Just got new T4i and it's my first SLR. Looking for some advice on a few things.

gonzogolf wrote in post #15334395
Unless you are on a tripod doing landscape work, please wean yourself off of using live view. your camera was designed to be used by looking in the viewfinder.

Can I still see the histogram in the eye viewfinder to tell if my exposure is correct?.

cc1995 wrote in post #15334372
Yeah...I already own Photoshop Extended CS4 since I work in advertising and do some design work. It's good to know that I will need to do some post shot stuff to my images after to make them pop. I might have thought there was something wrong with my pictures not popping had i not known that the point and shoot cameras emphasize this in the images as opposed to the more natural look of the DSLR's.

Lots of great information. Thanks.

DPP is great for the really minimalist type of processing. Just sharpen, adjust contract (adjust exposure and WB if your shooting RAW) and save to JPEG.

If you need to do other stuff (with layers and cloning areas out and actually editing the picture then Photoshop is what you need.

cc1995 wrote in post #15334402
Also, do you guys advise me to just get a lense protector like the Tiffen UV protector that I got for my EF 50mm f/1.4 USM for my other two kit lenses? or show I get a hood for them? I think I read that I should atleast have a lense protector on all my lenses in case of a scratch or drop it will protect my actual camera lense. I imagine I can't just switch out the Tiffen lense I have and put it on the other two lenses I have? I probably need a different size for each one. Any recommendations for just a normal protector that doesn't alter my image?

I think most (including me) on here will say use lens protectors if your in the desert. Lens hood the rest of the time.

cc1995 wrote in post #15334416
Can I still see the histogram in the eye viewfinder to tell if my exposure is correct?.

Only after the shot.

cc1995 wrote in post #15334416
Can I still see the histogram in the eye viewfinder to tell if my exposure is correct?.

No. But you can see it in your review screen to confirm that you are getting the correct exposure after the fact, that lets you understand if you're meter is being fooled by circumstance. As good as the metering system is for these cameras they can still be fooled as they have no idea what you are pointing them at. If a subject is overwhelmingly white or bright, or black or dark the meter will be fooled as its based on middle tone/gray reflectivity. Looking at the histogram will confirm where you are and how to get where you need to be.

WaltA wrote in post #15334435
I think most (including me) on here will say use lens protectors if your in the desert. Lens hood the rest of the time.

Absolutley +1 on this.

The hood will provide physical barrier protection for your front element, and it will also enhance your images by minimizing flare and glare. When not using the camera just put the cap back on. And if it was a very inexpensive filter you got it will likely just degrade your images.

sapearl wrote in post #15334462
Absolutley +1 on this.

The hood will provide physical barrier protection for your front element, and it will also enhance your images by minimizing flare and glare. When not using the camera just put the cap back on. And if it was a very inexpensive filter you got it will likely just degrade your images.

I thought a hood would make my pictures dark for some reason. For instance if I was shooting something in a wide aperture to allow more light into the camera that the hood would suppress the light getting into the lense. Is there a particular type of hood or size I should look for. I plan on using my 50mm f/1.4 USM to practice on with my son for some portraits. I know this lense doesn't have image stabilization on it and I hope this doesn't ruin my pictures from me being too shakey with it...it's just that I hear the 50MM f/1.4 gives such a better/sharper picture for portraits compared to the 18-55 IS II lense..probably because it's a prime lense.

cc1995 wrote in post #15334538
I thought a hood would make my pictures dark for some reason. For instance if I was shooting something in a wide aperture to allow more light into the camera that the hood would suppress the light getting into the lense. Is there a particular type of hood or size I should look for. I plan on using my 50mm f/1.4 USM to practice on with my son for some portraits. I know this lense doesn't have image stabilization on it and I hope this doesn't ruin my pictures from me being too shakey with it...it's just that I hear the 50MM f/1.4 gives such a better/sharper picture for portraits compared to the 18-55 IS II lense..probably because it's a prime lense.

There are specific Canon hoods designed for each lens type. Wide angle needs a different hood than zoom.

http://www.amazon.ca …50mm-55-250/dp/B0041PO3DU
http://www.amazon.com …s-Hood-50mm/dp/B00013MSUQ - <- the one for your 50mm

In my field (landscape) hoods are important but you could be right that in a studio that would be less true. I'll let others speak to that.

cc1995 wrote in post #15334538
I thought a hood would make my pictures dark for some reason. For instance if I was shooting something in a wide aperture to allow more light into the camera that the hood would suppress the light getting into the lense. Is there a particular type of hood or size I should look for. I plan on using my 50mm f/1.4 USM to practice on with my son for some portraits. I know this lense doesn't have image stabilization on it and I hope this doesn't ruin my pictures from me being too shakey with it...it's just that I hear the 50MM f/1.4 gives such a better/sharper picture for portraits compared to the 18-55 IS II lense..probably because it's a prime lense.

No - the hood only suppresses extraneous light coming in from the side or above.

For the hood to make your pictures dark, it would have to be blocking part of the lens. If you get the wrong kind of hood it will block part of it. You will see that as corner vignetting. Walt provided some good advice in selecting the proper hood. Following his suggestion and you should get the right one.

If your pictures are dark it's because you are using the wrong exposure settings and causing your shots to be underexposed (too dark).

This goes back to the concept of understanding the basics of exposure. Images can be lightened by changing aperture, shutter speed and/or ISO. From the nature of your questions I would suggest you first use the automatic modes of your camera in concert with the instruction manual. This will provide you with some good cause and effect exercises. You will see what darkens and lightens images as you change the settings .

cc1995 wrote in post #15334538
I thought a hood would make my pictures dark for some reason. For instance if I was shooting something in a wide aperture to allow more light into the camera that the hood would suppress the light getting into the lense. Is there a particular type of hood or size I should look for. I plan on using my 50mm f/1.4 USM to practice on with my son for some portraits. I know this lense doesn't have image stabilization on it and I hope this doesn't ruin my pictures from me being too shakey with it...it's just that I hear the 50MM f/1.4 gives such a better/sharper picture for portraits compared to the 18-55 IS II lense..probably because it's a prime lense.

For this concern, a good solid tripod and remote shutter release will help a lot.

cc1995 wrote in post #15334538
.........I plan on using my 50mm f/1.4 USM to practice on with my son for some portraits. I know this lense doesn't have image stabilization on it and I hope this doesn't ruin my pictures from me being too shakey with it...it's just that I hear the 50MM f/1.4 gives such a better/sharper picture for portraits compared to the 18-55 IS II lense..probably because it's a prime lense.

The lack of IS will not cause you to ruin any pictures unless you use a shutter speed that is too slow. Select bright areas for practice that will allow you to use shutter speeds high enough to eliminate camera shake - at least 1/125 sec - or increase your ISO enough to allow that if you are in a dim area.

Not all of my lenses have IS either - you just have to develop good shooting technique. It takes practice and you won't be successful with everything over night. And just because a lens is Prime does not automatically make it sharper, although certainly many are.

gonzogolf wrote in post #15334395
Unless you are on a tripod doing landscape work, please wean yourself off of using live view. your camera was designed to be used by looking in the viewfinder.

The fact that live view is there as an option, indicates that it's designed for that as well.

It's up to the user to decide which they prefer.

romanv wrote in post #15338458
The fact that live view is there as an option, indicates that it's designed for that as well.

It's up to the user to decide which they prefer.

That's true, but constant use of live view can lead to (drastically) reduced battery life and in rare cases, overheating, which can lead to hot pixels. Using the viewfinder primarily will extend your battery life, but this is by far not the only benefit.

Granted, there are times when you may need to use Live View (such as working alone with an articulating screen, or when using an ND filter) but I don't believe either are the case.

Just because a tool is available doesn't make it the best one in the bag. You can, in some cases use a flathead screwdriver to screw in a Phillip's head screw, but that doesn't make it the right choice.

Yeah true, I guess the milage with that varies between camera models.

I shoot with 600D, liveview and a loupe 99% of the time, and yes it does go through batteries quicker by vritue of running more things... But it's a negligable difference as it's very rare that I ever have to change a battery over the course of a day.
I've never had issues with overheating or dead pixels, even with filming for extended periods.

I would wager the 650D is comparable or better, in this regard.

Using Liveview/Loupe with Magic Lantern / Zebras gives me precise exposure information that you cannot obtain any other way which isnt guesstimating by comparison.
Histograms are great, but having zebras on screen lets you know exactly what's blowing out or not. Sometimes you have to make a compromise as to whether you are going to prioritise preserving highlights or shadows for post processing, and a histogram doesnt show you exactly which areas of the pic will end up blown out or not. (Although it can be somewhat obvious)

Or alternatively, when shooting with a very narrow depth of field you can use digital zoom to get your focus bang on, that you (well, I at least) cannot discern as consistently with my eye through the view finder.

I agree with what you're saying, but from the opposite angle... Just because the mirror is there, doesnt mean that it's the best or only method to use.

The only time I find the mirror is superior, is for action/burst shots where you want to catch a quick glimpse of where the camera is pointing in between shots.

There's definitely times when Live View is necessary and useful (take, for example, filming video on a 5D2). I didn't mean to imply it was never the right tool, sorry if it came across like that.