax69 wrote in post #15318268 (external link)
Yes of course, I do know the basic rules and I do an effort before taking the pict, I'm not just firing away at random! However the 85mm+DoF make the subject stend out without much BG visible. I just want to convey that the 35mm will be more challenging.

Here's some exemple of workflow tricks that come's to mind;

- In the street, find your background first, then wait for the subject to walk in...

- In the viewfinder, watch for the general lines of the photo, keeping in mind the golden rules...

- Take your time, force yourself to rethink your photo after the first shot...

- Check your shots on an Ipad before leaving the spot, it might give you a better analysis of missed opportunities...

- Avoid llamas, they spit on you...

Ipad??? You mean the LCD isn't good enough to check for your composition and you need an Ipad for it???


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Earwax69
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Dec 02, 2012 22:37 |  #5

Mmm yeah, you might be right. Still it's a bit small and outside in the sun, I dont feel you get the best feedback. You see pros shooting models outside with the macbook pro just aside to check the picts...


Canon 6D | S35mm f1.4 | 135mm f2 The rest: T3i, 20D, 15mm f2.8, 15-85mm, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f1.8, 85mm f1.8, 90mm f2.8 macro, 55-250mm.
So long and thanks for all the fish

  
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TooManyShots
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Dec 02, 2012 23:24 |  #6
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Earwax69 wrote in post #15318641 (external link)
Mmm yeah, you might be right. Still it's a bit small and outside in the sun, I dont feel you get the best feedback. You see pros shooting models outside with the macbook pro just aside to check the picts...


Yeah, but you aren't pros and you aren't shooting models.....:rolleyes: You are shooting street photography. Back in the days, people shoot film with a rangefinder. The photographer becomes one with the street. He or she would try to be inconspicuous as possible. Here, you are reviewing photos with a ipad in the middle of the street??

Here are some shots from today, from me. Shot with a Mamiya c330F and Kodak Tmax 400. Medium format film.... No build in camera metering. No LCD. And No ipad. And no reshoot.

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8488/8239648797_7d9192d6c8_b.jpg

This is from last week.

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8479/8229933727_436fe598fe_b.jpg

I say again. You compose the shot in your head before you hit the shutter. Not after.

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watt100
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Dec 03, 2012 06:22 |  #7

TooManyShots wrote in post #15318765 (external link)
I say again. You compose the shot in your head before you hit the shutter. Not after.

sometimes easier said than done !




  
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SkipD
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Dec 03, 2012 08:18 |  #8

TooManyShots wrote in post #15318765 (external link)
I say again. You compose the shot in your head before you hit the shutter. Not after.

I agree with that. It's also the very reason that I use zoom lenses these days. I tend to find a position for my camera that will provide the desired perspective in my image (note that you can SEE the perspective in the scene without even putting the camera up to your face) and then choose a focal length to frame the scene the way I envision the image in my head. That way, I minimize the cropping needed in post-processing.


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airfrogusmc
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Dec 03, 2012 08:43 |  #9

Look for visual elements like repeating shapes, leading lines, texture and other visual elements but make sure they in some way relate to the subject.
Theres were all shot with either the 35L or Leica MM and 35 lux all 35 F/L on FF
Heres one I shot with the 35L and the guy sitting at the bar mimics the painting on the wall behind him.

IMAGE: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/airfrogusmc/IMG_6350BW.jpg

More repeating shapes MM and 35 Lux
IMAGE: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/airfrogusmc/L1002769.jpg

Look for classic triangular compositions. See Di Vinci and also use depth see the triangle in this image? The line created from the dog to the lady looking at the dog to the person in the background and then back to the dog. Leica MM and 35 lux
IMAGE: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/airfrogusmc/L1002748.jpg

Don't be afraid to use the edge of the frame. MM & 35 lux
IMAGE: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/airfrogusmc/L1002147.jpg

IMAGE: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/airfrogusmc/L1002158.jpg

Look for the moment when everything comes together MM & 35 lux
IMAGE: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/airfrogusmc/L1000716.jpg

Leading lines the line leads you away and then back the subjects face also triangular comp/
IMAGE: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/airfrogusmc/L1003291.jpg

More leading lines this one obvious
IMAGE: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/airfrogusmc/IMG_0095.jpg

I, unlike Skip prefer to work with one lens fixed F/L all the time and the same lens. This helps me see everything around me from the F/L and the perspective before I even put hte camera to my eye. Winogrand got so good at it he could see what the camera was seeing without putting it to his eye. Kinda like a trick sharp shooter being able to shoot things like coins outta the air without aiming. But one way is not better than other in general its only the way that works best for you. There are no formulas or easy roads. It takes time and practice no matter how you approach it to do it really well consistently.



  
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TooManyShots
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Dec 03, 2012 10:01 |  #10
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Here is I thought was an easy shot.

This shot with a medium format film body with Kodak Tmax 400.

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8060/8241867674_9acb7474b2_b.jpg


When I saw the man drawing, several things came to my mind. The sun was at my back. I knew I have to make sure I am not shooting at the sun. Second, I knew I want to capture the man drawing her and her looking at him, and showing the picture what he was drawing. After all, there is no point in showing the man drawing without showing him what he was drawing. I knew I have to shoot at his back. One thing I didn't anticipate was her companion sitting there. It made the DOF a bit tricky to work with. I believe I shot this with F5.6 with a 65mm lens. 65mm on a medium format 6x6 is equivalent to 35mm. Once I am in position, I pretended I was shooting something else and slowly turn my body towards them. So, I looked like I was like another other tourist there. I spent about 30s to nail the focus. It is easier when the subjects weren't moving, sitting down. It was still a challenge since this was shot with film, one shot deal.

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airfrogusmc
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Dec 03, 2012 14:17 |  #11

To bad the guy in the foreground didn't cross his legs like the statue.




  
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TooManyShots
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Dec 03, 2012 14:31 |  #12
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airfrogusmc wrote in post #15321186 (external link)
To bad the guy in the foreground didn't cross his legs like the statue.


Hehehe...that would be "cool" though....:)


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Dan ­ Marchant
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Dec 03, 2012 17:55 |  #13

Earwax69 wrote in post #15317918 (external link)
I bet good photographers take a lot of time, carefully planning every details of the picture. Taking photos after photos to make sure everything is perfect.

Care to share some of your tricks?

The key for me is to constantly be aware of your surroundings - look at who/what is coming towards you, think about where they will be in a moments time and position yourself to get the right shot.

Here is an example....
I was standing on the street corner at a crossroads, looking up and down the roads. I saw this guy riding in the middle of the road, which told me he would be turning right (directly in front of me). I lined up the shot in advance and took three shots (single shots, not burst) as he turned. One was too far away, one was blocked by a car and this was the third, which basically what I envisioned.

IMAGE: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7QkeM977d2Q/ULKzDCiaQTI/AAAAAAAAFAo/Fh0mcdYs9vA/s640/DM-6730.jpg

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FlyingPhotog
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Dec 03, 2012 17:57 |  #14

airfrogusmc wrote in post #15319798 (external link)
Look for visual elements like repeating shapes, leading lines, texture and other visual elements but make sure they in some way relate to the subject.
Theres were all shot with either the 35L or Leica MM and 35 lux all 35 F/L on FF
Heres one I shot with the 35L and the guy sitting at the bar mimics the painting on the wall behind him.
QUOTED IMAGE


Love This!!!


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airfrogusmc
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Dec 03, 2012 17:58 |  #15

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #15322123 (external link)
Love This!!!

Thanks Jay...




  
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Tweeking your composition on the field... any tricks? (for 35f1.4)
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