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Thread started 31 Dec 2012 (Monday) 18:45
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7D Flash white balance question

 
Titus213
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Jan 01, 2013 14:31 |  #16

Sorry - they were too big so I had to take another route.

As shot with Flash WB on camera - 2 external flash units, both Canon EX:

IMAGE: http://www.norwoodphotos.com/photos/i-R57GNsR/0/L/i-R57GNsR-L.png

IMAGE: http://www.norwoodphotos.com/photos/i-3QVdHcC/0/XL/i-3QVdHcC-XL.png

This one is corrected with LR 4.3 Flash WB:

IMAGE: http://www.norwoodphotos.com/photos/i-RpFhrhv/0/L/i-RpFhrhv-L.png

And a side lesson learned - when using the 7D pop up to fire remotes it does indeed appear in the image, even when set not to fire for the image. The shadow seen around the bottom of the image is the hood on my 16-35/2.8.

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mnphotos
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Jan 01, 2013 16:38 |  #17

Titus213 wrote in post #15429445 (external link)
If I switch from Shot settings to Color Temp it changes the WB to 5200K and the picture cools way down.

Dropping back to the camera neutral setting, my normal, cools it down from 7350 to 7100.

Just an FYI, higher numbers are cooler, lower numbers are warmer.


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Jan 01, 2013 17:42 |  #18

mnphotos wrote in post #15432109 (external link)
Just an FYI, higher numbers are cooler, lower numbers are warmer.

Yup. But telling software that a shot was taken at a cooler colour temperature warms up the shot, which is what was meant. And vice versa, of course.




  
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Jan 01, 2013 17:49 |  #19

Titus213 wrote in post #15431674 (external link)
And a side lesson learned - when using the 7D pop up to fire remotes it does indeed appear in the image, even when set not to fire for the image.

Of course. It has to trigger the slaves. But it's pretty weak.


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Titus213
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Jan 01, 2013 18:43 |  #20

mnphotos wrote in post #15432109 (external link)
Just an FYI, higher numbers are cooler, lower numbers are warmer.

In post processing raising the WB temp warms the image. Lowering the number cools the image.


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Jan 01, 2013 18:45 |  #21

apersson850 wrote in post #15432373 (external link)
Of course. It has to trigger the slaves. But it's pretty weak.

Yes, it is weak. I just didn't expect quite so pronounce a shadow from it. I was in pretty close with these and that lens is rather large.


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Jan 01, 2013 18:46 |  #22

But to my problem - if you set your camera to WB = Flash, what color temp do you expect?


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Jan 01, 2013 19:34 as a reply to  @ Titus213's post |  #23

When a compatible Canon flash is on the camera, it will communicate the color temperature of the flash tube to the camera, and the camera will set itself accordingly. Provided it's either set to auto or flash WB.
But now you are using the built-in flash, obviously, to trigger slave flashes, but you have turned off the internal flash (as much as possible).

Makes me wonder if here's an issue with the wrong color temperature being recorded when the internal flash is commander only? Do you have any ability to re-shoot with the internal flash also contributing to the illumination? I understand that this will ruin the appearance of the image, but for a moment let's put that aside and just see what happens to the color temperature. Or using an external flash as the commander, in the camera's hot shoe.


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Titus213
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Jan 01, 2013 20:40 |  #24

apersson850 wrote in post #15432762 (external link)
When a compatible Canon flash is on the camera, it will communicate the color temperature of the flash tube to the camera, and the camera will set itself accordingly. Provided it's either set to auto or flash WB.
But now you are using the built-in flash, obviously, to trigger slave flashes, but you have turned off the internal flash (as much as possible).

Makes me wonder if here's an issue with the wrong color temperature being recorded when the internal flash is commander only? Do you have any ability to re-shoot with the internal flash also contributing to the illumination? I understand that this will ruin the appearance of the image, but for a moment let's put that aside and just see what happens to the color temperature. Or using an external flash as the commander, in the camera's hot shoe.

Good idea. I just took three images allowing the pop up to trigger two EX flash units and contribute to the image. All three, when brought into LR 4.3, show an 'As Shot' WB of 7350K. Putting that back to Daylight or Flash brings the WB down to 5500K.

I thought our light oak cabinets might be impacting the color but I shot a couple without them in the scene and the WB 'As Shot' is still 7350K.


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Jan 01, 2013 20:50 |  #25

Next step - I took the 430EX flash, mounted it on the camera and took a shot. Camera settings unchanged, WB = Flash.

The 430EX gave me a WB temp of 7200.

Next I did the same with the 550EX flash and got a WB Temp of 6400.

Unlike the shots combining the flash, these look pretty good temp wise.

One last test result to add - I shot the same scene with just the onboard pop-up. The WB temp is 7350.

Shooting the same scene with no flash and WB = Flash gives a WB temp of 6400.


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Hitthespot
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Jan 01, 2013 21:12 as a reply to  @ Titus213's post |  #26

You would think regardless of flash the camera would read the scene and set the white balance accordingly. Of course I don't get into the technical operations of the camera usually. I do know that I have never been very impressed with Canons Flash Performance. I shot a wedding two weeks ago and my white balance and Flash exposure was all over the place on everyshot. FORTUNATELY, I shot in Raw. Identical shots would be metered, or at the least flashed differently in some cases. I have read that Nikon is light years ahead of Canon in Flash photography and I believe it's entirely possible.. However I usually only shoot Wildlife and Scenery so metering available light is all I"m conerned with most of the time. AND that may be part of my problem. lol


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Jan 01, 2013 21:15 |  #27

Titus213 wrote in post #15432600 (external link)
Yes, it is weak. I just didn't expect quite so pronounce a shadow from it. I was in pretty close with these and that lens is rather large.

Nikon has a panel that goes over their pop-up flashes and filters out most of the visible light. It works really well, but for close-up work I had to add a layer of white card (thickness of a business card) to fully eliminate light from the pop-up.

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …_SG_3IR_IR_Pane​l_for.html (external link)

It would interfere with the micro switch in the hotshoe of Canon cameras, but maybe it can be modified to work.

I originally bought mine so that I could use my Sekonic light meter while using Nikon Creative Lighting System (CLS), which is pretty much the same as the Canon system you are using.


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Jan 01, 2013 21:15 |  #28

I keep finding more ways to check this. If I set my WB on the camera at Daylight and use a flash it registers as a temp of 5350 with a tint of +10.


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Jan 01, 2013 21:37 |  #29

Hitthespot wrote in post #15433102 (external link)
You would think regardless of flash the camera would read the scene and set the white balance accordingly. Of course I don't get into the technical operations of the camera usually. I do know that I have never been very impressed with Canons Flash Performance. I shot a wedding two weeks ago and my white balance and Flash exposure was all over the place on everyshot. FORTUNATELY, I shot in Raw. Identical shots would be metered, or at the least flashed differently in some cases. I have read that Nikon is light years ahead of Canon in Flash photography and I believe it's entirely possible.. However I usually only shoot Wildlife and Scenery so metering available light is all I"m conerned with most of the time. AND that may be part of my problem. lol

You wedding issue is why I don't use AWB. I've always had much better results with Flash when using flash. Now I'm not so sure. Fortunately for me I don't do weddings any more but I don't recall having these issues. When shooting the formals I always used manual, custom WB, etc. and that worked fine.

I'm afraid Canon is trying to make the cameras too smart for us.

I may investigate going back to the old firmware version just for a test.


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Hitthespot
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Jan 01, 2013 21:59 as a reply to  @ Titus213's post |  #30

Well white balance was the least of my worries because i always adjust tweek when post processing anyway. What bothers me is the flash never seems to meter the same even on identical scenes. Ill have one close to normal and one very dark shot 10 seconds apart. I know there can be numerous reasons for this. However you cant always stop the action when doing events and say can you walk back down the isle again. I didn't quite get that shot . Its 2 stops underexposed. I guess my point is my experience with the 7d tells me that flash photography with it is inconsistent.


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7D Flash white balance question
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