Shedding light on wide angle polarizing/polarising filters

Pardon the pun in my thread title. BTW, the 2 different spellings are there for people who might use either one in their search, and shall be annoyingly spattered through this thread as well.

Well after doing a lot of surfing and gleaning information from many helpful people on POTN, I think I can now give back this info in one thread. Hopefully this will reduce the confusion for the next person who tries to research this subject.

So, you've purchased an ultra wide angle lens for your DSLR and you would like to buy a polarizing filter for it? Unless you've been down this path before, the many brands and models are extremely confusing. The questions of whether or not to go with warming, Kaesseman, slim, circular, linear, graduated... etc etc just makes it worse.

The major thing that everyone seems to be in agreement with, is that you should buy a good quality filter. "Don't put a $10 piece of junk on your several hundred (or thousand) dollar lens." The brands that I have read through many forums and reviews which have been recommended include B+W, Hoya, Heliopan and Kenko. I'm sure there are many others, but they seem to be mentioned by lots of people as being quite reliable.

The other agreed points are that with auto focus in digital cameras, you need to get a circular polariser; the linear polarisers can interfere with the autofocus. Also a filter with "multicoating" is a good idea, as these can be more effective in preventing lens flare (coupled with your lens hood of course).

The first big issue with ultra wide angle lenses and polarisers (possibly other filters too, but I did not research them in any detail) is the possibility of vignetting. From my understanding, this is because the lens is so wide, it perceives the shadow of the edge of the filter. (I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm way off base.) This is where the first debate begins: how wide a lens can we use a polariser on before this problem begins to occur? ie: Which lenses cause this concern; 10-22mm... or maybe the 12-24 lenses? AND does having different lens factors (ie 5D full frame vs the Rebel's 1.6) have a further effect on this issue? I don't know the answer, as there were many theories out there. Hopefully someone will test this theory. (or they already have and I just couldn't find them!)

The next part of the debate is whether or not a "slim" filter design is required. These are filters that are lower in profile, thus creating less of a "lip" out from your lens- and hopefully less vignette. They are generally more expensive than their "regular" counterparts.

Many of the slim filters out there have no front thread, which means you cannot stack lenses (which is debatably not neccessary anyway... more about that later) and more frustratingly, (for me anyway) you can't attach your normal clip-on lens cap. All of the filters with the no-front-thread-design that I looked at, provided you with a plastic slip-on cap. Reportedly, they don't stay on very well (I remember my G2 had one and it was constantly falling off- but it also had a safety cord) and are easy to lose. Many people have spoken very favourably of these filters and were able to tolerate the lens cap issue. One possible solution, is to have a lens cap saving device attached- basically a little plastic "dot" that sticks to the lens cap and then is attached to the lens via elastic. I've got one on my kit lens; very cheap to buy.
http://www.amazon.com …8612006?v=glanc​e&n=502394

Just to give a comparison here (all filters quoted in 77mm):
The B+W 77mm Circular Polarizer (MRC) Multi-Resistant Coating Glass Filter is $144.95 at B&H.
The B+W 77mm Circular Polarizer (MRC) Multi-Resistant Coating Glass Filter Slim is $164.95.

Another filter type that was thrown into my selection pile, just to create more confusion, was the Kaesemann. As per B+W's blurb: "Kaesemann ("encased") filters are completely edge-sealed for maximum durability under extreme climatic conditions." Some of the other filter manufacturers (Heliopan for example) also make Kaesemann versions of their filters. One of the generous people on here suggested to me that it was a bit of overkill purchasing this for normal landscape/travel photography and I agreed that the extra cost wasn't worth it to me. Others might find the extra protection useful. FYI:
The B+W 77mm Kaesemann Circular Polarizer Glass Filter is $164.95 at B&H; and
The B+W 77mm Kaesemann Circular Polarizer Glass Filter Slim is $174.95.

Two other options I was able to find, was the "Moose" filter. http://www.moosepeters​on.com/gear/moosefilte​r.html (also available on other vendors' sites) and the Hoya or Kenko Pro 1 filters.

The Moose filter (made by Hoya for a nature photographer) is a combined "warming" filter and polariser which has a front thread. The disadvantage is that if you don't want the warming effect, you can't separate it from the polariser. (For an explanation on "warming", check out the link above.) The other thing I could not find any literature on, was whether or not this filter is multicoated. If it is, then it could be a decent buy, because it "works on any lens up to 17mm and WILL NOT VIGNETTE regardless of which f/stop is used!" (quote from his site). Ah!- only 17mm. This filter still remains a bit of a mystery to me. The creator raves about it (as he would of course), but uses a Nikon D2X (1.5 crop factor) and lists the Nikon 12-24 as one of his lenses. Maybe he doesn't use his polariser below 17mm. Anyway, I wasn't able to find many reviews out there about his filters, but at $118.50 from B&H or $99 direct from his site, they're worth investigating further. As I had to make a decision tonight and make my purchase, I left it up to others to "run with the ball" if they're interested.

Now, onto the Hoya & Kenko Pro 1's...
These two are both slim filters, but they also have a front thread! condyk suggested the Kenko to me as he (and from many other resources out there online) believes that Kenko and Hoya are one and the same... and Kenko is cheaper. Unfortunately for those of us in the US of A, it seems that the Kenko Pro 1 is marketed here as "Hoya Pro 1" and marked up considerably. As far as I was able to figure out, the same filter is marketed in the UK, Hong Kong and Australia as "Kenko Pro 1". This info could be wrong, but all evidence I've been able to find points in this direction. FYI:
The Hoya 77mm Circular Polarizing Pro 1 Digital Multi-Coated Glass Filter is $194.95 at B&H.
I then found the Kenko on the link below for $108.95AU (approx $80USD):
http://cgi.ebay.com.au …egoryZ15219QQcm​dZViewItem

Again, I cannot categorically say that these are the same filter, but if they are, then perhaps people with more time and patience than me could ship them over. Alternatively, if you live somewhere where the Kenko is available, lucky you! I read many favourable comments about the Hoya Pro 1, so taking everything above into account and unable to find someone who had actually tested the Tokina 12-24 with a normal sized polarising filter, I chose that one. FYI, I was able to get it from:
http://www.2filter.com​/hoya/hoya_pro1_digita​l.html for $156.86 (normally $194.63). One of the forums I was browsing through pointed out you need to actually click on "order" to reflect any discounts they might have at that moment.

I was able to find one person who tried a normal sized UV filter on his 12-24, and apparently didn't experience too much of a problem with vignetting.
http://www.fredmiranda​.com/forum/topic2/3253​96/0#2756574
Still not 100% convinced, I still bought the Pro 1. I would love to hear about peoples' actual experiences with any of the ultra wide angle lenses and these filters. The easiest thing of course, would be to walk into a shop and try this out, but none of the shops in my area stock anything!

One final note, I was really interested in ND graduated filters and started looking into those as a possibility. A pro pointed out to me that with digital, the only thing you can't duplicate in Photoshop (or similar software) is polarising. I found a fantastic tutorial for duplicating the ND graduated effect in Photoshop here:
http://www.fredmiranda​.com/article_2/ I've been experimenting with it and it's fantastic! Many different effects, normally achieved through a filter (like warming for example) can be achieved through software- so save your dough for a good polariser!

Hopefully this dribble helps someone. I apologise if any of this is incorrect; I am by no means a professional and my intentions are only to prevent someone from going through the confusing headache I did. Maybe if there's anything to add or amend here, it could be made a "sticky" down the track; especially when some people have provided feedback of their own personal experiences. There are other variations on the examples of basic polarisers I mentioned and they can be much more expensive. I just focussed on the ones under $200 and went from there.

Thanks for reading and happy shooting!

wow, it makes for an interesting read. That must have taken some time to write. To bad you was not a month earlier writing this article as it would have saved myself a lot of confussion. I also went for the Hoya Pro 1. $145 on Ebay.

Interesting about the graduated filters as this is the next step I am looking to go. For me personally I would rather use the ND grad filter and get a good looking original picture off the camera rather than having to re-create something in PS.

Great stuff Mustard! This should be a sticky

keenasmustard wrote:
FYI, I was able to get it from:
http://www.2filter.com​/hoya/hoya_pro1_digita​l.html for $156.86 (normally $194.63).

Good choice and that's the place I've bought mine also. Excellent business to deal with.

Another thing to note is according to the owner at www.2filter.com the glass from Japan is superior to the ones that use glass from China. All mine are made in Japan.

Hmmm, I wonder if that is the difference between the Hoya and Kenko.

Good to hear another favourable recommendation for 2filter. I'm really worried that I won't get it before I go away on my trip next Wednesday. Ordered it last night with UPS 2 day Air, so surely it'll be OK. It's always a bit scary buying from a new company for the first time.

fatclay: I definately see the other side of using the grad filter from the start. I'll save a bit of money in the early days and see how good I get at Photoshopping!

Excellent write-up Mustard. I've made this sticky, though it may eventually make it inside another FAQ-type thread eventually.


As to the slim-type I have to say that I really hate the ones that don't have front threads. I like to be able to stack, and though this can be worked around it can be a pain without threads. But I REALLY hate not being able to put a lens cap on! Argh!

Speaking of lens caps I love the one on my Tamron 28-75 since it has outside and inside "grabs" for installing and removing it. The inside ones mean that you can leave the lens hood on and reach in to remove the lens cap. Check them out at B&H. At $7-9 each I bought one for each of my lenses.


Another thing to remember with buying filters is that you can buy one size - large - and use step-up rings to fit it to smaller lenses. Buy one 77mm polarizer and use $7 step-up rings to fit it to your 67mm and 62mm lenses. But this is a major problem since you will no longer be able to fit the hood on! So if you use step-up rings be sure to bring a hat (or something) to shield the front of the lens to reduce glare and flare.

This reminds me about the *one* thing I like about my slim, thread-less CPL is that it's the knurling for turning it is on the same plane as the glass, not on the side of the filter like most CPLs. This means that I can leave the hood on and reach inside the hood and use a fingertip to turn the CPL. OK, this isn't a big deal but it is a little nice to be able to leave the hood on at all times.


Lastly, as to quality, and multi-coating, I'll repost this blurb I wrote up some time ago. I am a strong believer in multi-coated filters.


The reasons to buy good filters are pretty much the same as the reasons to buy good glass:

Good filters are neutral in color and won't add a color cast to your picture.

Good filters are well-shaped or more perfectly flat. They won't add distortions to your pictures.

Good filters have coatings that will allow more light to pass through, and/or reduce reflections. They will greatly lessen the chances of flare or glare or reflections in your final image. (Note, look for Multi-Coated lenses. Considering the same brand and size the more money you pay just about always goes toward the coatings, and every coating has a purpose. All of those purposes are geared towards lessening the bad light and increasing the quality of good light that hits your sensor/film.)

Good filters have better things about their build. Perhaps thicker frames, perhaps better threads, better knurling, perhaps better anti-reflective paint. (I recently had to get a step-up ring and B&H and Adorama were out of the $7 General Brand rings I normally buy. I went local and had to buy a $20 B&W ring. It was quite a difference from the Generals in all the above points.)

Good filters clean more easily. Last week I spent an hour cleaning 4 Hoya lenses, cursing and swearing the whole time because I could not get them clean. I tried 3 different cleaning solutions, 2 different wipes, 2 different microfiber cloths. I went to the camera store and bought $37 worth of cleaning supplies - all different - in order to find the best way to clean my lenses and filter. Well today I saw a message stating that Hoyas are notoriously difficult to clean, and B&W is better. I don't know if that's completely true, yet, but my next filter will be a B&W.

In summary: The more you pay the better the coatings, the better the frame, the better the glass, the better the anti-reflective paint, the better the knurling, the better the light and less glare, flare, and reflections.

So buy the best you can afford.

Interesting writeup. I was, however, expecting a discussion on the uneven polarization effect that can occur on extreme wide-angles, not vignetting from the filter ring.

The solution that I've had best results with my Hoya filters is the brand sold at www.2filter.com: Formula MC - $3.87 also the the brand and especially the cloth thats sold in the Giottos Kit that B&H sells.

Thanks Scottes. I know I've only covered the tip of the iceberg and there are plenty of areas of what I've written that I still couldn't be certain of. I really hope people add their findings and experiences to this, so that as you mentioned, a FAQ could come out of it and make filter purchasing a tad easier.

Speaking of lens caps I love the one on my Tamron 28-75 since it has outside and inside "grabs" for installing and removing it. The inside ones mean that you can leave the lens hood on and reach in to remove the lens cap. Check them out at B&H. At $7-9 each I bought one for each of my lenses.

My Tokina came with a similar lens cap and I love it too! Never thought of buying an aftermarket one for my other lenses... I'll definately look into it. I'm also going to look into the stepup ring for my kit lens, as my other polariser is very "el cheapo".

This is definately a point I have not heard mentioned before. I look forward to trying the Hoya I've bought and seeing how that one works. If that issue, plus the difficulty in cleaning become to frustrating, I might look at selling it and trying out the B+W normal width filter and seeing how bad the vignette is. For this trip, I needed something NOW. Hopefully I'll be really happy with it and not need to change.

My glasses are exactly the same. My optometrist put a special anti-reflective coating on them and I'm convinced it's similar to what you speak of. They are great when they are clean, but I HAVE to have the right lens cloth to clean them with and if I get something greasy on them, I actually use my photographic lens cleaner and then they come up a treat. Without this combination, it's "smear city".

I read about this issue of smearing with Hoyas and was actually recommended by a tutor to go with B+W (that's before I got into the nitty gritty of everything). My preference would be to get the B+W MRC regular size, but I was so paranoid about vignette. If only B+W would bring out a front threaded slim filter- and still make it affordable.

There are few other features I didn't mention about the Hoya Pro 1, that I'll come back and go over when I've got a bit more time.

slin: this is an issue I am quite worried about and look forward to reporting back the experience I have with the Pro 1.
This explains a basic technique to minimise the problem:http://www.earthboundl​ight.com …-uneven-polarization.html
This one is interesting too and demonstrates the uneven effect in his photos:
http://www.anands.net/​faq/gnd.html
He talks about combining a ND gradiated filter to minimise the dramatic banding effect that can happen. Does anyone know if you can achieve the same results as he has, by using a polariser first and then applying the ND grad effect afterwards in Photoshop?

The solution that I've had best results with my Hoya filters is the brand sold at www.2filter.com:

Doh! I remember looking at that! I wish I'd bought it! I'll let you know if I have any joy with the generic one I already have.

I wouldn't even consider a non brand type cleaner. Call 'em back and get the stuff they sell.

Since I bought 4 filters on my order (don't ask how much) the owner included a bottle in my order. As for that he called me back cause he didn't have the Digital Pro1 in a 67mm and asked if it'd be alright to send me the Super HMC Pro 1 Cir Polarizer instead for the same price ... of course you know my answer to that.

LOL. You lucky so and so! I hope I can get that fluid where I'm going- there's no way I'd get it shipped on time now.

Okedoke. I'm delighted to report that my Hoya Pro1 Digital Polariser arrived today and... it doesn't vignette at 12mm on the Tokina 12-24. Woohoo! I'm still dying of curiosity over whether or not I could have got away with a regular sized filter instead of a slim.. but that will have to wait until I can visit a store that stocks them. Also, I haven't experienced any "banding" across the sky, that I've seen in various examples of polarisers on wide angle lenses. I'll wait for a completely cloudless day though and see if I can get it to happen.

Another thing which is promising is that I got a little smudge on the filter and it cleaned off easily with my microfiber cloth. Big smudges may be another kettle of fish, but I'm not going to deliberately test that theory until I'm armed with some good cleaning fluid!

I now see exactly what you mean about the knurling. The Hoya Pro1 has the normal knurling on the outside- however, it's still achievable to turn the filter with the hood on; more difficult, but doable. I experimented with both the Tokina 12-24 and the Canon 70-200. The Canon is more difficult, due to the deep lens hood. My husband found it relatively easy on both lenses, as his fingers are longer than mine. The bottom line though, is that the slim versions definately have that advantage with the clever knurling design.

keenasmustard ... nice combination of a Lens & Filter. How 'bout some sample shots taken a 12mm using the CP filter. Certainly a good thing to know its not vignetting.