Getting exposure right without stand alone meter.

I just watched a good youtube vid on getting the light right in a portrait setting using a stand alone meter, and I do not own one. He was using continuous light in a softbox to emulate a window, and did some outside shots as well.

Now, I believe I can get the proper exposures with continuous light by simply have a gray card and a sheet of white paper for setting up my custom white balance. Just take a pic of the white sheet of paper and set my custom white balance in camera from that. Then take a meter reading of the gray card at the subject face and then hit the exposure lock button and my metering should be good as long as the subject is in that spot. Whenever they change position just read the gray card again and re lock the exposure lock button.

Is this correct for continuos light shots, basically to emulate having a light meter?

If so, that great for using continuous and oustide shots with no flash.

But now, what is the best way to operate without a flash meter while using flash, inside and out? Will the gray card work as long as you are using Ettl? Could you just take a pic of the gray card with Ettl, lock the exposure and then flash exposure lock as well?

And am i right in assuming that when you are using manual flash and manual mode, with no meter, you are basically stuck chimping and checking the histogram?

I also love the ideas about just using your hand and adjust open a stop if it is Caucasian, or down a stop if it is darl skin, or even metring grass if outside.

I guess my reason for asking this is that I just don't have 200 bucks or more for a flash meter, and since it seems I can get by fine with a Gray card while using continuous light, I am hoping there is an easy way to meter for manual flash.

Would love to have your thoughts in general on metring flash without a flash meter and without ettl

You have it pretty much correct. You cant really meter ETTL flash as it doesnt necessarily repeat itself shot to shot, one its if weaknesses for production work in studio. It should be close but minor changes in the makeup of elements within the frame can fool ETTL. Manual flash will probably require some chimping. That is, you will have to dial in your flash power by taking a series of test shots until you get what you want.

If you are using continuous light, you can use the meter in your camera and a 18% gray card to get essentially the same readings that a handheld meter set up for incident readings can make.

If the lighting is from non-ETTL flash sources such as studio flash sources, however, the meter in your camera is totally useless.

If the lighting is from ETTL-controlled flash sources, no meter will do any good at all because the camera and ETTL-controlled flash units work together to control the exposure.

Thanks guys. I guess I already knew the situation, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some trickery somehow with a flash to get things right. I was reading after I posted this about the meter in your flash unit using guide number, and that's interesting stuff. but sounds like even more work than just chimping and using your histogram.

I guess I will start practicing getting comfortable with the histogram, and on my 5D2 I finally found where to turn my highlight alert on so that the lcd will flash black in blown out areas, which will be nice and helpful.

Now, any suggestions for a flash meter in the 100-125 range instead of the 200 range? Any workable meters in that range?

guitarjeff wrote in post #15375044
Now, any suggestions for a flash meter in the 100-125 range instead of the 200 range? Any workable meters in that range?

I highly recommend the Sekonic L-358 for anyone working with both continuous and flash lighting - especially when the two are mixed. While the "new" price may be a bit out of your budget, you may find one on the used market that's quite a bit closer. Regardless, it's worth the stretch.

guitarjeff wrote in post #15375044
Thanks guys. I guess I already knew the situation, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some trickery somehow with a flash to get things right. I was reading after I posted this about the meter in your flash unit using guide number, and that's interesting stuff. but sounds like even more work than just chimping and using your histogram.

I guess I will start practicing getting comfortable with the histogram, and on my 5D2 I finally found where to turn my highlight alert on so that the lcd will flash black in blown out areas, which will be nice and helpful.

Now, any suggestions for a flash meter in the 100-125 range instead of the 200 range? Any workable meters in that range?

The Shepherd/Polaris falls in that price range.

Interfit also makes an inexpensive flash meter.